Driveline vibration 85 300D - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

funola · #1 03-17-2015, 05:45 PM

I was on the highway a few days ago giving it an Italian tuneup and did a few pedal to the metal at 60 mph going up a hill. On the last one (din't want to do more), I felt a vibration in the chassis which was alarming (never experienced it before). I backed off the throttle and the vibration went away. I was worrying it may be the flex disk and drove it easy and got it home with no problems. Got it on ramps to look and both flex disks looked ok, no cracks. However in the front u-joint and center bearing area there are some issues and I took some pics. The plastic shroud is torn which covers the spline. Shaking the drive shaft I can produce a slight clicking sound which sounds metal to metal. Can you tell from the pics what parts need replacing?

In this pic, does that look like it's out of place and is that a crack? I have to have a closer look.

Diesel911 · #2 03-17-2015, 11:04 PM

The Sleeve issue may or may not be related.

And while I cannot tell from the pics what is wrong there has been at least one Member who had a loose Collar Nut and the on the female side of the Coupling were eaten up.

Or maybe the Collar Nut is simply loose.

Nice pics.

Maybe the U-joint needs to be beaten on as in the below thread.
Sticking U-joint causes Vibration that Rips up several Drive Shaft Supports turns out to be Rusty Needle Bearings
W123 Propeller shaft vibration tears up rubber mounts, replaced nearly everything

Maxbumpo · #3 03-18-2015, 08:12 AM

Carrier bearing worn out?

charmalu · #4 03-18-2015, 11:07 AM

Looks like the rubber support has a tear.

With the wheels off the ground, (and the vehicle safely supported and blocked) and the trans out of gear with parking break off.
Turn the DL and see if the U-joint has any movement. Could be a worn Joint.

Charlie

funola · #5 03-18-2015, 11:36 AM

Thanks for the replies. I'll do the tests Charlie suggested then take out the front driveshaft and carrier bearing to inspect.

This is a good DIY with pics for a 240D 4 spd but mine is 85 which is different. How to replace the driveshaft support (carrier) bearing - A step by step guide

The FSM is not that helpful with lousy photos and have you removing the exhaust, transmission mount and jacking up the transmission to remove the front driveshaft. Is that really necessary? If anyone have a good DIY with pics for an 85 please post link.

funola · #6 03-18-2015, 11:44 AM

Are the areas with the red arrows rubber that has been separated?

Carpenterman · #7 03-18-2015, 12:06 PM

You don't have to remove the exhaust, but you probably will have to remove the trans. support (by jacking the trans) to get at the front flex disc bolts. With the center support freed, the driveshaft comes out to the rear. Of course, you'll have to loosen the collar nut and collapse the shaft to free it from the rear flex disc. The support wants to hang up on the parking brake linkage, but you can finagle it out.

I would go ahead and replace the center bearing and bushing if it was me. One of those "while you're in there's" and it isn't very expensive. In my experience, the bushing fails at the fold in the rubber and yours looks OK.

There's a reason the vibration appeared, probably separate from the center support. Check the condition of the transmission mount, the tightness of the output flange, the hitch in the U-joint, whether any balancing weights have come off the shaft, and the condition of the centering bushings at either end.

funola · #8 03-18-2015, 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Carpenterman

You don't have to remove the exhaust, but you probably will have to remove the trans. support (by jacking the trans) to get at the front flex disc bolts. With the center support freed, the driveshaft comes out to the rear. Of course, you'll have to loosen the collar nut and collapse the shaft to free it from the rear flex disc. The support wants to hang up on the parking brake linkage, but you can finagle it out.

I would go ahead and replace the center bearing and bushing if it was me. One of those "while you're in there's" and it isn't very expensive. In my experience, the bushing fails at the fold in the rubber and yours looks OK.

There's a reason the vibration appeared, probably separate from the center support. Check the condition of the transmission mount, the tightness of the output flange, the hitch in the U-joint, whether any balancing weights have come off the shaft, and the condition of the centering bushings at either end.

Good info, thanks!
Is the broken plastic piece what the FSM calls "rubber sleeve"? Is it available as a replacement part? How did it break like that? The EPC is not much help in identifying parts. A lot of the items says "invalid" when I click on them.

funola · #9 03-18-2015, 01:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

The Sleeve issue may or may not be related.

And while I cannot tell from the pics what is wrong there has been at least one Member who had a loose Collar Nut and the on the female side of the Coupling were eaten up.

Or maybe the Collar Nut is simply loose.

Nice pics.

Maybe the U-joint needs to be beaten on as in the below thread.
Sticking U-joint causes Vibration that Rips up several Drive Shaft Supports turns out to be Rusty Needle Bearings
W123 Propeller shaft vibration tears up rubber mounts, replaced nearly everything

I posted to the thread you linked to asking the OP for an update. No reply yet. How is your staked u joint job from 2011 holding up? I hope I do not have to replace mine and will try that trick in your linked thread.

The secret to nice pics with my phone (Samsung Galaxy note 2) is to use flash, auto focus, and zoom as needed (4x max on mine). I touch the camera icon, the LED flash comes on lighting up the dark scene and auto focuses for 1/3 of a sec before snapping the pic. In that 1/3 of a sec, I can see the object being captured and move the camera to frame exactly what I want in the shot. I can do this with one hand and take a bunch of shots and choose the best ones. These phones are amazing!

Quahog · #10 03-18-2015, 05:09 PM

my driveline has started to vibrate some as well.

recently the flex boot tore and made a terrible noise as it flapped about.

new boot listed for $8.86 @ my local dealer, pn: 202-411-04-97

new unit is more plastic-y but should function the same

waiting for more agreeable weather to crawl under car to replace & investigate source of vibration as flex discs, bearing & center support are reasonably new & of good quality.

funola · #11 03-18-2015, 09:57 PM

Those dark lines pointed by red arrows are shadows, not cracks in the rubber and is a figment of the camera flash! The center bearing support rubber is fine.

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

Are the areas with the red arrows rubber that has been separated?

It turns out the 46 mm nut was loose by about 1 turn. I don't know where or when I got this big and heavy 1-13/16 open end from but it's just a hair over 46 mm, with the adjustable wrench (about 18" long) on the smaller hex on the shaft, I was able to tighten it up.

The torn rubber sleeve has a p/n 0115 411 0697 on it, but searching turned out it's the entire driveshaft Kardanwelle MERCEDES-BENZ W123 - 01154110697

I am not going to take anything apart at this point but will grease up the splines and go for some test drives. If no more vibrations, I will make some sort of wrap around rubber sleeve to keep dirt out of the splines.

mach4 · #12 03-18-2015, 10:09 PM

This is not a recommendation, but I had a friend who repaired his rubber support, in the car, using jet fuel tank sealer. It's some pretty tough stuff and the repair has held for a year already.

Mine was torn when I got my car and I replaced both the rubber and center bearing.

funola · #13 03-18-2015, 10:12 PM

Anyone know if the position of the parts are correct? Shouldn't the splines be seated all the way so it's not visible? I am thinking it's not correct if the splines are pulled out like that and is the reason for breaking the rubber sleeve.

What does tightening the 46 mm nut do (FSM calls it a clamping nut)? Does it tighten a collar which grips the splines tighter? Torque on 46 mm nut is 30-40 Nm (22 to 29 ft lbs).

funola · #14 03-18-2015, 11:12 PM

Found the answer in the Haynes manual on driveshaft removal P. 157.

"use 2 large open end wrenches to loosen the sleeve nut (approx 2 turns). This will permit the shaft to be slightly compressed to simplify removal."

So it does sound like it is some kind of collar. I need to check that I didn't make that nut too tight. Should be 30 ft lbs. Don't have the special 46 mm crows foot for the torque wrench so will have to wing it.

charmalu · #15 03-18-2015, 11:33 PM

I have removed my own drive lines on the 300D and 240D, not really much difference between the two cars.

Mark the two DL sections with something, I use cheap white Nail Polish.
This give you a reference if the 2, 1/2`s come apart, or you decide to remove the two sections first.

Remove the 3 bolts on the Diff end, leave Disk on Diff.
Remove the 3 bolts on the Trans end, leave Disk on Trans.

Loosen the 46mm Nut.

Loosen the 2 bolts (14mm?) on the Center Support.

Using a pry bar, pry the DL off the rear Disk.

Then pry the DL loose from the Trans end.

Tighten the 46mm nut.

Remove the 2 14mm bolts.

Then walk the whole unit to the rear and out.

I had my DL U-Joint replaced in the 80 240D, they also replaced the bearing and Support. 33K miles later,
had a vibration. Support was torn all the way around.

So, ordered new parts.

I replaced my center Support and Bearing. Bearing was a SKF made in Korea.

Febi Rubber Support, made in China.

Trans. Mount, Febi, made in China.

Just a heads up.

We`ll see how long these last.

Original MB support, over 300K miles, replacement 33k miles.

Got it all from this site, Febi, Reinz, and Euro were the options as I remember.
Dealer will be my next purchase.

Can`t go too wrong on the rubber/plastic Collar. URO or???

Charlie