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  #16  
Old 10-29-2015, 08:40 PM
mannys9130's Avatar
Ignorance is a disease
 
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You have to run the recommended inflation or just a tad lower. Normally being low is a bad thing and it is if it's long term. You just want to be at or just below the recommended pressures so that you have the sidewall flex occurring and heat is generated. The heat is needed to soften the rubber that has taken this shape on and work it back to round. Really pumped up tires won't flex much and won't heat up. I'd try driving at fuel filler pressure and if no luck I'd drop it to 25 psi and try again. Don't go on the highway please. Don't go more than 10 miles without checking the sidewall to see if it's overheating.

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  #17  
Old 10-29-2015, 10:17 PM
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Are you sure the rims aren't bent? When I bought my 92 350sd both rims on the left side of the car were severely bent. thump thump thump etc.
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  #18  
Old 10-30-2015, 12:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babymog View Post
They never moved, the car didn't run.

Rubber not cracked, DOT codes only 2ish years old, good Michelins, hate to give up on them if they'll work it out. Not money I like to spend if I can avoid it, $700 is a nice dinner out, ... including the plane ticket. They don't seem unsafe, just uncomfortable.

OTOH if they are going continue to run with flat spots, W140 suspension parts aren't cheap (active shock absorbers, huh?), I'd rather replace the tires now. I just would like to have a clear indication of whether this will clear up so I can make a decision.

It will be my teenage son's car once it's in shape, needs to be safe.
Just a hunch, but this car may be better-off being flipped. I don't know that a teenager should be putting miles on a car that has a long list of expensive parts replacements in it's future.

Quote:
Originally Posted by babymog View Post
I know that the RV guys say not to park on cement for extended periods, "leaches the oils out" or something like that so I parked my coaches on HDPE cutting boards from Sam's Club. At 130psi they didn't seem to go square over the winter. Some guys used wood, some plastic sheeting, ... my method didn't seem to do it any harm.

This one was sitting for a year plus, on cement, not moved an inch, outdoors. If I believe the oils leaching out thing I guess it could be a stiff area as well as distortion/flat, not sure.

Thanks for all of the feedback, I hope that they'll work out the wiggle, but so far no joy.

I can feel it at low speeds, by 65mph it goes away, drove it 50miles today at varying speeds and it didn't seem to change anything. It was cold though, ... not sure how warm the tires get, maybe be sure they're no higher inflation than the filler-flap and try again tomorrow, if it doesn't work out I'll switch to Panzer's summer tires and hope it doesn't snow much (or my Son will learn some fun driving skills).
They're right, IMO, regards putting something between the tires and the concrete. I don't let my coaches sit-up more than in-the-weeks, not months on concrete drives. Drive 'em a little during Winter when it's dry, and the temps. get into the 40s..... I'd just see how it goes with the 2-year old Michelins, and stay off the expressways for the time being to see whether they smooth out. That's what I would do anyway.
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  #19  
Old 10-30-2015, 01:00 AM
mannys9130's Avatar
Ignorance is a disease
 
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The tires and concrete statement is the same as not putting a car battery on the ground. They are both incorrect and simply not true. The concrete does not leech anything out of a tire. The ground does not drain electricity out of a battery. It's just people who don't know any better analyzing a situation and trying to apply Occam's Razor in an incorrect fashion.
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  #20  
Old 10-30-2015, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe View Post
Just a hunch, but this car may be better-off being flipped. I don't know that a teenager should be putting miles on a car that has a long list of expensive parts replacements in it's future<>
I would agree with you Joe, but I originally bought the car for the head/turbo/IP/etc. for a wooden boat project, ... and it has so many receipts including recent rings, bearings, M-B reman head, front suspension, etc. that it seems like it should be a good safe car for him to learn in. And when/if it becomes more expensive to fix than it's worth, ... back to being an engine donor.

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