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  #16  
Old 04-25-2015, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jooseppi Luna View Post
I zoomed in on the picture and measured the distance between the bottom of the bumper and the bottom of the tire. There is a definite list to the driver's-side.
Okay, Mr. Detective. What would you expect to observe given that his sidewalk and driveway appear to slope downhill to the left in the photo? If a car is parked on a sideways slope, which wheels are carrying a greater load? Get out those Physics notes from college, will ya?

Goose- I am teasing of course. I also feel there is a slight lean (probably less than an inch), but it is greatly exaggerated by the optical illusion.

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  #17  
Old 04-25-2015, 11:51 PM
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If it has Rubber Spring Pads it is possible for them to rot out.
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  #18  
Old 04-26-2015, 12:10 AM
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Actually the real 'culprit' is more weight in the drivers seat over the life of the vehicle. This tends to cause many, if not all of the failures noted above.
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  #19  
Old 04-26-2015, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skippy View Post
I'm thinking sub frame mounts.
Collapsed subframe mount. Compare the left and right side specifically looking at the gap between the steel flange and the rubber facing. Don't need to be critical on the measurements, just look for an exaggerated difference between left and right.

Personally I don't think it's a weak spring, they are simply built too tough to simply sag to this degree. IMO.

What I can say though is new subframe bushings make the rear stand proud, improve handling, especially through corners.
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  #20  
Old 04-26-2015, 04:47 PM
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Thanks for all the replies. I'm going to get under it and check out the sub frame mounts. Are they difficult to swap out?
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  #21  
Old 04-27-2015, 03:06 PM
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Take the car to a school/shopping/church parking lot which is flat and take another picture to compare. I thing the ground level around your house is not level and could be fooling our eyes...
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  #22  
Old 04-27-2015, 05:51 PM
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The eccentric bolts on the front lower arms, inner joint (that adjust camber) could affect ride height to a degree... if one side is in the up position and the other in the down.
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  #23  
Old 04-27-2015, 07:47 PM
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I'll try getting a pic on level ground and measurements tomorrow. I crawled under and inspected the sub frame mounts, and they do appear to be dry. Also got a look at the springs. They look fine. Can't really make out any other possibilities. It's a Colorado car since new, and it's got me thinking that the dry weather has rotted out most of the bushings. It still drives quietly and handles well.
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  #24  
Old 04-27-2015, 08:18 PM
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Moog (and others such as Hunter, Bear, etc) publish ride height specs with instructions on measuring points, etc for alignment mechanics. Spring do sag and break coils and this is quickly diagnosed by checking ride height. Even the highly respected three point star's springs break & sag. In the last year I've had at least 4 w126's, and 1 w123, and an odd 190 in the shop for replacement springs. One w126 had springs that looked great until I got it out and counted the coils - one full rev had broken off. No clue when or where, or how long ago - customer said the car always leaned. He bought it new. The 190's coils were so overstressed, they fell apart after they were removed and dropped on the floor. Steel fatigues with age and exercise/use. Springs are no exception. Coils are cheap, and a good fix. While you are in there, look at the rubber, it also fails with age. One of the most dramatic improvements a restoration mechanic can do to an old car is replace springs, shocks & rubber bushings. Combine this with a good tires & snug front end/steering gear, and you'll notice an immediate improvement while driving. Good luck & check the springs.
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  #25  
Old 04-27-2015, 09:40 PM
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Charlie F, thanks for the informative reply. Any recommended sources for springs and specs? I would like standard ride hight or slightly taller, but not 4x4 high like some I've seen. I appreciate ground clearance, but not to the point where it looks like a special off road edition.
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  #26  
Old 04-28-2015, 08:24 AM
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I looked in the epc, the spring differences are for heavy duty vehicles, police, ambulance, etc. No height difference mentioned.

You can replace your existing rubber shim. There are four thicknesses, they are marked by the number of burls, the range is from one to four, 8mm-13mm-18mm-23mm.

See what you have now and adjust from there.
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  #27  
Old 04-28-2015, 09:54 AM
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The spring pads will make twice the distance at the wheel. so if you are low 1" as an example you just need a half inch taller spring pad.
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  #28  
Old 04-28-2015, 11:01 AM
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My w123 does this too. It's on Vogtland lowering springs and ****ty shocks.
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  #29  
Old 04-28-2015, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie Foxtrot View Post
Moog (and others such as Hunter, Bear, etc) publish ride height specs with instructions on measuring points, etc for alignment mechanics. Spring do sag and break coils and this is quickly diagnosed by checking ride height. Even the highly respected three point star's springs break & sag. In the last year I've had at least 4 w126's, and 1 w123, and an odd 190 in the shop for replacement springs. One w126 had springs that looked great until I got it out and counted the coils - one full rev had broken off. No clue when or where, or how long ago - customer said the car always leaned. He bought it new. The 190's coils were so overstressed, they fell apart after they were removed and dropped on the floor. Steel fatigues with age and exercise/use. Springs are no exception. Coils are cheap, and a good fix. While you are in there, look at the rubber, it also fails with age. One of the most dramatic improvements a restoration mechanic can do to an old car is replace springs, shocks & rubber bushings. Combine this with a good tires & snug front end/steering gear, and you'll notice an immediate improvement while driving. Good luck & check the springs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by toomany MBZ View Post
I looked in the epc, the spring differences are for heavy duty vehicles, police, ambulance, etc. No height difference mentioned.

You can replace your existing rubber shim. There are four thicknesses, they are marked by the number of burls, the range is from one to four, 8mm-13mm-18mm-23mm.

See what you have now and adjust from there.
Another place for the unloaded spring data (only original springs not after market stuff) is chapter 32-250 in ye olde FSMe

You need to cross reference the part numbers in that chapter with the list in the "permissible spring and shock chapter" chapter 32-010 to get back to chassis types (if that is your way of working out what you have got fitted)

The downside to this data is that the springs need to be removed to check - not so bad for the back springs on a W123 but boy on the front...
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  #30  
Old 04-28-2015, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lycoming-8 View Post
Actually the real 'culprit' is more weight in the drivers seat over the life of the vehicle. This tends to cause many, if not all of the failures noted above.
Agree. In British cars we call that "The Bachelor Lean"

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