I'm starting the process of procuring replacement parts for my W124.

Is the metal support piece that runs across the top of the headlights/radiator area a bolt on piece or a weld in piece?

A local junkyard has a W124 300E that has a good piece. They asked me where I wanted it cut. I have to show them where but then thought if its a bolt-on piece then I don't have to have them cut anything...

Thoughts?

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82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
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91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k

124 upper support is welded
210 upper support is bolted

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2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
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They're welded in for sure on the 123. 124 I'm not sure about.

If it were bolt in I doubt they would cut it out.....although you may well be able to adapt it to being bolt in by making a lap then bolting it together.

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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I cut them out of the '85 and the '83 that I got my engine and transmission (respectively) out of. Easy enough to take a small piece of angle and weld a lap joint so you can remove and replace when needed. You can use Rivnuts of simply weld nuts to the existing core support so you can bolt the top bar back in place. Making that piece removable makes service in that area MUCH simpler and, of course, aids in engine removal. I've done several including the one in Mutt the Race Truck.

Remember that if you lack welding gear you can take the top bar to someone and have the lap joint welded in place for you. A tip - most muffler shops can do light-duty welding like this for cheap. It's possible to fish the nuts in when you reinstall the top bar but it's simpler if the nuts are held in place with a tack weld. Also, you can check with a local sheet metal shop and see if they have a Rivnut tool - that works, too.

Dan

x2 on rivnuts-you don't need the tool, you can just tighten a bolt & washers when you're in a pinch(or cheap).

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I got fancy and bought the Rivnut tool - I was building Mutt and was going to be doing a LOT of that kind of stuff. Yes, you can pull them with a screw and nut but I've had mixed results (probably an issue with the operator). Fastenal has Marson Rivnuts (they call them something else) so if you don't find them elsewhere they'll have them. Also cheaper on line if you don't mind waiting a bit.

Dan

W201 turbodiesel is also bolted on, all other 190's I've seen are welded.

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1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

It is welded in. I would think it would be fairly straight forward to make it a bolt in piece.

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Jim

Are they quoting you for the entire rad support? If so, have then cut across the car just behind the rad ( across the frame rails ) this way you have everything from rad forward to bumper. Anywhere else they cut is going to leave them with unsaleable parts as virtually no one is going to buy a front frame section without a core support.

Be sure to bring a grease pencil and make it your self so there is no question of what you are getting. Also be sure to have them save all hardware they take off.

Before you cut the parts off your car, rough pull things back into place. This way reusable sections are pulled back in to position.