hi all
here is my vacuum pump on my 92 om 602 i think its a old style one with the bearing grenade thing , how do i test it without the car running? should i replace/rebuild it since i have it torn down what should i do with this thing
kenny

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I would take it off and see if the bearings are covered or not. IIRC, it's actually more expensive to rebuild a VP than but a rebuilt one, so if it needs replacement, I would just buy another unless you want to rebuild it . If the VP looks good, you might just replace the bearing with a covered one -- I think a new bearing is ~$30.

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Replace it with the updated unit, that one is a grenade waiting to go off..


Here is what happens when it fails
1992 300D 2.5 vacuum pump "FAILURE" ball bearings fell into timing chain


.

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https://www.boldegoist.com/

That appears to be older style.

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I agree, old style.

if the outer cover was bolted on, instead of crimped on, it COULD be a newer style, but may not be. that is CERTAINLY an older style.
I have heard that the bearing can be replaced if caught before it fails and damages the ramp.

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You're thinking 61X. The 60X is more like $300. And any rebuilding won't change the fact that the early style does not have a caged bearing.

OP, you have the early style.

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ok so i have to replace this vacuum pump,my haynes book for the car says to pretty much just unbolt it,is that all i need to do ?

cheers

kenny

The way the device works is there is a little roller coaster track inside (ok think a kiddie roller coaster at the county fair). The roller on the vacuum pump rides around the track and bobs up and down. If you happen to have the engine stopped in a location that the roller is on top of one of the "hills", it will be very difficult to remove because of the stress being placed on the bolts due to the springs being compressed on the roller arm.

So if you start backing off the bolts (go evenly in a criss cross pattern) and you feel pressure building then stop. Get a 27 mm socket on a breaker and rotate the engine (clockwise only!) until you feel the tension release. Now you are in a low spot. Then take the bolts the rest of the way out and swap it over.

Your new pump's roller will no doubt be sitting at a different angle, so when you go to put the new one on, you might need to again rotate the engine to get the new roller in a low spot on your gear track.

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2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
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thanks jay bob my book said nothing about any of that i am looking for a good used one(thats not $500 like a new one )

Unfortunately this is one of those things you don't want to go cheap on. It will kill your engine if it fails and that will be a lot more than $500...

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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

Jay Bob is right, DON'T GO CHEAP. It will most likely be a huge catastrophe if the potential used vacuum pump went wrong. It will cost you either a crate motor or an overhaul and major headaches.

Do it right or don't do it all. Just sayin'.

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On my 92, records show VP was replaced at about 45k miles....and it has the four bolts. Can I be confident that it's the newer style? FWIW I'm guessing that 45k miles was probably in 1995 or 1996.

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I replaced the one on my 190DT at 325,000 miles, so they can go quite a ways. I did a photo essay on the other list:

Vacuum pump - Mercedes-Benz Forum

Important points:
- Although not strictly necessary, removing the shroud, fan blade, and tensioner will improve access.
- Remove the pump carefully...leave two screws in and remove them a turn at a time. The spring pressure is very high, and can strip the last screw.
- If your engine still has a timing basket installed, it will have to be removed because it will interfere with the new gasket. This will be obvious after the pump is out.
- To get it back in more easily, rotate the engine until the "roller track" is at it's low point.
- Don't install the vacuum line, start the car First. Feed a couple of ounces of oil directly into the vacuum port. Then stop the car and reinstall the vacuum line.

Can you just replace the bearing on them?

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I don't know if the Point is in the way or not but if for some reason Pointer needs to be removed be sure to Mark it before removal.

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