This past April, the torsion bar end gave up to rust and abuse resulting in the purchase & installation of Baum tools QP1000 torsion bar saver.

Once the bar end was cut back and ground to bright metal, there was noticeable slop in the fit. We went ahead & welded it up anyway.

Due to the location, it was possible to get a bead only halfway around.

4 months have passed and it is still holding. My commute is only 10 miles, but over a bridge with lots of expansion joints, so I drive much more carefully now

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1991 300D

When it is nice hot and dry you might want to seal off the side that was not welded so that Water/Salt does not get inside and rust away the Weld.

JB Weld Epoxy would also add a tiny bit of strength and keep it from flexing from side to side. Fill the groove as best you can and use Masking Tape over the Epoxy to keep it from running out.
It will take about 4 hours to cure.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

i have a similar problem, my question is, what kind of welder to use to do the job? would a wire feeder be sufficient? if stick, what rod should be used? is the part indeed stainless? so is welding stainless to the torsion bar steel a problem? i want to try to figure all this stuff out so my welder friend has minimal time on the job.