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#1
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1985 W123 300CDT Electrical Short - Windows blowing #2 Fuse
I just bought this 300CD and spent the last few weeks doing all the recommended service and maintenance myself to get it in good shape.
Im nearing the end of my restoration and have a problem with an electrical short. When the car is on and I'm operating the windows fuse #2 blows. This causes not only the devices listed on fuse #2 to not receive power but it causes the windows and hazards to stop working also. I had the radio, antenna, clock, visor mirrors, all out at one point and this problem persisted. I also replaced the drivers door switch. Why are the windows affecting an unrelated circuit (they are on fuse a and b)? Similarly, why is fuse #2 causing the separate window circuits to lose power, once they cause it to blow? Could I have a frayed window motor wire in the door post? Im duped. ![]() |
#2
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Fuse #2 powers the power windows relay which powers fuse a & b. When fuse #2 blows, all windows stop working.
__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#3
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I replaced the relay behind the cluster with one pulled at the junkyard. Still popped #2. The windows move up and down but if you hold the button for too long after they are either all the way up or down - thats when it blows.
Quote:
" clock, trunk light, diagnostic, switch- over valve seat back arrester, roof light front + rear, hazard warning system, autom. antenna, illuminated vanity mirror, warning monitor term. 5, (electronic radio) " no mention of windows or window relay for #2...? I'm looking at this schematic and getting more confused. it says they go from fuse 12 but doesn't show the relay or fuses a and b. what am i missing here? |
#4
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i was thinking it could be in the drivers multi switch. there appears to be no ground to the driver side rear window switch (where the sunglasses arm is pointing). is this normal?
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#5
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Window motors are not grounded. The window switches reverse polarity to the motors so they can go up or down. You need to look at the wiring diagram for the power windows on 82 or older model years.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#6
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Forget the power distribution. It is missing info. You need to look at the diagram for the power windows, which is only found in 82 and older wiring diagrams. With that diagram you should be able to find where the short is.
Fuses a & b are 16 A, but fuse 2, which supplies power to fuses a & b through a relay, is only 8 A. That's why (when there's a short) only fuse 2 blows since it is lower A than fuses a & b.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#7
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Quote:
This is what I would do to confirm: 1) Remove fuse a and fuse b. 2) Check any window still operates, if any one does then the wiring had been changed. Make a note on which window operates. 3) Put a back in and see which window operates. 4) Put b back in and see which window operates. You can get a W123 Haynes manual for $20 and it has the wiring diagram. May be the window relay is by-passed.
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed. ![]() W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html 1 X 2006 CDI 1 x 87 300SDL 1 x 87 300D 1 x 87 300TDT wagon 1 x 83 300D 1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry. |
#8
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1. Pull the window relay first, if the windows still work, wiring is not original.
2. Pull fuse #12. If windows still work, wiring is not original. Work the windows and see if fuse #2 still blows. 3. Pull fuses a, b. If windows still work, wiring is really messed up.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked Last edited by funola; 04-13-2014 at 02:33 PM. |
#9
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The windows should work just fine with Fuse #2 not installed. Mine certainly do.
Or did you mean to say Fuse #12, again?
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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl. |
#10
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hi again,
first of all thanks for the input just to clarify: *talking about all four windows working normally and all four individually popping #2 when reach all the way up or down *also pops #2 if you roll more than one window at a time *i had a friend sitting shotgun blow the fuse on accident yesterday so its not from operator error its definitely looking like a wiring thing. (ahem tangofox you were right) pulled fuses a and b... windows still worked and blew #2 when reached all the way up or down. pulled relay... windows still worked and blew #2 when reached all the way up or down. pulled fuse #12... windows still worked and blew #2 when reached all the way up or down. the rabbit hole just got deeper. ![]() going to hunt down a haynes manual in my area. |
#11
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Quote:
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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl. |
#12
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Don't tell be what 'should' and 'should not' happen.
Quote:
__________________
Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed. ![]() W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html 1 X 2006 CDI 1 x 87 300SDL 1 x 87 300D 1 x 87 300TDT wagon 1 x 83 300D 1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry. |
#13
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That would be my first place to look.
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#14
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unplugged:
trunk light switchover valve - vacuum transducer switchover valve - boost pressure aneroid roof light front + rear visor mirrors radio still blew that leaves: clock diagnostic switchover valve seat back arrester hazard warning system antenna warning monitor term. 5 aside from the clock and antenna i dont know how to disconnect these to check for short. not even sure what these are let alone how to disconnect: diagnostic switchover valve seat back arrester warning monitor term. 5 thanks for your replies |
#15
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Per the 1982 Electrical Troubleshooting Manual, power to operate the windows should not go through Fuse 2. The hot-at-all-times wire to Fuse a & b is terminated on the upstream side of Fuse 2. Any chance somebody re-engineered your fuse box and connected the window power on the wrong side of Fuse 2?
Quote:
Even a Ford engineer would know better than to design a circuit like that!!!
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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl. Last edited by tangofox007; 04-11-2014 at 11:15 AM. |
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