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#1
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radiator tank leaks
I'm seeing a small amount of weeping on the top of my Behr radiator tank; where the aluminum and the plastic side tank join. This is original radiator I feel certain.
Im in a cool climate with little stop and go driving; wondering if I can replace the radiator cap with a lower pressure one instead of buying a new radiator. The car runs around 90c all the time, with long hills going to 100c. Would less pressure make any difference? |
#2
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You need to fix the leak...
the engine needs to run at a certain temperature .... your system can not meet that cooling task under the range of conditions you might expect your car to function correctly under.... unless it has the ability to refrain from boiling during the extremes it encounters.
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#3
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What he said. Your aluminum head engine is very unforgiving of coolant loss.
Unfortunately this is a common problem with these radiators, this is a typical failure point. It will only get worse. It will at best just leave you stranded, and at worst will leave you stranded with the HG blown or head cracked.
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family Still going strong 2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD) 2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD) both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023 2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles) 2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles) 1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh 1987 300TD sold to vstech |
#4
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Clean the crimps well then goop it with RTV all around. It was a permanent repair when I did this to leaky plastic radiator tank.
__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#5
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RTV's are not all created equal....
Mercedes specifies a glue for this purpose... it needs to be compatible with the plastic to stick to it well enough to hold pressure...and vibration, heat, over the years...
__________________
1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#6
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New radiator for me I guess!
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#7
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Go to auto parts store, rent the radiator pump up tool, then clean the top of the tank where it's weeping, with soap and water, inside and out. Gently re crimp the aluminum I have used a socket extension. It just takes a slight tap. There is a large o-ring under it, and more clamping force generally fixes the weeping syndrome. Then fill the cooling system back up, and pump up the radiator to 18 psi and see if it's still weeping...
Total cost of repair: 2 hours of your life... No parts.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 560SL convertible 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! ![]() 1987 300TD 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#8
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You're not going to try to fix it? Try Vstech's recrimping, that may just do it. If it doesn't, paint it with 2 coats of POR15 (after cleaning /degreasing/ drying), then RTV over it. I guaranty that will stop the leak. POR 15 is amazingly tenacious stuff. I spilled a few drops on some plastic and could not scrape it off easily with a screwdriver.
__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#9
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I see it this way: 250.00 once every three months or so is well within tolerance to keep a car on the road. Its running hot away, and I know it had prestone in it for the last 30 years. So the radiator is compromised if not due for a total failure. I definitely drive it hard, so it makes sense to have confidence in my cooling system.
Wifey likes the car, but she'd change that soon enough if we had to walk home from the dance some night... I'm also going into the water pump soon for an inspection of the impeller. So anyone want to buy a BEHR oem with some slight weeping issues? Cheap? |
#10
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IF YOU CAREFULLY follow the specific instructions for application .
ALSO POR 15 name covers several products.. research to see which you need to use...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
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