Prope order of common tasks - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

BobbyNoodles · #1 09-03-2015, 02:06 PM

115.117 240d diesel 4spd manual ?73-74?

I have a list of things to do for my engine and I am trying to figure out the best order to do each task.

Replace front rt motor mount
Check Front crank seal bolt for proper 250 torque.
Valve Adjustment
Compression test
Diesel purge
Check/Test Injectors
Replace fuel filters & pre filters
Clean Fuel injector hardline (best way?)

I am unsure if I should check injector nozzles with pop tester then or perform a purge first. Would it make sense to clean the nozzles or replace with Monark tips at this point? Before a purge? ? Or put injectors back in then purge then remove and clean. Also plan to clean my fuel strainer in fuel tank. When would be most appropriate to replace the main fuel filter? I want to make sure I do it in the right order to keep things cleaner.

I have been diagnosed with a leaking front crank seal, but one motor mount is bad so I will check the front bolt to see if it is loose and causing a leak. I have been told the shifter seals and shifter bushings are bad. (also lower oil pan seal needs to be replaced) If I was told this should the compression have been checked first by the mechanic? Before diagnosing these errors? Also the antifreeze is green and should not be. So I guess I will have to flush the coolant? Looking for some advice, thanks for the input, I have learned a lot here from other posts and hopefully this will be helpful for me or someone else in the future!

leathermang · #2 09-03-2015, 02:21 PM

Absolutely valve adjustment first. Everything depends on that being correct.
Diesel Purge at same time as filter replacement.

then if there is a chance the movement of the engine could do something bad to a belt for instance... that engine mount becomes important.

dkr · #3 09-03-2015, 02:43 PM

I would do the motor mounts as a pair. The parts are inexpensive enough and you're already doing the majority of the work by jacking up the engine. There's also something of a symmetrical wear pattern that develops over time. Might as well do both.

Dkr.

BobbyNoodles · #4 09-03-2015, 02:45 PM

The left mount was replaced ~3k miles ago and have been told does not need replacement. Thanks for the input but will probably just do the one. Not sure if I have to loosen the left to install the right, makes sense I dont want to tear the left mount. when jacking the engine or bend anything

leathermang · #5 09-03-2015, 02:50 PM

I think there are three motor mounts for your car...
what people who do not have a paper manual often miss is that when putting those on the FSM says you should use a home made gauge to make sure it is located correctly...
so instead of just doing that next one... might do it and the rear... loosen all three..and make sure the engine is properly situated.... which can make a difference in lots of things including the life of those engine mounts.... the life of your driveshaft ujoints, etc...

BobbyNoodles · #6 09-03-2015, 03:02 PM

Great thanks! So the plan is to get under there check the status of all the mounts and replace the right and perhaps rear. Would have to purchase the trans/rear mount. I have a copy of the instructions from the paper manual also. The third motor mount, which should be the rear mount I believe is the same one that is referred to as the transmission mount. Can anyone confirm? Any type I should stay away from? Myele ok to use?

BWhitmore · #7 09-03-2015, 03:15 PM

Stay very far away from URO parts. Lemforder and genuine Mercedes are best. Make sure to do the valve adjustment first before the compression test.

leathermang · #8 09-03-2015, 03:28 PM

yes, that is the trans mount at the rear...
did you find the gauge dimensions ?
Like with steering parts...
if only one item is replaced.... it usually causes the others units to wear out faster..
some things are meant to work as a team...

BobbyNoodles · #9 09-03-2015, 03:45 PM

I believe the gauge is not needed for my cars model. I have a 73 (more probable a 74) 115.117
I have located a Meyle For around 30 and it is what I will use if needed. Going to do an adjust then comp test first before mounts I suppose. Definatly heeding the advice about parts taking wear at the same time/flowing together.

Cool feeling more confident

BWhitmore · #10 09-03-2015, 03:49 PM

I would recommend doing the fuel tank strainer first, then the two underhood filters. Whenever doing motor mounts, brakes, suspension, tires always replace in pairs.

charmalu · #11 09-03-2015, 05:06 PM

I don`t know where the fuel tank strainer is on a 115, I know the fill up is in the rear. Maybe through the Trunk floor through an access plate.?

On a w123 it come out from under the car. Then you would want the tank as empty as possible, or you will get a nice Diesel bath.

The W123 240D has a third engine mount under the rear of the engine, does the W115 have this mount?

Charlie

sent from my pos computer

BobbyNoodles · #12 09-03-2015, 06:36 PM

The filter seems to be on the bottom of the tank But I am not sure. It seems easy enough to locate and ill just have to pull it out and clean it off.

This seems to be the way to go ;
W115 Fuel Tank Strainer Location

I am not sure the size of the filter but it seems to only be tightened to 35 ft/torque. And is fairly easy to remove.

leathermang · #13 09-03-2015, 06:40 PM

35 ft lbs..no problem...
unless 40 plus years without being removed may have become an ' intervening variable' ......

BobbyNoodles · #14 09-04-2015, 09:04 PM

I also have coolant pooling on the rear passenger floor. I have had coolant leak to the drivers seat floor, but have not seen any pooling, continue to see pooling in rear. Considered bypassing the heater core, or running a heater core sealer solution through the unit, but the problem seemed to go away. Car has not been driven in a while.

Last year the heater stopped responding, but I was able to drip some lube onto the fan blade and get the motor running and the next day it was responsive again. I think it just needed to be lubed. So at this point I suspect a leak in the heater line or line to the heater core and I already know its extremely hard to get to the heater core. Going to try and trace down the problem by starting somewhere there.

So I am looking for information on dealinig with the heater core on this car.

I am by no means a mechanic just trying to learn and fix things myself! Thanks!

w115 240d 1973

leathermang · #15 09-04-2015, 09:13 PM

Since that heater is connected to the engine radiator.... I suggest no sealant type of fixes...
perhaps by passing is the best plan right now.... give you time to research it more...
Watch for overheating..... as when you have a leak....you are not dealing with a pressurized cooling system...so coolant boils at lower temperature than it should..