homemade car ramps. (no laughing) - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Ceristimo · #1 03-27-2015, 07:12 PM

I've got the 8 ton Rhino ramps myself. Ordered from Amazon, with Amazon Prime (free shipping) to Alaska. I think I paid 70 bucks two years ago. I use them all the time, for a variety of vehicles. Not just my own, but I've had friends borrow them as well. So far they have been amazing.

However, I always put jack stands underneath the rails on the vehicle, when it's on ramps. Better to be safe then sorry.

I honestly don't see how you can possible tip those Rhino ramps. They are quite wide.

With that said:
I think you did a great job making ramps out of wood. I've seen it done before, but yours look quite well designed. Nice!

Drago · #2 03-27-2015, 08:44 PM

I was shocked when I read the curb wieght of my 300D. ditto on the use of jack stands

pawoSD · #3 03-27-2015, 10:27 PM

I have almost the same ramps

I built mine differently though, I'll post a picture if I end up using them tomorrow.

I do have a smaller set I made that are about a foot tall...like yours in miniature.

biopete · #4 03-27-2015, 11:31 PM

I love it. Very creative and a great use of 2x8. I might make a set off 4 sometime. Nice tall ones. And maybe use 2x10 and have a nice out side drive on "lift"

I see tis big metal drive on ramp at a shop nearby. It's about 5 feet tall maybe. Sits outside. It would be cool for sometime when you want some fresh air. Good for inspecting a car too when you got another on the lift.

BillGrissom · #5 03-28-2015, 01:37 AM

Looks very solid and impossible to collapse like an open metal ramp could (unlikely), but last time I bought lumber, 2x8's were quite expensive, probably as much as used metal ramps on craigslist. I always stow the wheels under the frame rails w/ a board on top to take up the gap, just as backup.

When doing extensive work like removing an engine or tranny, I jack the car up and rest the frame rails on a lattice of 4x4's cut from old redwood fence posts. That gives a wide footprint that could never tip over. I also shake the car well. One never knows when an earthquake could strike in CA.

mytmousemalibu · #6 03-28-2015, 03:38 AM

I wouldn't fear using those as long as you have a failsafe. I actually made some nice little ramps from flat plywood that are about 3" tall for winching our race cars into the trailer because they are very low and it's easier on things than trying to make it roll over a 3" tall jump to the ramp door.

Glad your not attempting this death trap

vstech · #7 03-28-2015, 05:09 AM

What's wrong with the death trap? The OSB covers the construction, so hard to tell if it's a stack or a box... I see bars connecting the stacks together... It should be stable...

mytmousemalibu · #8 03-28-2015, 06:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

What's wrong with the death trap? The OSB covers the construction, so hard to tell if it's a stack or a box... I see bars connecting the stacks together... It should be stable...

True, can't see internal construction But his 2 tie-bars look like some pine 1x2's and the ramps look so sturdy.... You couldn't pay me to crawl under that Vette.
My dad was a firefighter for quite a few years and responded to calls of people crushed to death under cars. I have been told too much!

mochasc · #9 03-28-2015, 07:57 AM

I have a set of 4 of these made from 2x12s with 45 deg angled inclines. I had previously used them for a newer 911 to change oil and needed the width to accomodate the tires. They work well and are quite stable when used with redundant support like OP describes. I like the extra width for safety and stability.

Mine are heavy but have come in handy many times. My only problem was having to apply rubberized backing on the bottom. It turns out that a slippery garage floor doesn't want to hold the ramp in one place. Using them for the front led to a bit of sliding.

vstech · #10 03-28-2015, 05:21 AM

Mmmmmm!

http://youtu.be/4Sj3CIbMaY0

vstech · #11 03-28-2015, 08:03 AM

I google searched home made car ramps... Some seriously scary ones out there...

pgringo · #12 03-28-2015, 03:07 PM

I second or third placing an extra wheel under the car.

vstech · #13 03-29-2015, 10:25 AM

I still say ratcheting jack stands CANNOT drop with the weight of a vehicle on them.
No POSSIBLE way to disengage the ratchet. Shear pin will give before vehicle weight is lifted to release the ratchet.

funola · #14 03-29-2015, 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

I still say ratcheting jack stands CANNOT drop with the weight of a vehicle on them.
No POSSIBLE way to disengage the ratchet. Shear pin will give before vehicle weight is lifted to release the ratchet.

The dead son's father's attempted explanation was the force of his son/ creeper or whatever else slamming into the jack stand handle was great enough to release the ratchet. Hard to believe, but it did happen (if the account of the story was indeed factual).

97 SL320 · #15 03-29-2015, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

I did some tests on my own ratcheting jack stands and solemnly discovered that when the ratchet mechanism releases (while being loaded), it drops all the way to the bottom. I bet very few people know that. I still have my ratcheting jack stands but I use them at the lowest position when possible or I back them up if I need them higher.

How much of a load did you apply to the stand before you pulled the release? ( in pounds )

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

The dead son's father's attempted explanation was the force of his son/ creeper or whatever else slamming into the jack stand handle was great enough to release the ratchet. Hard to believe, but it did happen (if the account of the story was indeed factual).

Ratchet jack stands use the force of the car to further keep them engaged. It might be slightly possible that the ratchet was miss formed or there was some other issue with the stand that a visual inspection would have revealed.

I wonder if person that set the stands pulled the saddle all the way out, let the ratchet flop over then reinserted the saddle. In this case the roll pin between the handle and ratchet take the full load. If used properly, the pin sees zero load. Ratchet stands come unassembled, once you drop the saddle into place there is a little tab you bend over. This prevents the saddle from being pulled out past the ratchet.