Gen. II-616/ 617 Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit For Sale + Install Inst. - Page 12 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

BillGrissom · #**166** 09-05-2017, 12:31 PM

Sanden SD7 are "7 piston", but each piston has 2 heads which are double-acting, so effectively 14 pistons. There is an outlet flapper valve on both the front and rear heads for the output flow. They come in several displacements H13, H14, H15, ..., with H15 most common. I recall that H14 is the same outside dimensions, or at least spacing between the ears. H13 has closer ears, so needs spacers to fit Rollguy's brackets (Ace Hardware). I put an H13 on my 300D. I think Honda Civics use those, and it cooled OK for me even on our >100 F days, at least after tinted windows (w/ Duracool refrigerant). That gives more clearance for hoses to the K-frame and I was able to connect the factory hoses by using the proper "rear head" ($20 ebay). See my earlier posts since I might be forgetting facts. I downloaded a Sanden manual on-line which gives all details.

Maximan1 · #**167** 05-28-2019, 12:06 PM

This is probably mentioned elsewhere in this thread, but am not able to find it - does your bracket work in conjunction with the stock bracket, or does it replace it completely? The OM617 I am rebuilding came to me for free off of Craigslist, and did not come with any A/C bracket. Do I need to get a stock bracket from an R4 equipped 300D/SD, or do I just need to purchase yours and a Sanden compressor?

Thanks

ROLLGUY · #**168** 05-28-2019, 10:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maximan1

This is probably mentioned elsewhere in this thread, but am not able to find it - does your bracket work in conjunction with the stock bracket, or does it replace it completely? The OM617 I am rebuilding came to me for free off of Craigslist, and did not come with any A/C bracket. Do I need to get a stock bracket from an R4 equipped 300D/SD, or do I just need to purchase yours and a Sanden compressor?

Thanks

No need for the factory compressor mount, it gets removed anyway. The Sanden compressor mounting plate bolts directly to the block where the factory R4 mount casting was.....Rich

vwnate1 · #**169** 08-11-2019, 02:13 PM

An unsolicited performance report :

I installed this setup (Sanden 7 series compressor, parallel flow condenser and Rich's brackets) on my 1982 240D and the improvement is amazing ~ it uses less engine power so the car accelerates better and cruises down the open road with less throttle input .

The fan now comes on when the engine reaches 100* C even without the AC working .

I'm in the High Desert, Coachella Valley in Southern California on vacation for a week, car fully loaded and four people, the back seat passengers have not once complained of heat nor stuffy air in spite of 114* ~ 118* F out side temperatures .

I took the time to remove and overhaul the HVAC blower under the dashboard and when it was out I used a garden hose and cleaner to clean the evaporator coil as they tend to get clogged by accumulated dust and leaves after 34 years .

If you live where it's hot and want AC, this is the hot ticket, be sure to follow all the steps as AC is always a balanced system and any little thing not quite right will reduce the volume of cool, dry air into the passenger cabin .

ROLLGUY · #**170** 08-11-2019, 02:28 PM

Thanks Nate for the report.

For those of you that are going to install one of these Gen III kits, I have found that both braces need to be installed with the bolt head on top of the brace holding it to the aluminum upper pan, and the nuts on the bottom against the steel lower pan. This way, the brace bolts do NOT have to be removed in order to remove the steel lower pan. In the instructions for the Gen II kit, it has only the front brace, and the bolts were installed heads down, and nuts up. I don't know why I originally did it that way. I may print up an instruction addendum and put it with the kits I sell from now on. Actually, I think there is maybe two kits so far I have sold, that I did not install myself.

vwnate1 · #**171** 08-11-2019, 02:33 PM

All three of my W123's now have this ~

I know I need to clean out the evaporator in the wagon and put in new fan motor brushes but it's still very nice to have cool air in there after all this time .

Anything that makes these old cars more pleasant to drive is well worth the $ .

ROLLGUY · #**172** 02-09-2020, 04:37 PM

If you haven't downloaded the PDF installation guide, please do so. It is for the Gen II, but the only difference is the brackets and braces that have been added (consult photo). Also, when you install the two braces (bolted to oil pan), install them FIRST with the bolts going through the top, and the nuts against the steel lower pan. That way you will be able to remove the lower pan without removing the braces. The plate goes in front of the front brace, and the rear (towards the engine) of the rear brace. The white pieces in the photo are the compressor ears. Always put the washer on the side with the aluminum, even if the nut is not on that side. A 15mm box wrench can be put in between the compressor and plate when tightening the main mounting bolts. These bolts need to be tight enough that it takes a prybar to move the compressor close to the engine to get the belt on. Leave all of the adjustment bar bolts loose until the belt is on, and snug. This will make it easier to swing the compressor. The belt may seem like it is too small, but be assured it is actually the perfect size. You may need to place the belt around the compressor pulley, and mostly around the bottom of the crank pulley. Then turn the crankshaft with your 27mm socket and the belt will slide right on. Then adjust the belt tightness and tighten the adjustment bar bolts.

EDIT: Part of this is a reiteration of post #170

ROLLGUY · #**173** 02-11-2020, 10:56 AM

A couple more photos showing the front and rear braces and adjustment parts.

JHZR2 · #**174** 06-19-2020, 05:55 PM

Question regarding the Gen III, or any kit... Ive seen a lot of photos with a second AC hose up and over the top, along the valve cover.

Id really like to keep everything looking OE, that means OE hose routing.

Is it possible to get the ports/manifold changed to mate to the Sanden, and keep the entire OE hose routing for an original look?

Thanks!

ROLLGUY · #**175** 06-19-2020, 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHZR2

Question regarding the Gen III, or any kit... Ive seen a lot of photos with a second AC hose up and over the top, along the valve cover.

Id really like to keep everything looking OE, that means OE hose routing.

Is it possible to get the ports/manifold changed to mate to the Sanden, and keep the entire OE hose routing for an original look?

Thanks!

I have not tried it, but I am sure the hose can be made with the fitting orientation and hose length to rout under the car.
I just never liked the factory hose routing location (more susceptible to damage), so I have always ran the hose above.

JHZR2 · #**176** 06-19-2020, 09:40 PM

Thank you.

As I have a leaky expansion valve, Ill have to open the system, so Im tempted to try to figure this out. Problem is I cannot make my own stuff, and I dont really know where to start. But Id be tempted to give it a try on my CD.

ROLLGUY · #**177** 10-16-2020, 07:11 PM

Although it has been available for a while, I have not updated this thread. Go to: Introducing: Gen III Sanden retrofit bracket

vwnate1 · #**178** 10-20-2020, 11:02 AM

This setup is still working O.K. on my 1982 240D slush box ~ I just finished two road rallies and was well pleased to have 50* F air in the 100* Outside desert temps.....

ROLLGUY · #**179** 10-20-2020, 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vwnate1

This setup is still working O.K. on my 1982 240D slush box ~ I just finished two road rallies and was well pleased to have 50* F air in the 100* Outside desert temps.....

That's great Nate, glad to hear that!

vwnate1 · #**180** 10-20-2020, 02:06 PM

Me too as it's my oft daily driver .

No so much my '300TD

.