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  #16  
Old 11-22-2015, 10:18 AM
vwnate1's Avatar
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THANX for all the greatcomments ! .

It's running fine again , no noticable difference in power .

I'm stuck on junky computers but i will post some pix when I find a better one or have my lap top on a decent connection......

Another question : I'm soon to overhaul the OM616 engine in my '82 240D , it has a bad # 1 valve , should I re use the same head or is there a better one to look out for in the junk yards ? .

It runs very well indeed once off idle , # 1 cylinder only has 200 # of compression and # 1 valve is only .002" clearance available indicating to me either valve seat recession or a tuliping valve...

@ 350,000 miles it's time to do the full monty on the engine and tranny both .

Maybe there's a link to an OM616 cylinder head thread ? .

TIA ,

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  #17  
Old 11-22-2015, 04:31 PM
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Ignorance is a disease
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwnate1 View Post
THANX for all the greatcomments ! .

It's running fine again , no noticable difference in power .

I'm stuck on junky computers but i will post some pix when I find a better one or have my lap top on a decent connection......

Another question : I'm soon to overhaul the OM616 engine in my '82 240D , it has a bad # 1 valve , should I re use the same head or is there a better one to look out for in the junk yards ? .

It runs very well indeed once off idle , # 1 cylinder only has 200 # of compression and # 1 valve is only .002" clearance available indicating to me either valve seat recession or a tuliping valve...

@ 350,000 miles it's time to do the full monty on the engine and tranny both .

Maybe there's a link to an OM616 cylinder head thread ? .

TIA ,
Do you mean if there's a different head that's better like with the 603 #14 and #22? No, I don't believe so. The early engines and the later engine are different due to a power output change between them. Different internal changes produced that. If your head is not cracked or unserviceable, try to reuse it.
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  #18  
Old 11-23-2015, 08:49 AM
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Thumbs up OM616 Head Question

Yes , that was my question , THANK YOU ! .

Here's the # 22 head in the junkyard :

OM603 Cylinder Head 1987-img_1145%5B1%5D.jpg

OM603 Cylinder Head 1987-img_1146%5B1%5D.jpg

# 6 cylinder looks funny but it was O.K. :

OM603 Cylinder Head 1987-img_1149%5B1%5D.jpg
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1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better
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  #19  
Old 11-23-2015, 01:05 PM
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Post Junk Yard Head

And here's the engine it came off of :

OM603 Cylinder Head 1987-img_1150%5B1%5D.jpg

The junked Car :

OM603 Cylinder Head 1987-img_1151%5B1%5D.jpg
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1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better
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  #20  
Old 11-23-2015, 04:38 PM
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Excellent.

ALWAYS pull engine or drivetrain parts from cars that were hit and totalled. If it was smashed, it was on the road driving. If you find a car that isn't smashed up, it might have a blown drivetrain and the owner decided it was not worth the fix. I take cosmetic parts from those cars, not engine parts.
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  #21  
Old 11-24-2015, 09:06 AM
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Thumbs up Parts Sourcing

Just so ~ .

I've been a Mechanic for 50 + years now and building vehicles has always been a pastime of mine .

When I ran a VW Shop / Junk Yard I'd buy all the wrecks / strippers / burn jobs I could lay my hands on and build inexpensive used cars out of them , made very good pocket $ doing so .

I try to explain this to other DIY'ers but they never seem to ' get ' this simple concept .

They're always looking at how it looks rather than ' did it RUN ' when parts shopping .

I have received several off list queries as to where to go find these # 22 cylinder heads : I peruse the self service Junk Yards on a regular basis , all of them near me until I find what I need .

LKQ has bought up most of them across America in violation of anti - trust laws but no one cares . they've raised all the prices sharply but still have good stuff .

Still quite a few independent Junk Yards out there , it's typically cheaper to buy a whole engine and use what you need then sell off / give away the left overs .

Here's the car :

Hm ~ it says this phoyto is already in this thread .
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1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better
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  #22  
Old 11-25-2015, 04:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mannys9130 View Post
Excellent.

ALWAYS pull engine or drivetrain parts from cars that were hit and totalled. If it was smashed, it was on the road driving. If you find a car that isn't smashed up, it might have a blown drivetrain and the owner decided it was not worth the fix. I take cosmetic parts from those cars, not engine parts.


Hell, in my years crawling the yards I never made that connection.
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  #23  
Old 11-25-2015, 04:39 PM
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Diesel Dandy
 
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Post Sourcing Parts

Impounds too tend to be at the very least runners .

I used to peruse the tow auctions and got lots of really good deals , they typically tell you why the vehicle was impounded , DUI on a nice clean car means you're good to go , not so much if it's a bucket as many drunks / dopers just run their rigs into the ground .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better
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