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  #31  
Old 11-25-2015, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redpeople View Post
Well, the deed is done. Oil changed with Rotella T6 5w-40. When I went to change the o-rings, I thought "there's no o rings on here, just these hard washers". Turns out they were very hard, very square o-rings. Used an xacto knife to carve them out. On to the next project.
Excellent!

I'm glad you tuned out the naysayers and went with the T6. I love it so much I use it year round.

It has been my experience with most of the diesel Mercedes I serviced that people forget about or neglect those O rings. They are very important and as you see they get rock hard and won't seal.

I check my oil every two weeks. I don't use more than a quarter quart in 3k miles. I'd suggest you get your engine full to the full mark on the dipstick and check it every few days. If it doesn't change, check it every two weeks.

It's always said that these engine burn their sump capacity down to half way on the dipstick and then consumption either stops or gets significantly less. If you notice this, don't be alarmed. Make sure it stops using at the half way mark and then don't be alarmed.

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  #32  
Old 11-25-2015, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redpeople View Post
Got the Mann filter today. I'll pick up the oil tomorrow. I need to track down the o-rings you mentioned. I saw those in a video as well.

I'm guessing I probably won't put more than 3-4 k miles on it each year, although I guess I won't know until I get the odometer fixed. ��
Mine works 20% of the time, I keep track of fill-ups 😕. Will try to repair it this winter following odo fix

Good advice on the oil Manny and on the O rings Jay. Just did my last oil change till spring.. My rust free ride is going to the garage for winter this week, just cant bear driving stinkerbell around all the salt they spread around here..
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  #33  
Old 11-25-2015, 09:16 PM
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Stinkerbell is a GREAT name for one of these old cars ...
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  #34  
Old 11-26-2015, 05:03 AM
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Ignorance is a disease
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fahrvergnugen View Post
This is incorrect; I've had leaks, or at least Bigger ones once I made the switch. Go back to conventional oil, and the problem is gone. Many of these folks echo my experience. leaks!...synthetic to conventional at high mileage | Passenger Car Motor Oil (PCMO) - Gasoline Cars/Pickups/Vans/SUVs | Bob Is The Oil Guy

The reason? The synthetic motor oil molecule is smaller, making it both more resilient to heat and also more likely to creep out of where it should be. The moral of the story is, don't go to synthetic until you've repaired any and all leaks. It IS a superior oil by all other reckonings.
This, and this alone goes to show that's not true.
Full Synthetic Motor Oil

A full synthetic oil designed specifically for high mileage engines with leaks and consumption issues. Pennzoil is HIGHLY respected, and Ultra is one of (if not) the best oil you can buy off the shelf. They would not produce and sell an oil that made leaks worse... Your base argument, if correct, would suggest this oil is illogical and Pennzoil would not produce it. Well, they do and it's well liked.

Myths about synthetic have been perpetuated from the 70s-80s when synthetic was up and coming. People say you can't mix synthetic and conventional. They say you can't use synthetic if the engine has had conventional all its life. They say you can't switch back and forth from synthetic and conventional. They say synthetic will cause leaks on an old engine. NONE of those are true. It's up to us to educate ourselves and stop continuing to repeat myths that have been proven false over and over again.
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  #35  
Old 11-26-2015, 11:13 AM
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One of the properties of synthetics is their ability to better handle blow-by (higher resistance to vaporization). In these older diesels blow-by is a real problem and can cause dino juice to breakdown earlier. This breakdown can coke rings in severe cases. With proper filtration systems the synthetics seem to hold up better.

In extreme cold the synthetics multi-weights (ie: 0W-20, 0W-30, 0W-40, etc) are really superior to dino juice for start ups. It's easier to spin the crank through the stuff, but the real benefit comes from improved cold weather flow. The rotating parts get the oil sooner, and that decreases wear & tear.

I don't use dino juice in all my engines, but in my 'must start' (I'm on ER call) car I use synth oil (BTW - it's a gas jeep, not a diesel). I try to keep the oil & block heated in any diesel that I think I'll need during the winter. A nice heated garage and really big batteries help too.
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  #36  
Old 11-26-2015, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mannys9130 View Post
This, and this alone goes to show that's not true.
Full Synthetic Motor Oil

A full synthetic oil designed specifically for high mileage engines with leaks and consumption issues. Pennzoil is HIGHLY respected, and Ultra is one of (if not) the best oil you can buy off the shelf. They would not produce and sell an oil that made leaks worse... Your base argument, if correct, would suggest this oil is illogical and Pennzoil would not produce it. Well, they do and it's well liked.

Myths about synthetic have been perpetuated from the 70s-80s when synthetic was up and coming. People say you can't mix synthetic and conventional. They say you can't use synthetic if the engine has had conventional all its life. They say you can't switch back and forth from synthetic and conventional. They say synthetic will cause leaks on an old engine. NONE of those are true. It's up to us to educate ourselves and stop continuing to repeat myths that have been proven false over and over again.
Actually that little promotional blurb you linked does not apply to our old diesels at all. A careful read reveals it is for engines originally designed for synthetic as they get some miles on them.

As for what happened in the seventies, what kind of car were you driving then?
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  #37  
Old 11-26-2015, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mannys9130 View Post
This, and this alone goes to show that's not true.
Full Synthetic Motor Oil
No, it doesn't. It shows that it works well in cars that were designed for synthetic motor oil, as Mr. Walgamuth has offered. From your link, under Benefits... "1. Conditions Seals on Older Engines: Less oil burn off than high mileage motor oils made from crude oil1. Specifically formulated to reduce leaks and oil consumption in older vehicles"

Notice the number on the first sentence, meaning they have a study to support their claim. Also notice that this is true of ANY synthetic, Not just theirs, or just the ones derived from natural gas... Would you like to know why? Notice the Lack of a number for their second claim which is your assertion; they Can't support it because it is Not True. If you believe every claim of your favorite oil brand, then you are just as bad as any VW fanboi, including myself... Look here...

Five Common Engine Oil Myths

"Myth #3: Synthetic engine oils can wear down seals in an engine and cause leaks.

This is an often-cited myth. In fact, if your seals and gaskets are in good condition, synthetic oil will not leak in your engine. Synthetic oil has not been shown to deteriorate engine seals or gaskets. But it might find an existing leak. The smaller molecules of synthetic oil are able to pass through very small cracks and crevices that the larger molecules of petroleum-based oil cannot. Eventually, those small cracks and crevices can lead to bigger problems — with or without synthetic oil."


As I said, synthetic oils have Smaller Molecules, which makes them more resilient against heat, and coincidentally more helpful in that tiny film of oil between seals and spinning parts. Those tighter coils mean they have a longer life, what with the constant hot-cold-hot-cold they are asked to endure... The tighter the coils, the better lubrication, AND the better the leaks IF THERE ARE ANY.


Quote:
Originally Posted by mannys9130 View Post
A full synthetic oil designed specifically for high mileage engines with leaks and consumption issues. Pennzoil is HIGHLY respected, and Ultra is one of (if not) the best oil you can buy off the shelf. They would not produce and sell an oil that made leaks worse... Your base argument, if correct, would suggest this oil is illogical and Pennzoil would not produce it. Well, they do and it's well liked.
There is no synthetic oil made for curing leaks and consumption issues, UNLESS it has a additive cum Bars Leak or similar, OR you go to a Heavier Weight than originally used. Research for yourself under other brands, and or on BobIsTheOilGuy.com and you will see what I mean. "They would not produce and sell an oil that made leaks worse... " Beg pardon? You mean they aren't interested in selling more oil, regardless of what it does to us? I don't mean this critically, but how old are you? You and I are concerned about helping folks, corporations are not.


Quote:
Originally Posted by mannys9130 View Post
Myths about synthetic have been perpetuated from the 70s-80s when synthetic was up and coming. People say you can't mix synthetic and conventional. They say you can't use synthetic if the engine has had conventional all its life. They say you can't switch back and forth from synthetic and conventional. They say synthetic will cause leaks on an old engine. NONE of those are true. It's up to us to educate ourselves and stop continuing to repeat myths that have been proven false over and over again.

Yes, Myths have indeed been perpetuated, and you are insinuating that I have been doing that perpetuation here which I resent. You won't find any place in this thread where I have perpetuated these myths, AND IF you DO, you should point them out to me because I will correct them. Please Read My Posts Carefully, as I endeavor to be accurate, Especially when I am wrong. To be to the point, I have used synthetic in the past with good experience, and I WILL use it on my '83 300TD as soon as I get the leaks buttoned-up, but Not Before.

The fact that you have passion is a good thing, I do too. The trouble with passion is that it often hides as arrogance, which is the source of untruth, which is unhelpful in a forum of Truth-seekers.
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  #38  
Old 11-26-2015, 01:10 PM
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I should add something; no VW owner or mechanic likes Pennzoil. We've not ever had good luck with it for VWs, for whatever reason I've seen it coke-up a number Mk1 VWs, and even a few Mk4s, and I would not be surprised if using that oil was the cause of your lobe-wear issue on that/those VWs. Since the early 2000s, many VWs require the 502, 507 and/or other oil certifications to be used in VWs safely... IIRC, it was especially on the Pumpe Dusses, and perhaps on the later diesels. I am aware that Pennzoil does have this certification available on some of their oils; I am also aware that we had several VWs in for service for cam lobe wear when the owners were not careful of the type of oil they used...



FYI...

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