T-minus seven days till my 2471 mile voyage in the ol' '85 300TD. I've sorted out many small things, mostly with advice from people on this forum -- and for that I truly thank you.

My lower cooler hose is leaking. I've read everything I can get my hands on ... having the hose rebuilt, the AN modifications, etc ... All solid, but unfortunately, none I have time to do.

That said ... I'm talking about a peace of mind bodge, not a permanent solution.

The leak is coming from a small pinhole at the top of the lower cooler hose. It's a slow weep. Been going like that for quite awhile.

Can I bodge this JUST FOR THE JOURNEY AHEAD with, say, JB weld and self-fusing silicone wrap?

I'm thinking of cleaning it up, dousing on the JB Weld, letting it cure a good 24 hours, then wrapping silicone "rescue tape" over the JB Weld.

I can't see how it would make it worse and it may or may not help.

Thoughts?


Again, this is a small pinhole weep.


Thanks in advance.

Honestly....There is no way I would ever make a trip that long with a leaking oil cooler line!

The issue isn't the pinhole, its the fact the rubber is old and disintegrating....There is no way that can be fixed, unless you cut off the crimps and install new hose....

Maybe take the hose specs to your local Napa Autoparts and see what they have in stock?

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I hear ya. Unfortunately, I don't really have time to cut off the crimps and install a new hose. And I'm sort of locked in to making this trip.

My local Merc mechanic said, "It could go like that another ten years, or blow any time."

But again, I'm looking for a short-term bodge.

well its up to you, if you want to risk your engine.....But I will tell you now, there is NO badge/bond/hack etc to fix a rotted rubber hose....

A dremel, few hose clamps and a piece of hose that matches the specs...Is the only way to fix it....

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So I cut off the crimping with a Dremel (say, diamond cut wheel), put hose over the exposed nipple fitting and clamp it off?

Actually doesn't sound *that* hard.

How much oil gushes out?

It isn't that hard, but its better to order the correct hose and clamps from the internet but you should be able to find comparable hoses and clamps at napa....Just take in the specs of the hose and talk to a guy at the counter...Here is the thread from when I did mine...

Oil Cooler Line Rubber Replacement..... - Mercedes-Benz Forum

Not that much oil comes out, it is easy to drain into a bucket...

Remember too if you have bad motor mounts, they can cause the power steering pump to drop and sever a hose as well....

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Honestly, I'd rent a minivan if the timing was critical or fix it right if it was not. If you see the oil pressure fall and kill the motor (of critical importance with this failure), you'll be who knows where, every night waiting for the part is at whatever motel or hotel you get towed to.

Importantly, it also takes validation- people have done this repair and found a belt rubbing on the new hose- back to square 1 at best.

Most importantly, your desire to get going, or get going again, will justify every shortcut that you take when you do this repair.

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CC: NSA

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82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times

It's hard to

more likely to

concentrate on

have an accident

two things

when you're on

at the same time.

a cell phone.

www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?

I dunno man ... I'm heading out in seven days. You sure a little JB Weld and maybe some silicone tape can't plug it for a ride?

What belt could be damaging it? There is no belt anywhere near the lower oil cooler hose on my 85 300TD.

No...and again NO!

Seven days is plenty of time to fix it....You can even order a low oil cooler hose from here and have it over nighted....

Like was said....Do you want to be stranded somewhere? Do you want to attempt to find a new 300TD Engine?

Trust me, I have taken longer trips then that in my 300D and have ALWAYS came back with more issues then I left with and I go over my cars with a fine tooth comb....If these cars aren't regularly taken on trips like this....There will be issues....

A oil cooler hose is not something you can band aid....

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I'll second the opinion here. DO NOT GO ON A LONG ROAD TRIP LIKE THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The fact that you have a pin hole means that the hose is breaking down and rotting away. Replacing the rubber part of the hose isn't that hard. I did it on my 79 300D, it took a couple hours, no biggie. I cut the crimps most of the way through with a dremel wheel then popped them off with a screw driver. That way I didn't risk damaging the barbs on the hose ends. Then I put on the new hose with some T-Bar style clamps (I recommended these over the standard work type clamps as they are better built). I believe I used category I hydraulic hose but don't remember the exact spec. Basically I went into my local parts store and asked for a few feet of oil cooler line in the correct size and bought the T-bar clamps.

If your looking for someone here to tell you it'll be fine you won't find it here. You need to fix it, and soon. Preferably immediately.

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2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily
2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily
1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended
1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL
2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped
1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above
1992 BMW 525i -traded in
1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103
1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one
1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold

When the engine mounts collapse the power steering belt will saw through the line

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2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily
2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily
1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended
1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL
2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped
1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above
1992 BMW 525i -traded in
1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103
1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one
1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold

I can't even begin to express with works what a bad idea this is....

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2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily
2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily
1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended
1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL
2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped
1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above
1992 BMW 525i -traded in
1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103
1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one
1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold

Give this thread a read
Oil cooler lines half done now nothing to drive :mad: 1984 300D TD

__________________
2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily
2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily
1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended
1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL
2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped
1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above
1992 BMW 525i -traded in
1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103
1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one
1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold

At highway speed, it only takes a few seconds for the oil to be pumped out of the engine and onto the road. In that same time frame, serious damage occurs. By the time you notice it, it has developed into a loud knock. By then, there's no going back.

I agree with your mechanic. It might work, or it might total the car. There's no predicting the future.

Just rent a car. Bite the bullet, rent a car, and replace the lines properly later.

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'84 190D 2.2 5MT (Red/Palomino) Current car. Love it!
'85 190D 2.2 Auto *Cali* (Blue/Blue) *sold*
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