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  #1  
Old 05-30-2014, 12:10 PM
WVOPWRD!'s Avatar
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Location: Woodacre, CA
Posts: 99
W123 Ball Joint install tool

***Edit: Adding links here to the useful BJ threads, thank you to those who contributed them.

Ball joint replacement using HF kit and home made adapter

Red neck lower ball joint removal

Write up - Ball Joints & Lower Control Arm Bushings & Tool Review (PICS!)


Hi all,
In the process of going through the front end, ball joints were burnt toast, super squeaky and sloppy. New ones here today (Lemforder). Am considering doing the job myself and making a viable press. Poooossssibly buying a Harbor Freight press, or a parts store loaner.

***NOTE: Yes, I've searched. I write this intending to compile a database of what actually works, from experience, and to see what folks have come up with in the past in terms of tool-fabrication. That said by all means link a good thread if you have or maybe know of one.

I've heard so many mixed opinions on what will and won't work and I'd appreciate hearing from folks who HAVE DONE THIS JOB THEMSELVES. Please refrain from "I've heard _____ _____ works."

The local highly acclaimed MBenz place wanted like ~$300 to press old ones out and new ones in. I said, "okay, thanks." I don't think I'll call them back though. I know it's a tough job but it seems like 1) it's been done for less from what I've heard, and 2) it is a possible DIY with the "right" tools.

Thinking that with my grinder, welder, varying sizes of pipe laying around, hydraulic jack, and ample supplies of interesting language I can get it done. I also wouldn't mind a pre-made tool.

Is it feasible to do this with the rotors still attached or am I better off to remove them? I've heard of folks drilling out the bottom of the BJ's and pounding out with a hammer? Any and all advice appreciated....

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'83 240D 4 spd. manual - Undergoing OM617 transplant - Soon for sale.

'97 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins 4x4 5-spd. WVO - Not stock. - For sale!

'06 Sprinter

Last edited by WVOPWRD!; 05-30-2014 at 04:23 PM.
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  #2  
Old 05-30-2014, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WVOPWRD! View Post
I know it's a tough job but it seems like 1) it's been done for less from what I've heard...
With the proper MB press, installing the ball joints is a five-minute job. And no extraordinary effort is required. (Spindles off the car and old joint removed.)

Quote:
Originally Posted by WVOPWRD! View Post

Is it feasible to do this with the rotors still attached or am I better off to remove them? I've heard of folks drilling out the bottom of the BJ's and pounding out with a hammer? Any and all advice appreciated....
There is no need to drill anything. Knock the old joints out with a hammer and mandrel. (Which is precisely what the FSM calls for.) Do remove the rotors first.
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  #3  
Old 05-30-2014, 12:59 PM
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Good info in this thread that is currently running.


W126 lower ball joint installation tool

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #4  
Old 05-30-2014, 01:16 PM
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ive taken mine to just a good old independant mechanic shop with press tools and had the job done for 30$ a side before.

i'd maybe shop around for another shop to do the press work first before you get into the DIY.
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  #5  
Old 05-30-2014, 01:45 PM
WVOPWRD!'s Avatar
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There's a good link in Charmalu's referenced thread too, that I believe he also linked there:

Write up - Ball Joints & Lower Control Arm Bushings & Tool Review (PICS!)

Ok, so rotor removal IS necessary? Was trying to get away from it, don't feel like buying a dial indicator but I guess doing the WB's is a good idea anyway...
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'83 240D 4 spd. manual - Undergoing OM617 transplant - Soon for sale.

'97 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins 4x4 5-spd. WVO - Not stock. - For sale!

'06 Sprinter
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  #6  
Old 05-30-2014, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WVOPWRD! View Post
Hi all,
In the process of going through the front end, ball joints were burnt toast, super squeaky and sloppy. New ones here today (Lemforder). Am considering doing the job myself and making a viable press. Poooossssibly buying a Harbor Freight press, or a parts store loaner.

***NOTE: Yes, I've searched. I write this intending to compile a database of what actually works, from experience, and to see what folks have come up with in the past in terms of tool-fabrication. That said by all means link a good thread if you have or maybe know of one.

I've heard so many mixed opinions on what will and won't work and I'd appreciate hearing from folks who HAVE DONE THIS JOB THEMSELVES. Please refrain from "I've heard _____ _____ works."

The local highly acclaimed MBenz place wanted like ~$300 to press old ones out and new ones in. I said, "okay, thanks." I don't think I'll call them back though. I know it's a tough job but it seems like 1) it's been done for less from what I've heard, and 2) it is a possible DIY with the "right" tools.

Thinking that with my grinder, welder, varying sizes of pipe laying around, hydraulic jack, and ample supplies of interesting language I can get it done. I also wouldn't mind a pre-made tool.

Is it feasible to do this with the rotors still attached or am I better off to remove them? I've heard of folks drilling out the bottom of the BJ's and pounding out with a hammer? Any and all advice appreciated....
$300 to press old BJ's out and new ones in? One side or both sides? If the price includes labor and parts both sides if you drive the car in and drive out it's not so bad. If you have to hand him the steering knuckle and he knocks out the old BJ and press in the new BJ that you supply for $300, that is highway robbery.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
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  #7  
Old 05-30-2014, 02:16 PM
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It was the highway robbery version, me supplying parts..
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'83 240D 4 spd. manual - Undergoing OM617 transplant - Soon for sale.

'97 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins 4x4 5-spd. WVO - Not stock. - For sale!

'06 Sprinter
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  #8  
Old 05-30-2014, 02:24 PM
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Probably means they were saying "no" to the job, in a constructive manner. Same as saying yes to some fiddly little no-profit job, then saying they can't book you in for six weeks.

I have inquired around here, two shops refused to do it outright (that is with me bringing the special tool and the parts and the knuckle ready to receive the new balljoint).

The local highline independent wants $110 'cash only pls' for it (they have the MBz tool of course).

I am going to continue asking around as I object to passing someone $110 for 20 minutes(?) work, which I know is going to end up split between the guys at the front desk for beer money.
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2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22
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  #9  
Old 05-30-2014, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WVOPWRD! View Post
It was the highway robbery version, me supplying parts..
You were smart to walk.

Depending how rusted the BJ is in the steering knuckle, it can be easy or next to impossible to knock out with a hammer. There was a forum member who held the knuckle in one hand and a hammer in the other and got it out that way- that's easy. There are reported cases of mechanics who had to use oxy-acetylene to burn a hole through the BJ because hammering didn't work- that's hard.

My method on BJ removal is easy to set up, does not require a monster vise on a massive steel bench and very satisfying. Red neck lower ball joint removal

To install the BJ DIY, I think the easiest way is follow the writeup and make a collar for the BJ, borrow the BJ press tool from Autozone and help it with a hammer. Someone will come up with the link for the wretup.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Last edited by funola; 05-30-2014 at 02:36 PM.
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  #10  
Old 05-30-2014, 03:48 PM
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Here is another approach to installing the Ball Joint, as ROLLGUY did.

Ball joint replacement using HF kit and home made adapter


Charlie
__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #11  
Old 05-30-2014, 04:05 PM
funola's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
Here is another approach to installing the Ball Joint, as ROLLGUY did.

Ball joint replacement using HF kit and home made adapter


Charlie
That's the one!
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #12  
Old 05-30-2014, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zacharias View Post
Probably means they were saying "no" to the job, in a constructive manner. Same as saying yes to some fiddly little no-profit job, then saying they can't book you in for six weeks.

I have inquired around here, two shops refused to do it outright (that is with me bringing the special tool and the parts and the knuckle ready to receive the new balljoint).

The local highline independent wants $110 'cash only pls' for it (they have the MBz tool of course).

I am going to continue asking around as I object to passing someone $110 for 20 minutes(?) work, which I know is going to end up split between the guys at the front desk for beer money.
The cheapest DIY that works is in the Pic below using the free rental C Press from Autozone or another Parts Place (make sure it is not buggered up by the last user).

You need to remove the Boot From the Ball Joint and when I did it I did not make a Washer to go between the Ball Joint and the Press and that resulsted in some missalignment bacause on the Leforeder Joint the top is rounded and the press wants to slide to one side or the other.

That task would have been a lot easier with the Washer Between the part and the Press because it would have allowed for a flat surface.

The Harbor Freight Version of the C press could have been had for $27 when on sale several Years ago. Now the price has doubled. That makes the free rental more attractive then before.

Not in the Pic I was using the Pipe Coupling as a spacer but only at the very end of the pressing job. That was because the Cast Piece in the kit that came with the Press was rather crude and I wanted to make sure the Joint went all the way in.
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W123 Ball Joint install tool-bj-c-press-4-may-14.jpg  
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  #13  
Old 05-30-2014, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
Not in the Pic I was using the Pipe Coupling as a spacer but only at the very end of the pressing job. That was because the Cast Piece in the kit that came with the Press was rather crude and I wanted to make sure the Joint went all the way in.
Interesting piece of info there. I should check out our local auto parts place that rents stuff. I had previously purchased a basic balljoint clamp kit but none of the adapters was even close to working on the Mercedes. Obviously the one you got was better equipped.

For the piece of pipe I see in the pic, is that a 2" electrical conduit joint?
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2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22
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  #14  
Old 05-30-2014, 06:04 PM
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It's a galvanized sch. 40 coupling, I'd guess 2"?
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'83 240D 4 spd. manual - Undergoing OM617 transplant - Soon for sale.

'97 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins 4x4 5-spd. WVO - Not stock. - For sale!

'06 Sprinter
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  #15  
Old 05-30-2014, 06:33 PM
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I did it with the az or aa rental kit and some rocket scientist had welded mine in.

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