Marilyn the 240D's OM617 Transplant... - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

WVOPWRD! · #1 07-31-2014, 05:38 PM

K, starting my conversion thread. I know there are many, but this is fun, right? I'll have many details, questions, pictures, beers, frustrations, questions, beers, frustrations, triumphs, beers, questions, and frustrations. Probably some blood too. She's a manual, so there will be manual tranny mating questions involved...

I just picked up a mostly complete OM617.952 with good compression #'s from DeliveryValve (thanks again Richard!), and he was very willing to hook me up with whatever he had available to help with my swap!

For the record:
#1 360
#2 360
#3 350
#4 340
#5 350

I have a few immediate questions before I even dive in, it will likely be a few day/or weeks before I start getting greasy, but I want to be prepared and assemble as many parts as possible in the meantime. Also, I'm hoping that folks will be able to say, "hey, I have an extra one of those..." and we can work out little deals along the way

-Will the engine mounting arms from the 616 fit and hold the 617? The 617 came sans arms.
-Please offer recommendations of things I ought to do while I have the engine out. In mind already I have:
*clean/degrease
*oil pan gasket
*valve adjustment
*vacuum pump service
*front main seal
*intake cleaning
*injector service
-Can I use the power steering pump off of the 616 on the 617? Seems like yes but wanna make sure.

There will be more but off the top of my head that's a start.

Regarding the injector service, I was thinking of investing in one of these things. I know it's been talked about, and if anyone has anything to say about it I'm all ears. Also, how 'bout them Monark nozzles???

Big thanks in advance to all the help and advice that anyone provides!

Stretch · #2 07-31-2014, 05:45 PM

I think you'll find the OM616 sits in a slightly different place than the OM617 - I don't think the arms are interchangeable - unless the bolts on the block are the place that makes the position adjustment <= may be that's how they did it. I'll see if I can dig out some part numbers for you if nobody else knows the answer...

...the power steering pump will be just fine the pulley sizes are the same

Buying a pop testing thing is a good idea but shop around for prices.

Junkman · #3 08-01-2014, 12:10 PM

I would make sure it won't be leaking. Take it down to the long block if necessary and change all of the hoses, gaskets and seals.

WVOPWRD! · #4 08-01-2014, 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

I'll see if I can dig out some part numbers for you if nobody else knows the answer...

Thank you, the p/n's for the 616 mounting arms are:

LEFT: 615 223 13 04
RIGHT: 615 223 14 04

If someone could please check the p/n's on a 617 and see if they correspond, that would be wonderful...

Thank you!

Stretch · #5 08-02-2014, 02:48 AM

The OM617 part numbers all seem to be 617 specific in these links

ENGINE SUPPORTS AND ATTACHMENT PARTS. Fits: 1983 Mercedes 300 TD TURBODIESEL Wagon | Mercedes-Benz of South Atlanta

Êàòàëîã MERCEDES

charmalu · #6 08-02-2014, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

I think you'll find the OM616 sits in a slightly different place than the OM617 - I don't think the arms are interchangeable - unless the bolts on the block are the place that makes the position adjustment <= may be that's how they did it. I'll see if I can dig out some part numbers for you if nobody else knows the answer...

...the power steering pump will be just fine the pulley sizes are the same

Buying a pop testing thing is a good idea but shop around for prices.

The OM616 and OM617 engines will bolt up to the same place on the body. The 240D has a space between the VC and Firewall that the extra cylinder on the OM617 will fill up.

You will need the Transmission X mount off a 240D auto or 280E, as the 240 manual mount will be too long, the 240/280 mount lines up perfect on the next set of 4 holes.

Be sure to check for any reference marks on the 617 FW and Crank before removing it. If no marks, put a chisel mark on both, then have the manual FW matched balanced to the auto FW.

Charlie

Stretch · #7 08-02-2014, 03:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charmalu

The OM616 and OM617 engines will bolt up to the same place on the body. The 240D has a space between the VC and Firewall that the extra cylinder on the OM617 will fill up.

You will need the Transmission X mount off a 240D auto or 280E, as the 240 manual mount will be too long, the 240/280 mount lines up perfect on the next set of 4 holes.

Be sure to check for any reference marks on the 617 FW and Crank before removing it. If no marks, put a chisel mark on both, then have the manual FW matched balanced to the auto FW.

Charlie

Thanks Charlie - I thought the OM616 has a bigger gap between the valve cover and the firewall like you say but I guess the transmission is also therefore further forward and so you need a longer front section on the propshaft. Do you know if the engine mount arms are the same on the OM616 and the OM617? The part numbers seem to suggest not.

ROLLGUY · #8 08-03-2014, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

Thanks Charlie - I thought the OM616 has a bigger gap between the valve cover and the firewall like you say but I guess the transmission is also therefore further forward and so you need a longer front section on the propshaft. Do you know if the engine mount arms are the same on the OM616 and the OM617? The part numbers seem to suggest not.

The reason the part #s are different may be that the damper shocks might be in a different spot. I did a turbo engine swap into an N/A car, and the arms fit just fine, but the holes for the shocks were in a different spot. The N/A engine had a bar bolted to the oil pan that had the upper shock mounts on it, but the turbo pan had no such mounting holes. I just deleted the shocks with no ill effects. You may have to get the turbo arms if you want the shock holes to be in the proper spot. Then again, there might not be the proper mounts for the bottom end of the shocks on the 240 body, even with the turbo arms......Rich

DeliveryValve · #9 08-03-2014, 11:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WVOPWRD!

...
I just picked up a mostly complete OM617.952 with good compression #'s from DeliveryValve (thanks again Richard!), and he was very willing to hook me up with whatever he had available to help with my swap!

...

Glad to help!

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

The reason the part #s are different may be that the damper shocks might be in a different spot. I did a turbo engine swap into an N/A car, and the arms fit just fine, but the holes for the shocks were in a different spot. The N/A engine had a bar bolted to the oil pan that had the upper shock mounts on it, but the turbo pan had no such mounting holes. I just deleted the shocks with no ill effects. You may have to get the turbo arms if you want the shock holes to be in the proper spot. Then again, there might not be the proper mounts for the bottom end of the shocks on the 240 body, even with the turbo arms......Rich

I have to agree with this about the shock position. Though not for certain, I would bet the 240 arms would work.

.

WVOPWRD! · #10 08-06-2014, 12:48 PM

Great, thank you for all of the info on the arms and shocks! I will definitely be making a p&p run soon for things like the x-member.

Just ordered a whole bunch of new gaskets and o-rings and such, for almost anything that comes in contact with an oil-bearing housing.

Have a quick question: need to mount this thing to my engine stand, but not sure what the bolts are as I have the engine only, and the tranny's still in my functioning 240.

They're M12 right? But what is the thread pitch? Never mounted an engine to a stand before, some of the bolts thread into the engine, but some into the transmission on these things? May just end up pulling one out of Marilyn to match pitches but if someone quickly knows...

WVOPWRD! · #11 08-08-2014, 12:56 PM

So, based on what I've read around, it seems like a good idea to remove the EGR in these things. I was hesitating because from what I've researched about TDI's the EGR delete can actually not be beneficial, and drop MPG's. There's the obvious intake cleaning thing, but you kinda just have to deal with that.

If there are no objections I'm gonna go about doing that. Easy enough to make block off plates.

The intake ports on the head are pretty gummed up on this new engine:

When I look in there there's gunk all over the valves and such, I'm wondering if it's a good idea to try and clean things out, or if I'm just asking for trouble by doing that? My thought was to - since I have the engine on a stand and can rotate it - turn it so that I can spray brake cleaner in the ports and have it drain out. I'm worried about loosening chunks though that would stay in there and get mashed by the valve. I don't really want to take the head off, though I am considering it, since I have the darn thing out already, but it has good compression and I'm thinking why mess with it if I don't need to? Anyone have experience cleaning the intake ports?

funola · #12 08-08-2014, 01:23 PM

Since you have the engine on a stand, it'd be easy to clean the ports. Do only the cylinders with both valves closed. Fill it with carb. cleaner which will dissolve the gunk. use a brass wire brush, drain, mob with cotton jean patch. Repeat if necessary. The idea of closed valves is to not get carbon trapped between valve seats which may bend the valve.

ROLLGUY · #13 08-08-2014, 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WVOPWRD!

So, based on what I've read around, it seems like a good idea to remove the EGR in these things. I was hesitating because from what I've researched about TDI's the EGR delete can actually not be beneficial, and drop MPG's. There's the obvious intake cleaning thing, but you kinda just have to deal with that.

If there are no objections I'm gonna go about doing that. Easy enough to make block off plates.

I have a kit available
For Sale: EGR Delete/Block-off Plate Kit

WVOPWRD! · #14 08-08-2014, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

I have a kit available
For Sale: EGR Delete/Block-off Plate Kit

Thank you, I'm pretty well-equipped for the general fabbing process, but your kit looks good and is priced well!

WVOPWRD! · #15 08-20-2014, 02:25 PM

Alright well, only minor updates really. Hours and hours of work cleaning the engine, power washing, degreasing, washing, etc. Almost finished replacing basically every seal and gasket everywhere. New lower oil pan and gasket. New front main seal. Manifold gasket, drain o-rings, etc. Removed the full load limiter in the IP while I had the oil filter housing off. Just need to grind down a 13mm wrench to also adjust the W/G. (yes, I will have gauges)

Would like to adjust pump timing to 26º as well, can someone point me towards an article that well explains this procedure? I read through this article, which has a lot of great info but it doesn't actually specify how to adjust timing.

EDIT: Read through a bunch of other timing threads (didn't realize it was one of those taboo subjects), and my only question is, to set to 26º do I just move the crank to that position and get it to 1 drip/sec.?

Only thing really left to do aside from that is make me a set of offset 14mm wrenches and adjust the valves. After that I'll begin yanking the 616, matching the flywheel, shortening the driveshaft, shift rods, etc.

Some pics of the process in the meantime, because we all know that most of us are here for the benz porn

Pulling the balancer:

Old seal:

Old spacer ring had a bit of a groove, I know you're supposed to replace it as it's a wear item, but I just flipped it around which provides a virgin surface for the new seal:

Tried to take a pic showing the groove out of harm's way:

New seal, I just pulled that top seal cover (or whatever it is) off of the block, and installed the new seal with spacer ring, then bolted the cover back on with a small amount of RTV. Didn't see any reason not to do it this way, saves from having to do the cup trick and such:

Cleaning up more:

Nice clean oil filter housing with new gaskets:

Pulling out full load limiter: