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#16
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Quote:
Thanks chap!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#17
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Hi stretch, many thanks for the guide. I'm following it at the minute to reseal my 16v box.
I've hit a little hiccup I think. On the input shaft I've removed all the Allen bolts, and the cap is now free spinning. I understand if I unwind it too much I will drop all the ball bearings, so not keen on that. In your picture you have a lump of wood to 'tap' off the cover (whilst winding in the input shaft) . This is the stage I'm at, I've tried tapping and I've tried wacking, but that working gear assembly with input shaft ain't coming out. It feels like it's against something solid. Did you have to hit it hard to remove? And certain that the valve is removed after the working arm? Not before (as it seems with w123) Thanks Think I'm going to have some fun removing the valve body cap too as I have the cast iron casing, which has nicely rusted it in place! |
#18
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If you look into the hole where the output shaft was you should be able to see the working piston assembly - perhaps a squirt of penetrating oil in there will help? There might be a bit of muck and oil suction working against you.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#19
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Can confirm that on my steering box the pressure relief valve needed to be removed in order to remove the working piston assembly.
Once removed the working piston slotted straight out. I've done I little damage to the tip of the larger sheath on the pressure relief assembly but I can't see it affecting how it works, I'll just file the damage off |
#20
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What I have learned as well is that the jeep rubicon uses a very similar, Mercedes working gear,
So more information about the w201 or w124 box can be found on the jeep rubicon forum. On this faq the jeep owner removes the 6notched nut with a punch, saying it's not too tight.... God knows how he tightened that to spec! http://www.rubiconownersforum.com/forums/25-rubicon-tips-techniques-write-ups/61757-steering-box-input-seal-replacement.html Last edited by Merc16v; 08-17-2015 at 07:34 PM. |
#21
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...it looks like I've made a mistake when writing up. If you look in the FSM (linked in the first post of this thread) it does indeed say to remove the valves first. The following schematic shows it too. I'll change the text in the post above and get a moderator to correct the cock up.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#22
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Yeah the pressure relief valve (61) assembly does need to be removed, the pressure control body(4), not so much, the flappy paddle from the working piston slots into the control valve, so it'll slot out.
I have a spare steering box so I can swap out a relief valve from that :-) |
#23
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Ah ha yes my memory is getting a bit clearer - one valve out and the cap for the other valve removed as shown in this picture in the left hand upper corner helped to get the big bit out =>
...and wind the cap out slightly to get a bit of space for a block of wood with out loosing your balls...
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#24
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Hi Stretch, can you check the FSM (I don't have access) for those torque values? I'm going off the manual 46-0236, it states the torque for the large 6notch nut is 280-320Ncm... but you have 220-240Nm I decided to try loosen the nut with a tap of the club hammer and a punch, and it came off after a solid touch (but not medium or heavy on the hammer scale). It allowed me to change the input shaft seal. and I've tightened it up with a few touches of the punch and club hammer. 300Ncm is like 3Nm, or 26.5 lb-in, its nothing |
#25
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The friction of the shaft is in newton centimeters but I can't see a Ncm friction torque in the FSM for that kind of number. If you look in post #1 you will see a link to the FSM on startekinfo - this is the whole chapter 46 PDF I'm a bit nervous for you now you've taken off that nut and have no way of applying the correct torque - you're gonna have to go for five white knuckles or more!
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#26
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Quote:
I can never seem to open starttekinfo, wants me to log in or something, and if I click your link in the first post it brings me to a page that says 'temporarily unavailable' In my last post I attached the 46-0236 which is the guide for the w201/124 input shaft seal. Step 20 in that guide definitely says 280-320Ncm for the large 6 notched nut Really, it took very little force to loosen it. |
#27
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Quote:
We could be talking about different things but in your PDF Nut 23 in the picture at the top of the second page => is specified at the top of page four with a higher torque!
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#28
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I think step 20 has a type error.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#29
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We are definitely talking about the same part.... Here's a screenshot from the merc manual I have
Reckon we found a typo? |
#30
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Quote:
That's earth moving tractor fixing stuff not poofy girly limp wristed electronic engineering grade hardware!
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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