Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 01-03-2013, 12:13 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Iowa City, IA
Posts: 1,647
Flush out engine before installing new radiator?

I got a new radiator for my wagon and i want to flush motor befor putting on can i put a hose in the uppe radiator hose and flush it? Or what is the best way to flush it without a radiator? My old one is toast. The plastic deteriorated after a citric acid flush.

__________________
What Would Rudolph Do?
1975 300D, 1975 240D, 1985 300SD, 1997 300D, 2005 E320 , 2006 Toyota Prius
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 01-03-2013, 12:29 PM
Banned
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Blue Point, NY
Posts: 25,396
A garden hose secured to the small hose that exits at the rear of the head is best. You want to connect to the side that goes to the heater core.

You also really want to open the block drain. It's miserable getting up there, but it's the only way to seriously flush these engines.

Be a bit careful with the garden hose. It puts out way too much water for the engine to handle and the pressure in the system might climb to levels that could be detrimental to the heater core. You want to flow some water into the engine but not pressurize it.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 01-03-2013, 05:29 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: TX
Posts: 3,992
Quote:
Originally Posted by biopete View Post
I got a new radiator for my wagon and i want to flush motor befor putting on can i put a hose in the uppe radiator hose and flush it? Or what is the best way to flush it without a radiator? My old one is toast. The plastic deteriorated after a citric acid flush.

what concentration of citric acid did you use? I got real good results with about 5% conc and 20 minutes running my OM606.910 engine with the thermostat bypass blocked with a rubber cork. This setup forces all coolant through the engine and radiator and not short circuit in the block.
__________________
2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 01-03-2013, 06:41 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Iowa City, IA
Posts: 1,647
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zulfiqar View Post
what concentration of citric acid did you use? I got real good results with about 5% conc and 20 minutes running my OM606.910 engine with the thermostat bypass blocked with a rubber cork. This setup forces all coolant through the engine and radiator and not short circuit in the block.
Thanks. Can you elaborate on your setup? I think 5% is probably good. I used 10%. 1.5 lbs acid in 15 lbs reverse osmosis water. I drove for about 20 minutes but I know how it takes a while to bleed the system and wanted to give it a good highway run in daytime. When I came out in morning
There was a ton of water on floor. I tightened upper hose on radiator and it just broke off in my hand. Do you think it was citric acid that did it?

Can that stuff do any damage inside engine and head?
__________________
What Would Rudolph Do?
1975 300D, 1975 240D, 1985 300SD, 1997 300D, 2005 E320 , 2006 Toyota Prius
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 01-03-2013, 06:43 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Iowa City, IA
Posts: 1,647
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
A garden hose secured to the small hose that exits at the rear of the head is best. You want to connect to the side that goes to the heater core.

You also really want to open the block drain. It's miserable getting up there, but it's the only way to seriously flush these engines.

Be a bit careful with the garden hose. It puts out way too much water for the engine to handle and the pressure in the system might climb to levels that could be detrimental to the heater core. You want to flow some water into the engine but not pressurize it.
Thanks. I know that hose. It's got the fuel heater built in. Ill flush through heater core with low pressure.
__________________
What Would Rudolph Do?
1975 300D, 1975 240D, 1985 300SD, 1997 300D, 2005 E320 , 2006 Toyota Prius
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 01-04-2013, 11:58 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 3,145
On most cars, while the old radiator is still in, I drain and fill with pure water and Prestone SuperFlush (a citric acid product), drive it a while, then drain. I also put a wire screen in the radiator return hose (upper) to catch junk. I leave the wire screen in so the new radiator doesn't become the filter. I sometimes connect the 2 hoses together without a radiator and run flush that way, but only run the engine in short intervals because the water will get hot fast. Removing the block drains is good, if easy (not so for 300D). Often engines with little 1/4" plugs need a screwdriver to punch thru the rust junk and get them to flow.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 01-04-2013, 12:54 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: TX
Posts: 3,992
Quote:
Originally Posted by biopete View Post
Thanks. Can you elaborate on your setup? I think 5% is probably good. I used 10%. 1.5 lbs acid in 15 lbs reverse osmosis water. I drove for about 20 minutes but I know how it takes a while to bleed the system and wanted to give it a good highway run in daytime. When I came out in morning
There was a ton of water on floor. I tightened upper hose on radiator and it just broke off in my hand. Do you think it was citric acid that did it?

Can that stuff do any damage inside engine and head?
The factory service manual advises to use an "open thermostat" SST to do the citric acid flush - I did not have that and used a rubber cork in the bypass port and put the flange back on without the thermostat.

The 5% solution cleaned out the engine nicely. A lot of rusty and milky water came out.

I then neutralized it too with some baking soda just to be safe.

The radiator pipe fitting breaking off is an age issue and probably also caused by the lack of the metal collar reinforcement. Its a known problem and citric acid does not cause it - infact if I were you I would consider it a good luck sign that it broke off in my driveway and not on the highway.
__________________
2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 01-05-2013, 08:20 AM
vstech's Avatar
DD MOD, HVAC,MCP,Mac,GMAC
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Mount Holly, NC
Posts: 26,991
ditto. the citric did not damage the plastic... age did. and green coolant, and age...

__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:54 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page