Just a comment, I jacked up my first 123 by that item, I immediately heard a creaking sound and dropped the floor jack.

I don't know if this occurs at all on any other vehicle, but I use the jack points now, no creaking.

When using a lift, you wouldn't be able to hear any creaking, as the sound of the lift is sure to drown out anything you would hear.

__________________
83 SD

84 CD

Yep

Well all I have to say to that is heat sink

The common image like this =>



Shows the bit that goes into the sub frame - the bit underneath the part in this picture is the bit you can see in the picture you posted (and then I linked)

Does that explain it?

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

If you jack in the middle of the stiffener =>



You can bend them - the big hole goes round the bullet shaped bolt that also goes through the bushing / mount but the small holes go to little captive nuts on the floor pan. This part of the floor pan is the place where all water that has made it inside the car comes to reside. It ends up being a weak place - I wouldn't be surprised if it creaked!

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Thanks Stretch, that was a long time in the past. I thought it was on the bolt, but can't swear to it.

That car was sold years ago.

__________________
83 SD

84 CD

Ahhh - I see - well that could just have been a loose bolt. The bolt is fitted to the chassis (of course) but the head is up against rubber which then is up against the chassis and the sub frame => lifting there might have made a squeak / creak if there was a bit of play in it.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

hmmm, call me dull, but I still dont get it... Where does the pyramid-like rubber piece fit in? Is it simply the middle of the large round rubber piece we see in the image of the new kit?, having come apart or torn off?


Thanks for the tips and images...

How about these pictures?

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

OK thanks for all the links. I guess IM taking my deep breath and tryin to plan this so I can get it done in a timely manner... (time...)

I like the looks of taking out the whole underside along with the trialing arms and differential in one shot. I Imagine this will be prett heavy thoug. Also Im thinking as this will be all taken apart and for the price, I may as well replace the trailing arm bushings.

Im hesitating to use my aquaintances shop as if I get stuck with some nasty major rusted out place in the body where the subframe is supposed to attach (obviously this seems to be the culprit) I may be taking up mmore of his shop time than is warranted...

I have unlimited access to a good spacious Garage but no lift, just the ordinary jack stands and a half-decent floor jack...

Gettin into that underframe area with a grinder etc... seems like it will be a pain..

Any shots of inside the frame where the bolt attaches? I guess I will need to fabricate a new fastener for this bolt. And also find the source of how all this rust came about and ptch it up as well.

I have the bushins, and I got a good quantity of the POR-15 Ive been reading so much about on these forums. (not easy to get in canada.) only one place I see sells it and its mail-order...)

Just did this on my 126 - we're here to help! Stretch's - and others' - posts were extremely helpful.I'd think I'd caution you to allow a bit more time than you estimate...

Very heavy, yes. While I was in there, I took the oppty to replace every bit of rubber I had access to; in addition to subframe mounts and trailing arms bushings, your diff mount almost certainly could use replacing - if only based on the kind of stress it's been suffering with that subframe twist. Are your axle boots in solid shape? I had one which had just started leaking - so my project quickly included: Rebuild/re-pack/re-boot axles, replace differential output seals, etc. Also replaced spring buffers while in there (have an extra set, if anybody needs 'em).

We should also speak of The Fear Which Shall Not Be Named(!): Be sure to fully inspect the trailing arms themselves for rust. To wit: If I had known to inspect (the spring cups in) mine about 10 yrs ago, I could have saved myself a lot of headache this summer!

Again, while it's all apart, there's probably no better time to remediate rust. I used: Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator, then Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black over that...

Well, hopefully not! The bullet bolt is threaded into a cylindrical 'guide'; not quite a simple fastener. normally, that mountpoint for the subframe pushing is protected from water by a large, washer-like rubber bushing above the subframe; this closes off the space between the subframe and body. Hopefully you've been lucky...Yes, true here in the Lower 48, too!

__________________
'83 300 SD
'05 E320 4Matic
'06 BMW 530 xi
'68 Triumph TR 250 - The only car I ever loved more than the Mercedes; who needs electricity, anyway? - Damn, why did I sell it?!
'59 Jaguar 3.4 'Le Chat Noir' - Damn, why did I sell it?!

It's difficult to make predictions, especially about the future.
- Niels Bohr

I hope Ive been lucky too, but how would the bolt be releasing with the plate and bushing as shown in the pictures if it wasnt completely rusted out?

Perhaps the threaded section is still good but where it fastens to on the underframe is rusted?

The little cylindrical nub that sticks out, showing in the picture that Stretch posted of his underbody with subframe removed, is this the actual part where the threads are? or are they further up in the body?

They're further up inside the body in a closed cavity...

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

hmmm, doesnt sound so lucky to me...

Stretch's photos there were to show you just how bad they can look! His were completely ripped apart - the central body of the bushing separates from the outer ring, if you will; the bit which mounts into the subframe cup. Yes, little resemblance to a new one once it breaks (point us to the picture of what you ordered) - and there will be very little bushing going on at that point...

__________________
'83 300 SD
'05 E320 4Matic
'06 BMW 530 xi
'68 Triumph TR 250 - The only car I ever loved more than the Mercedes; who needs electricity, anyway? - Damn, why did I sell it?!
'59 Jaguar 3.4 'Le Chat Noir' - Damn, why did I sell it?!

It's difficult to make predictions, especially about the future.
- Niels Bohr

Well don't worry about it until it happens.

If I had access to a lift I would always do this job with it - rolling the subframe on wheels is a dream compared with struggling with it under a car on jack stands.

If you need an emergency solution for the situation where a car has no subframe and no rear wheels and there's no chassis left buy a large block of wood / make a wooden structure with a pallet (big blocks) and bolt this to a set of four heavy duty large wheel castors - you can then at least shove the car out of the workshop and the lift...

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

OK so Im doing this tomorrow! (at least starting) I hope I have everything I need.

Stretch, it look like the picture in post #22 the plate that fastens to the bushing is upside down no?

I will have a lift at my disposal in my mechanic aquantiance/friends garage. I hope to do this relatively quickly with his help as I will be payinng him for his part in it...but he will be doing other work and simply be available for assistance if needed.

I'm doing the trailing arm bushings at the same time, even though they don't look too bad, I have no Idea if and when they were changed.

After this Ill be going to get an alignment again.

Any last words of Wisdom?