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#1
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Hydraulic Hard Line Replacement with Flexible Hose
The steel lines running to the rear of my wagon are shot so I'm faced with replacing them. Gut check: it seems easier to replace them with flexible hoses than deal with trying to ben steel lines under the car (and having them rust out again some day). I'm thinking something like these thermoplastic lines: http://www.swseal.com/pdf/Polyflex.pdf
Things to consider are: (1) Pressure. Most of these hoses are designed for heavy industrial applications. I can't imagine the SLS system puts out near that much pressure. Does anyone know what the actual pressure is? (2) Temperature. If anything I would be worried about low temps making the hose less flexible. High temp shouldn't be an issue except for under the hood, but I'll leave that section of hose alone for now. (3) Chemical capatibility with the fluid. The fluid is mineral oil based, so according to the list on pg AB-16 here it should be fine with all their hoses. I can't find the specific fluid on their list. (4) Fittings. I haven't pulled the lines yet so I'm not sure what they look like but I don't expect any issues here. Could be wrong... I haven't done a cost analysis of the two options but would be happy to do so and share. If I go ahead with this I'll be sure to post plenty of photos and do a DIY walkthru. I've gotten lots of help on here reading through old threads so happy to contribute anything I can. |
#2
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I'd go with either steel line, or cunifer lines. the plastic, as you state, will be difficult in cold, fittings are likely to be an issue, and I DOUBT the price is comparable.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#3
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IIRC the pressure on those lines is pretty high. You should be able to make do with metal brake lines custom bent (yourself) and the appropriate fittings on the end. Try a decent hydraulic shop. Where are you located?
__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42 |
#4
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I know the pressure is above 250psi, as I blew out brand new 250 psi hose on my first attempt to repair my SLS...
I think the original hose is rated around 1000psi. I replaced the blown hose with 4000psi steel reinforced Gates G6 hose, and never had another leak, so the pressure is under 4000psi.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#5
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You could get lucky at a PNP and find some close to new ones for cheeep.
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1985 300D 198K sold 1982 300D 202K 1989 300E 125K 1992 940T "If you dont have time to do it safely, you dont have time to do it" "The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not." |
#6
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Answer
Quote:
This is a common issue I see on vegetable oil conversion cars, road debris = shredded plastic or rubber hoses.. FYI the SLS system can see pressure in the range of 650 PSI. .
__________________
ASE Master Mechanic https://whunter.carrd.co/ Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 2003 Volvo V70 https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#7
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I'm located on Long Island and luckily have a good hydraulic shop right down the road (Long Island Truck Parts). I'll take the old stuff out this weekend and head down there. I guess I'll probably end up going with some kind of metal line that they have, unless they recommend otherwise.
Thanks Whunter for the pressure rating. That's well under most of the high pressure hoses, as I suspected. And yeah, I can see road debris being a potential issue. |
#8
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What is the OD of the steel lines?
The greatest concern is gathering fittings that will work with your car. -4 ( 1/4" ID ) single wire 100R1AT hydraulic hose is good for about 3.200 PSI and is more flexible / smaller OD that 2 wire 100R2AT 5,800 PSI . ( This is the number of steel braid layers under the outer jacket.) -6 ( 3/8 ) is 2,600 and 4,800. |
#9
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Update: I replaced the steel lines and the system is holding and pumping fluid normally, so all good there. I used 1/4 inch line and had to bore out the fittings a bit to make them fit over it.
Ride height has not increased, so on to the next troubleshooting item... Also, when driving yesterday I had about 250 extra lbs in the car and when I first added it the ride all of the sudden got VERY rough. Lasted for about 5 mins then back to normal. I'll look on other SLS threads for advice but f anyone has thoughts feel free to share here. |
#10
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Quote:
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#11
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Yes I used the original fittings. They just didn't fit the US line.
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#12
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More details on how you got the fittings to work would be helpful for other members facing the same issue.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#13
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Of course!
So the OD of the line I got from the auto parts store is 1/4", but the ID of the fitting is a metric size slightly smaller than that (about 10 microns I think). So what you have to do to get the fitting to fit over the line is to just bore out the inside a little bit. You could drill it - starting with a 1/4" and then going to a 9/32" and trying it until you get it to fit. But I happened to have access to a pneumatic boring tool so used that. After that, fitting slid right on and I was able to flare the end and connect to the valve. |
#14
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The size would have been 6 mm
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#15
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I know this is an old thread, but..
What type of flare did you use?
I believe the stock flares are "bubble" flares, or reverse flares. If that's what you did, how did you make them? I'm facing the same issue. |
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