240D changed clutch slave, now gears barely engage. - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

sun tortise · #16 02-03-2013, 01:07 AM

will try cracking open that bleeder.

Stevo · #17 02-03-2013, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sun tortise

Ordered a clutch slave cylinder from Pelican for my 81 240D by vin #, pre filled it with fluid. It was a ***** to install, hard to hold it close into the mounting hole enough for the bolts to engage, but with the help of some longer bolts to draw it in which i then replaced with the right ones, got it.

Now the clutch pedal works too well. Seems a tad harder to push maybe. When it is all the way out, the gears are not quite to barely engaged, not driveable. It's as if the clutch pedal is partly pushed , but it isn't. Used to engage very well, about 1/2 - 3/4 up from the floor.

The rod length appeared identical.

What did i do wrong? Could there be too much brake fluid in the cylinder? When i was struggling to get the cylinder on, the rod might have been at an angle, hard to tell. that should make it shorter if anything, no?

The car has 95,000 miles on it, and the clutch worked perfectly as long as i kept brake fluid in the cylinder(had a leak).

Baffled and frustrated, spent many hours on this. have to take my mom to the dentist monday.

Just reread your post. I've installed a few MB clutch slaves an it should not have been a problem getting it close enough to engage the bolts even if you didn't reuse the thick black gasket. You should have been able to just bolt it up. I would pull it and see if theres a binding problem. You should also do a proper bleed.

sun tortise · #18 02-03-2013, 02:18 PM

Tried it w/o doing anything, and nothing changed (time heals all wounds, time wounds all heels did not apply). Could not get the car to even climb my ramps in first.

So i jacked it up and opened the bleeder bolt as per suggestion, and a thin stream of fluid came out. Closed the valve when it slowed to a dribble < 1 oz. came out.

Dramatic improvement!; seems to fully engage, but still much higher on the pedal than with the old slave.

I know, i know, i should bleed the whole system, but wouldn't air in it cause problems disengaging when U push the pedal rather than engaging when the pedal is released?

Still a bit baffled. The clutch worked perfectly before the slave developed a leak about 2 weeks ago. How can i be sure the clutch is fully engaging (no tachometer on this car)? How can i fix whatever trapped too much fluid in the slave cylinder?

Thanx so much fior all the advice so far!

Stevo · #19 02-03-2013, 02:50 PM

If draining some juice out of the slave helped, you were right. "too much fluid" The book says to flush the hydraulic system every two years. (who does that?). They are mostly referring to the brakes, but includes the clutch system.
I would use a power brake bleeder and give your system an enema.

Frank Reiner · #20 02-03-2013, 03:10 PM

sun tortise:

Please re-read post #10; there is a blockage in the system at the
clutch master cyl.

Stevo · #21 02-03-2013, 03:42 PM

"There are two possible causes: 1. the eccentric on the clutch M/C push rod is misadjusted. 2. the fluid return port in the clutch M/C is clogged with dirt."

I'm now guessing your right on #2

kerry · #22 02-03-2013, 04:30 PM

X2

sun tortise · #23 02-03-2013, 05:07 PM

Thanx again for all the help. I'm wondering if i may have gone wrong by screwing the fluid line on to the cyl. before attaching it to the clutch housing, so excess fluid couldn't drain out easily.

Wondering how to access that fluid return port in the master cylinder.

charmalu · #24 02-03-2013, 05:24 PM

If i read this thread correctly, Sun Tortise only changed the Slave Cylinder. Why is the Clutch MC being the center of attention if he didn`t mess with it? Or am I missing something here?

Iam thinking when he attached the Hyd line to the Slave Cyl and had the Bleeder closed, tightening down on the 2 13mm bolts to pull the Slave in pushed the rod off to the side of the Clutch fork.

I had that problem thinking I could save myself some frustration when I pulled the trans, by unhooking the Slave and set it off to the side. when I reattached it I had a problem with it not disengauging the clutch. as I remember I had trouble trying to push the Slave into position and getting the bolts to start. Just a thought.

Charlie

Stevo · #25 02-03-2013, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sun tortise

Thanx again for all the help. I'm wondering if i may have gone wrong by screwing the fluid line on to the cyl. before attaching it to the clutch housing, so excess fluid couldn't drain out easily.

Wondering how to access that fluid return port in the master cylinder.

I am not able to follow you on this. To clarify by "gone wrong" How?

What do you think about flushing the system? Basically all you need do is apply air pressure on the brake reservoir and go around and open bleeders until clean juice comes out. This flushing is not too be confused with bleeding. You are using a Dot 4 fluid right?

charmalu · #26 02-03-2013, 08:31 PM

I use the Motive Power Brake bleeder. add brake fluid, and then pump it up, open the bleeders, ( R/R, L/R, R/F, L/F and then the Clutch line.

As Stevo said use air pressure, this would be I guess using a Bug Sprayer or the Motive unit w/o any Brake Fluid to flush the system except what is in the Brake reservor. then you have to keep an eye on the reservor so you don`t run dry and add air to the system.

here is a link to the one I have,comes with the cap to screw onto the MB reservor. I added a Swivel where the 2 brass fitting screw together, or the hose will get twisted screwing them together.

Power Fluid Bleeder - Motive MOT0100 | FCP Euro

There are some threads on making a pressure bleeder using a Bug Sprayer.

Charlie

charmalu · #27 02-03-2013, 09:12 PM

Here is a You Tube video on bleeding the Clutch system. He mentions the BMW but the MB is the same.

BMW, VW, Porsche Clutch Bleeding - YouTube

How the Motive works.

Do it Yourself Clutch and Brake Bleeding with the Motive Power Bleeder! - YouTube

Charlie