w201 2.5 turbo, multiple issues - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

vstech · #16 07-17-2014, 03:01 PM

nice tip

I just noticed, the forum's system clock is off by 3 minutes...
I actually posted this tip at 2:04, but the time on the post says 201 (eastern standard time that is...)

lewda · #17 07-18-2014, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mannys9130

Does it say F or C?

I only ask because 16 Celsius is about 60 F. A nice day is around 20 C or so. My 93 190E displayed in F but my 84 190D displays in C. Mine isn't very accurate either, and I ignore it. I deleted the display in my sister's 190D because the cluster housing I installed came from a Euro 2.0D and didn't have the spot for it.

I guess if you have a perfect garage queen car, the display might be of concern. Most of us have bigger fish to fry though.

That's the way it goes most of the time...

it def says F, haha, i knew someone was gonna ask me that

lewda · #18 07-18-2014, 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mxfrank

When you replace the motor mounts, inspect the front of the oil pan. With the 2.5, the engine settles onto the swaybar when the MM's collapse. You can wear a hole in the pan if it goes on too long.

Will def check that.

So a very lame update, my parts finally arrived!

So, tonight i will start the tear down and do all fluids and such. Anyone have any recommendations on oil weight? I always used 0w40 on my last 2.5, but it wasnt turbo. I may just end up using 0w40

jay_bob · #19 07-18-2014, 12:12 PM

Oil discussion on here is almost as bad as political/religious discussion

Just make sure you use a Diesel-rated oil. Depending on the region of the country you are in, you could still be using this oil when it gets cold so choose wisely.

lewda · #20 07-18-2014, 01:35 PM

yeah, this is what i was planning on using

jay_bob · #21 07-18-2014, 01:44 PM

good choice

vstech · #22 07-18-2014, 01:55 PM

Most pre-98 vehicles use 5w40, not the 0w... Just a touch more viscosity for the older motors

compress ignite · #23 07-19-2014, 04:24 AM

Unless you live north of the Artitic Circle
AND only drive the MB from November to March.

The 0 W 40 is TOO "Light"an oil for the 2.5L

5 W 40 is the Minimum acceptable for the older engines.

Sorry about the links...
I post them,then go back and see if they work after logging out and then back
in (After closing and reopening the browser) and They Do work. (Then)
The Only conclusion I've come to is "Manipulation" of the links After the Fact
by the Website.

Mxfrank · #24 07-19-2014, 08:23 AM

STOP! PLEASE! Not another hand waving oil thread.

jay_bob · #25 07-19-2014, 10:18 AM

Everyone is right about 5w-40 being the minimum. I was posting from my phone and didn't see the 0w-40 at the bottom.

lewda · #26 07-19-2014, 11:38 AM

Haha, ok the great oil debate will end here with this reply, I ended up getting 5w40 turbo diesel oil MB1.

Started most of the prep last night draining fluids taking apart the plumbing to the turbo, and man, the pipe to the blowoff/waste gate was completely blocked off with oil and grime, wonder how it even functioned??? It still holds a vaccuum so I at least have that going for me.

I figured out what all that crappy wire tapping into the fuse box was, some wonderful 90's style phone speaker and microphone set up....now trashed.

lewda · #27 07-19-2014, 01:14 PM

mid-work

lewda · #28 07-19-2014, 07:36 PM

I don't think this car has ever been serviced, of course I have no records to prove it, I honestly think it may have been parked after 65k miles. This thing still has all factory parts on it in regards to filters and such. Don't think the fuel filter has ever been changed.

Still attempting to bleed the system out after changing the diesel fuel filter.

Mxfrank · #29 07-19-2014, 11:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lewda

Started most of the prep last night draining fluids taking apart the plumbing to the turbo, and man, the pipe to the blowoff/waste gate was completely blocked off with oil and grime, wonder how it even functioned??? It still holds a vaccuum so I at least have that going for me.

The waste gate almost never opens on these....with the 2.65 rear, you're never revving high enough for that to happen. A suggestion: draw a vacuum on the waste gate servo and make sure the rod is actually moving: the waste gates move so infrequently that they can be frozen in place with soot and rust. If this is the case, you can tap the actuating lever gently until it frees up.

If the waste gate line is clogged, your manifold is full of tar. Evenutally, you should plan on removing the intake manifold and cleaning it out thoroughly...it's a miserable job, like cleaning up a tar spill. Until then, locate the boost sensor and the Alda hose fitting located on the left side of the intake manifold. Take them out and clean with carb cleaner or gasoline until the bores are completely clear.

Bleeding. The system is self priming, which is a bit of a joke because it takes forever. The easiest way to do is to fill the primary filter with fresh fuel before you install it. It will start up immediately, then die. The initial shot from the primary filter will cut the crank time in half. Then crank for ten seconds, rest for ten, crank for ten. It shouldn't take too many cycles to get it going.

lewda · #30 07-20-2014, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mxfrank

The waste gate almost never opens on these....with the 2.65 rear, you're never revving high enough for that to happen. A suggestion: draw a vacuum on the waste gate servo and make sure the rod is actually moving: the waste gates move so infrequently that they can be frozen in place with soot and rust. If this is the case, you can tap the actuating lever gently until it frees up.

If the waste gate line is clogged, your manifold is full of tar. Evenutally, you should plan on removing the intake manifold and cleaning it out thoroughly...it's a miserable job, like cleaning up a tar spill. Until then, locate the boost sensor and the Alda hose fitting located on the left side of the intake manifold. Take them out and clean with carb cleaner or gasoline until the bores are completely clear.

Bleeding. The system is self priming, which is a bit of a joke because it takes forever. The easiest way to do is to fill the primary filter with fresh fuel before you install it. It will start up immediately, then die. The initial shot from the primary filter will cut the crank time in half. Then crank for ten seconds, rest for ten, crank for ten. It shouldn't take too many cycles to get it going.

The valve def moves, dunno if it actually works under vacuum? I took the plumbing pipe out to the turbo from the manifold, and yeah, that thing was covered, the manifold itself was somewhat dirty of course. I have a parts washer, but we just moved and it not full and the local auto store doesnt carry and parts cleaner for it, so ill have to just wait and get it near my work. I plan on taking the manifold out at some point soon, and I may just go ahead and replace the glow plugs while the manifold is out.

It totally skipped my mind to fill the primary filter, so yeah....i just ended up last night hooking up the battery charger and turning the motor over ever so often, it fired up first thing this morning though.

So the real update, the car still shutters at shut off, just not as bad as before, so I am still unsure if its attributed to bad motor mounts? The oil pan is about 1/2 an inch away from the sway bar, not sure what the actual distance is supposed to be. Fuel pressure gauge was related to the oil being way over filled and is functioning properly now. No update on the tach, still acting crazy. Fan clutch is dead, no resistance at all.

I just bought this hoping it will do some good