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  #16  
Old 03-22-2015, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cho View Post
hi T!

is this bold text part valid for w126/3 box also?


cheers
ChO

.
Yes indeed it is important to make sure the steering box is in the correct position otherwise you'll gouge a great big hole in the side of the casting as you wind it out...

Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewjtx View Post
Every DIY from Stretch =
Thanks chap!

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #17  
Old 08-17-2015, 09:01 AM
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Hi stretch, many thanks for the guide. I'm following it at the minute to reseal my 16v box.

I've hit a little hiccup I think. On the input shaft I've removed all the Allen bolts, and the cap is now free spinning. I understand if I unwind it too much I will drop all the ball bearings, so not keen on that.

In your picture you have a lump of wood to 'tap' off the cover (whilst winding in the input shaft) .
This is the stage I'm at, I've tried tapping and I've tried wacking, but that working gear assembly with input shaft ain't coming out.
It feels like it's against something solid.
Did you have to hit it hard to remove?

And certain that the valve is removed after the working arm? Not before (as it seems with w123)

Thanks


Think I'm going to have some fun removing the valve body cap too as I have the cast iron casing, which has nicely rusted it in place!
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  #18  
Old 08-17-2015, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merc16v View Post
Hi stretch, many thanks for the guide. I'm following it at the minute to reseal my 16v box.

I've hit a little hiccup I think. On the input shaft I've removed all the Allen bolts, and the cap is now free spinning. I understand if I unwind it too much I will drop all the ball bearings, so not keen on that.

In your picture you have a lump of wood to 'tap' off the cover (whilst winding in the input shaft) .
This is the stage I'm at, I've tried tapping and I've tried wacking, but that working gear assembly with input shaft ain't coming out.
It feels like it's against something solid.
Did you have to hit it hard to remove?

And certain that the valve is removed after the working arm? Not before (as it seems with w123)

Thanks


Think I'm going to have some fun removing the valve body cap too as I have the cast iron casing, which has nicely rusted it in place!
The working piston assembly should come out with relative ease so long at you've gone through the process of removing the output shaft assembly (the bit attached to the Pitman arm) first.

If you look into the hole where the output shaft was you should be able to see the working piston assembly - perhaps a squirt of penetrating oil in there will help?

There might be a bit of muck and oil suction working against you.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #19  
Old 08-17-2015, 07:08 PM
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Can confirm that on my steering box the pressure relief valve needed to be removed in order to remove the working piston assembly.

Once removed the working piston slotted straight out. I've done I little damage to the tip of the larger sheath on the pressure relief assembly but I can't see it affecting how it works, I'll just file the damage off
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  #20  
Old 08-17-2015, 07:13 PM
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What I have learned as well is that the jeep rubicon uses a very similar, Mercedes working gear,

So more information about the w201 or w124 box can be found on the jeep rubicon forum.

On this faq the jeep owner removes the 6notched nut with a punch, saying it's not too tight.... God knows how he tightened that to spec!
http://www.rubiconownersforum.com/forums/25-rubicon-tips-techniques-write-ups/61757-steering-box-input-seal-replacement.html

Last edited by Merc16v; 08-17-2015 at 07:34 PM.
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  #21  
Old 08-18-2015, 12:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merc16v View Post
Can confirm that on my steering box the pressure relief valve needed to be removed in order to remove the working piston assembly.

Once removed the working piston slotted straight out. I've done I little damage to the tip of the larger sheath on the pressure relief assembly but I can't see it affecting how it works, I'll just file the damage off
Ahhh SH...

...it looks like I've made a mistake when writing up.

If you look in the FSM (linked in the first post of this thread) it does indeed say to remove the valves first.

The following schematic shows it too.



I'll change the text in the post above and get a moderator to correct the cock up.
Attached Thumbnails
W201 steering box refresh and adjust-w201_018-steering-box-schematic-fsm.jpg  
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #22  
Old 08-18-2015, 05:05 AM
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Yeah the pressure relief valve (61) assembly does need to be removed, the pressure control body(4), not so much, the flappy paddle from the working piston slots into the control valve, so it'll slot out.


I have a spare steering box so I can swap out a relief valve from that :-)
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  #23  
Old 08-18-2015, 11:09 AM
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Ah ha yes my memory is getting a bit clearer - one valve out and the cap for the other valve removed as shown in this picture in the left hand upper corner helped to get the big bit out =>



...and wind the cap out slightly to get a bit of space for a block of wood with out loosing your balls...
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #24  
Old 08-19-2015, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post



I'm going to try and design a special tool much like the one I did for the W123 steering box (What a feeling it will be! A properly adjusted W123 / W116 / W126 power steering box) but I have to make some calculations first because there will be a lot of stress applied to the castelations when applying the monster 220 – 240 Nm torque needed for the input shaft cap; and the monster 200 – 240 Nm torque needed for the steering nut assembly. I've got a nasty feeling special tool steel and perhaps heat treating will be required. I have looked for alternative special tools – laser tools in the UK do a good range but I haven't found anything that could be used yet. At the moment this is a low priority though.


Hi Stretch, can you check the FSM (I don't have access) for those torque values?
I'm going off the manual 46-0236, it states the torque for the large 6notch nut is 280-320Ncm... but you have 220-240Nm

I decided to try loosen the nut with a tap of the club hammer and a punch, and it came off after a solid touch (but not medium or heavy on the hammer scale).

It allowed me to change the input shaft seal. and I've tightened it up with a few touches of the punch and club hammer. 300Ncm is like 3Nm, or 26.5 lb-in, its nothing
Attached Files
File Type: pdf input shaft sealing ring.pdf (522.7 KB, 185 views)
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  #25  
Old 08-20-2015, 05:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merc16v View Post
Hi Stretch, can you check the FSM (I don't have access) for those torque values?
I'm going off the manual 46-0236, it states the torque for the large 6notch nut is 280-320Ncm... but you have 220-240Nm

I decided to try loosen the nut with a tap of the club hammer and a punch, and it came off after a solid touch (but not medium or heavy on the hammer scale).

It allowed me to change the input shaft seal. and I've tightened it up with a few touches of the punch and club hammer. 300Ncm is like 3Nm, or 26.5 lb-in, its nothing
The nut is indeed meant to be done at 220-240 Nm (Newton meters).

The friction of the shaft is in newton centimeters but I can't see a Ncm friction torque in the FSM for that kind of number.

If you look in post #1 you will see a link to the FSM on startekinfo - this is the whole chapter 46 PDF

I'm a bit nervous for you now you've taken off that nut and have no way of applying the correct torque - you're gonna have to go for five white knuckles or more!
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #26  
Old 08-20-2015, 06:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
The nut is indeed meant to be done at 220-240 Nm (Newton meters).

The friction of the shaft is in newton centimeters but I can't see a Ncm friction torque in the FSM for that kind of number.

If you look in post #1 you will see a link to the FSM on startekinfo - this is the whole chapter 46 PDF

I'm a bit nervous for you now you've taken off that nut and have no way of applying the correct torque - you're gonna have to go for five white knuckles or more!

I can never seem to open starttekinfo, wants me to log in or something, and if I click your link in the first post it brings me to a page that says 'temporarily unavailable'

In my last post I attached the 46-0236 which is the guide for the w201/124 input shaft seal.
Step 20 in that guide definitely says 280-320Ncm for the large 6 notched nut

Really, it took very little force to loosen it.
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  #27  
Old 08-20-2015, 06:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merc16v View Post
I can never seem to open starttekinfo, wants me to log in or something, and if I click your link in the first post it brings me to a page that says 'temporarily unavailable'

In my last post I attached the 46-0236 which is the guide for the w201/124 input shaft seal.
Step 20 in that guide definitely says 280-320Ncm for the large 6 notched nut

Really, it took very little force to loosen it.
Startek for that part of the site doesn't ask you to log in. I have no user account with them (because it costs me in Europe a lot of money).

We could be talking about different things but in your PDF

Nut 23 in the picture at the top of the second page =>



is specified at the top of page four with a higher torque!

Attached Thumbnails
W201 steering box refresh and adjust-w201-steering-box-nut1.jpg   W201 steering box refresh and adjust-w201-steering-box-nut2.jpg  
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #28  
Old 08-20-2015, 06:25 AM
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I think step 20 has a type error.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #29  
Old 08-20-2015, 06:26 AM
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We are definitely talking about the same part.... Here's a screenshot from the merc manual I have

Reckon we found a typo?
Attached Thumbnails
W201 steering box refresh and adjust-image.jpg  
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  #30  
Old 08-20-2015, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merc16v View Post
We are definitely talking about the same part.... Here's a screenshot from the merc manual I have

Reckon we found a typo?
Definitely - just look at the hardware in your picture



That's earth moving tractor fixing stuff not poofy girly limp wristed electronic engineering grade hardware!

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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