My car still has the original door seals and they are trashed. Please see the attached image for the selection of new door seals for this vehicle (w115 220d). It is a little hard to read, but basically URO is $35, Meyle is $43, and Genuine MB is $303 ($222 elsewhere). Yowza.

Any suggestions or advice? I have followed all the URO threads and hope I don't open a can of worms here.

Do you think the Meyle part is any better than the URO (or just the same part for more money)?

What failure modes would I expect to see with the URO part? I am vigilant with water leaks in my vehicle, so I am not too worried about that sneaking up on me. I have read that the door will be harder to close, but honestly that doesn't bother me.

For background, I am doing this for two reasons. To reduce water penetration into the vehicle and to reduce wind noise at highway speeds. The vehicle means a lot to me, but I am not ready to spend $1K on 4 pieces of rubber. That probably exceeds the value of my car (haha). Thanks for your help.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission.
My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear).

If it helps most of the reported trouble has been with non Mercedes windscreen rubbers

At the risk of someone flying over to Holland to remove my favourite body parts I say give the URO a go (Meyle probably just as bad!) and tell us how many days it lasts!

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Decision made - Meyle. If it fails, you won't know that it is as bad a URO, only that you had to experiment attempt tp avoid the MBZ price.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

A friend has had URO door seals all the way around on his car for a year. They are doing fine. They fit like the factory ones that were removed.

They are super easy to change out. Even if they only last a few years, you can get 10-20 years of URO seals for the same price as one Genuine seal.

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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino

http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg

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^^^^ What he said.

The concern over URO is understandable for mechanically critical or safety-related items (or where people have reported actual issues with a part).

For a door seal, I would give URO a shot.

If it's feasible, you could always order one, see how it looks and fits, then decide on ordering the remainder.

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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

I might look at EBay. Sometimes MB stuff shows up. Also, Lemforder. I bought some 'Lemforder' for a W123 240D. They had the MB trade marks on them. I think the fronts were $75-80 and the one rear was $50. I bought them, then bought a set of 4.
Tom

Thanks everyone for your thoughts. I have been checking ebay for months, and Lemfoerder/Lemforder seals don't seem to exist for the w115. There is a vendor selling some from Turkey which have received poor reviews here on PP. There is also someone selling some from Thailand which I know nothing about. But for the most part, it is URO, Meyle, or Genuine.

Call me crazy, but I think I am going to give URO a test run on one door and see how it goes. I found one for $30 shipped, so it is a pretty cheap experiment. I am going to try it on my rear left door (where my 1 y.o. daughter sits!), figuring that it won't get as much use as a front door. I will report back in this thread once I have it installed to let you know how it does. I just installed a used Genuine seal on the right rear door (my son's) from the junk yard, so I have a sense for how the installation should go. If the URO is much more difficult to install or not shaped right, I will let folks know. Of course, this would only apply to the w115, but perhaps would be applicable to the w123.

Gerryvz, I am sorry for going to the dark side by putting my first URO part on my car. I promise to never do so for any mechanical or structural part. I have already been "burned" by Meyle suspension parts and no-name exhaust hangers.

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1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission.
My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear).

Look out. Gerry and his contingent are not known for their forgiveness of heretics.



You cannot hide.

(But, as for me, I am with you.)

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1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."

Good choice. It is a no brainer.

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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Oh, that wacky Jooseppi!

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1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission.
My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear).

The URO door seal (left rear) arrived today. First impressions are mixed. It has all the necessary contours of the OE seal, but it is missing the small pieces of fabric at the high wear areas. The rubber is similar to the OE seals that I have worked with in terms of density and elasticity. There is a small manufacturing error on mine where a one cut doesn't line up with another cut, so there is an extra tiny flap of rubber. But 20 seconds with a pair of scissors should fix that. I think it will end up being completely adequate. Nothing spectacular and nothing dreadful. Given the highly worn condition of my vehicle, the URO door seal is sadly an improvement. Gosh, that is depressing given the reputation of URO on this site.

Unfortunately, in removing the ancient, crusty old seals, I discovered rust on the bottom of the door. I know, all you experienced folks could have told me that ahead of time. Anyway, the inside of the door rusted through to the bottom, so perhaps some of the drains were clogged. The window seals/wiper things are also trashed on my car, so I assume the interior of the door gets a lot more water and dirt exposure than it was supposed to. Anyway, the rust hole is small and nothing a little fiberglass and POR-15 won't fix. But it will be a few days until I get around to that. So it will be a few days before I can report back on the install process of a URO rear door seal. I know everyone is on the edge of their seats.

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1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission.
My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear).

Will he also buy a URO window seal to stop the water from entering the door (for a few hours)?


Oh the suspense!

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

URO is no worse and may even be better than Meyle these days. Most every Meyle part I see is made in Taiwan, China, India...you know, anywhere they can exploit cheap labor and materials.

Then the cheap arse Americans buy it..

Several years ago, this when BIGBABBO was selling on e-bay, some of you may remember him. He is gone now, passed away.

I bought a set of door seals for the 85 300D, the fronts were badly cracked and a lot of wind noise, but they did not leak water.

I installed the new seals, came in a plastic bag w/o and country of manufacture as I remember. Just the MB Part# on a piece of paper.

I got them on, used new plastic push pins on the front part of the door by the upper hinge. These did not have the cloth on the wear parts as SHOTRSGUY mentioned.

The doors are harder to close as the new rubber is thicker than the old 30 yr dried out stuff. It looks good....but......when I went through a car wash, I might as well had the windows down. Water poured in along the top. Good thing we had some towels with us at the time.

The dealer part is the best option, or just don`t go through car washes or get the car wet.

As far as to the rust on the bottom edge of the door. I believe it is just from water, salt, road debris thrown up under the door over the years and being behind the rubber and not drying out. Then eventually over the years rust develops undetected until it shows it`s ugly head.

The seal is in a groove in the door all the way around, only glued on around the hinge area and the bottom corner

I have rust on my Passenger front door along the bottom on the 80 240D. I`ll just replace it with a good one from PNP and paint it, but first strip the bottom and POR it, do the other prep work and paint it the color.

The dealer parts are the best to use, but how long are the majority here on the Forum really going to keep these cars? Long term or just a passing fancy, or something to use as a beater because it is an old car, something that will burn anything because it will for a while?

I know the door seals for the 123`s are over $200 each. The front rear window seals go up and down in price for some reason, last time I checked they are back up in price. maybe the Door Seals go up and down too, buy low.

I use our local dealer here in Monterey Ca. and use their whole sale site to check prices. www.benzpartswholesale.com


Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

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