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  #16  
Old 04-08-2014, 03:33 PM
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There is a seal between the tank and the body, not a gasket. Make sure the seal is in good condition and the contact surfaces are clean. You will have no problems or leaks.

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2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic
2007 ML 320 CDI
2007 Leisure Travel Serenity
2006 Sprinter 432k
2005 E320 CDI
1998 SLK230 (teal)
1998 SLK230 (silver)
1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO
Previous:
1983 240D, on WVO
1982 300D, on WVO
1983 300CD, on WVO
1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix
1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO
1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO
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  #17  
Old 04-08-2014, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregMN View Post
There is a seal between the tank and the body, not a gasket.
What are the characteristics of said seal which categorically exclude it from being reasonably described as a gasket?

gas·ket noun \ˈgas-kət\
: a piece of rubber or some other material that is used to make a tight seal between two parts that are joined together
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  #18  
Old 04-08-2014, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregMN View Post
There is a seal between the tank and the body, not a gasket. Make sure the seal is in good condition and the contact surfaces are clean. You will have no problems or leaks.
Seal= gasket. Different manufacturers name it differently. Call it what you want, but using the old part will ensure a leak. It is not worth the expense and effort to use the old seal/gasket/rubber thing between the two parts.
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  #19  
Old 04-08-2014, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
What are the characteristics of said seal which categorically exclude it from being reasonably described as a gasket?

gas·ket noun \ˈgas-kət\
: a piece of rubber or some other material that is used to make a tight seal between two parts that are joined together
Thank you. You typed faster than I did!
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  #20  
Old 04-08-2014, 05:01 PM
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My use of the words seal and gasket:
A gasket is a one time use.
A seal can be re-used.

An example would be:
A valve cover gasket made of cork, as found on many older American V-8's. Usually "glued" in place in the valve cover.
A valve cover seal made of rubber, as found on a 617, 60x. Never "glued" into place because it is meant to be re-used.

I would always replace a gasket.
I would re-use a seal, if it is still viable.

The "seal" on the radiator is a large rubber o-ring. If it is still viable, there is no reason to replace it.

So, how many of the responders to this thread have ever replaced the top tank on a Behr radiator?
I did, 2 years ago and thousands of miles ago.
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Greg
2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic
2007 ML 320 CDI
2007 Leisure Travel Serenity
2006 Sprinter 432k
2005 E320 CDI
1998 SLK230 (teal)
1998 SLK230 (silver)
1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO
Previous:
1983 240D, on WVO
1982 300D, on WVO
1983 300CD, on WVO
1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix
1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO
1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO
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  #21  
Old 04-08-2014, 05:28 PM
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Location: Northeastern Massachusetts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mesalm View Post
I have the same problem and have bought the top radiator end. I am going to try do do it myself. It can be done. The radiator shop quoted me $80 to replace the top with his clamping machine. I am going to try wood pipe screw clamps to squeeze it while I bend the tabs back.
I should correct myself. I said I was quoted $80 from a radiator shop to "replace" the plactic radiator end. That was accually $80 to install my plastic radiator end. The parts were on me at $17 for the end and gasket /seal for like $2.

I really like the idea memeber GregMn gave about the straps to pull it back together thats a lot better than pipe clamps.
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  #22  
Old 04-09-2014, 03:34 AM
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I know I am all alone on this....but....I would replace the radiator...not try to band aid it...

People seem to think that the radiator's sole purpose is to cool the engine and if there isn't a visible leak or noticeable temp difference all is fine in the radiator world...

But...

lurking way down in the depths of the radiator, a place rarely seen is the elusive transmission cooler...

Now after 25+ years...things tend to float to the bottom and gather on the cooler....thus lessening the effective cooling for the transmission...

If this happens to spring a leak, your coolant will flow into the transmission....thus killing the trans and the radiator....causing upwards of 3k in damage....which could have been avoided if the radiator was simply replaced..

And also don't for get to add zerek G05 coolant....yes this is the devil tempting you with a specialty coolant, cost the same as the neon green....let the debate begin
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  #23  
Old 04-09-2014, 09:05 PM
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I definitely believe in getting a new radiator as well, especially if it's the stock radiator. It's just unfortunate that the fragile necks are the reason to get a new radiator and not due to the radiators inability to function correctly.

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