617 Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit For Sale + Installation Instructions - Page 7 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ROLLGUY · #91 04-08-2013, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BillGrissom

Rollguy,

Sorry if a repeat, but looks like my question didn't post.

What exactly do you mean by "all metal lock nuts"? Do you mean the type with a swage at the end which distorts the threads, or do you mean a separate split lock washer? The former might be hard to find in metric. I don't mind getting locally if you can give an Ace Hardware PN or exactly what to ask for. Thanks.

Yes I mean the nuts that are distorted. They are 3/8 24 and very common. The 12mm lock nut may be hard to find at a regular hardware store, but I think Orchard Supply Hardware might have them. I also am updating the compressor to plate mounting bolts to socket head cap screws. I would be happy to send them if you can't find them....Rich

ROLLGUY · #92 04-08-2013, 06:30 PM

I have updated the fasteners in the kits now being sold. The fastener/hardware packet will include:
2- Socket Head Cap Screws, nuts, washers- Compressor mounting bolts
4- 3/8 Machine bolts, nuts, washers- "Banana" bracket to compressor bolts
3- M8 Machine bolts, lock washers- Plate to engine bolts
1- 3/8 Machine bolt & nut- Slotted adjusting bracket to plate bolt
1- M12 lock nut- For long bolt (used) Plate to engine (no washers used)
1- Long 3/8 Bolt & nut- Adjusting bolt sleeves between "Banana" bracket
1- M6 bolt & nut- Oil cooler line clamp (used) on relocation bracket
1- Long 3/8 Allthread Bolt & jamb nut- Adjusting bolt
2- Cad Plated sleeves- Mounted between "Banana" brackets

MTUpower · #93 04-09-2013, 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MTUpower

My indie wrapped it up and had the world pac guy come out and pick it up... but told him his dilemma. Then the world pac guy came with a couple compressor units and tried to match up one with the bracket- and the first one fit perfect. It's a brand new japanese unit: SELTEC 36000819 installed in Volvo's. It was a bit more expensive but after having him try to install the rear port and then clean it and send it back I had no room to ask for a cheaper unit. I also had a new windshield installed and that is awesome! Looking forward to a cold a/c experience.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I see there are slightly different mounting hardware which is preferred. My indie found the same solution was needed. At this time I have zero time to pick up the car from him and thus will not have a final report on the new system until most likely next week.

BillGrissom · #94 04-12-2013, 11:53 PM

I found both all-metal lock nuts at Ace. I posted to the other thread.

MTUpower · #95 04-16-2013, 09:39 PM

My car is done and the a/c is cold and nice. It actually cools the whole wagon, which the old unit never did. The front fan is now on a pressure switch rather than the temp switch. The first day (and test day) it was about 90 degrees out. I'm happy- but remember I did not use a sanden unit- I got a seltec. I may use a sanden on the next wagon (its cheaper) - I bought two kits.

ROLLGUY · #96 04-17-2013, 12:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MTUpower

My car is done and the a/c is cold and nice. It actually cools the whole wagon, which the old unit never did. The front fan is now on a pressure switch rather than the temp switch. The first day (and test day) it was about 90 degrees out. I'm happy- but remember I did not use a sanden unit- I got a seltec. I may use a sanden on the next wagon (its cheaper) - I bought two kits.

I believe that ALL of the latest (Sanden and newer) compressors use the same technology. They all use a similar design with a wobble plate and any number of pistons working axially. The Sanden SD5 has 5 pistons, and the SD7 has 7 pistons. Like the SD7 Sandens, the Seltec (7 piston arrangement) is said to be more efficient than a 5 piston compressor. My opinion: Sanden or Seltec, they are all good and are interchangeable. A side note:
I am working on making Sanden style compressors available with the mounting kits. I may eventually have hose assemblies available as well...Rich

Air&Road · #97 04-17-2013, 09:02 AM

Looks good ROLLGUY! I have two Euro 123's with US aftermarket Sanden based a/c. Both of them appear to be the same kit and both use an idler for belt tensioning. I am of the opinion that it is the way to go.

Best of luck with your venture!

MTUpower · #98 04-19-2013, 08:14 PM

Some of the fastening hardware needed to be altered- hex head instead of 6 point, and using the non nylock etc. Frankly just details. Also it appears without a exact model of compressor you need to individually find and fit the rear lines.
I had my indie to the install, so I can not comment on how hard it was- but as every job there are three parts: time, knowledge and money. I don't have time- but I have the other two.
I agree it most likely matters not if the unit is a sanden or seltec.

In the end I'm happy.

SD Blue · #99 04-19-2013, 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MTUpower

................. The front fan is now on a pressure switch rather than the temp switch...................

How did you put the front fan on a pressure switch? Was it something as simple as just changing the temperature switch on the receiver/drier to a pressure switch?

MTUpower · #**100** 04-19-2013, 11:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SD Blue

How did you put the front fan on a pressure switch? Was it something as simple as just changing the temperature switch on the receiver/drier to a pressure switch?

yeah is was that simple- because the temps now were not getting where they should to activate the fan. At least that's the short story my indie told me. I put

$2600 into my 82 wagon and this a/c upgrade was part of it. I did not have time to ask all the detailed questions.

ROLLGUY · #**101** 04-20-2013, 01:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SD Blue

How did you put the front fan on a pressure switch? Was it something as simple as just changing the temperature switch on the receiver/drier to a pressure switch?

On my SD, I installed a relay so that the fan is running whenever the compressor is on. Running separate power for the fan is essential, as some of the circuits are overloaded. The compressor power only powers the coil on the relay (not the fan also), so no overload situation.

DeliveryValve · #**102** 04-30-2013, 03:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeliveryValve

I'm keeping the existing JD head and fit the hard line fittings to the existing w123 hose setup.
...

...
.

I've been taking my good ole time putting this together, but just to update, I decided I'm going to scrap the use of the JD rear head and I am now going to use the GH rear head for the Sanden 7H15 compressor.

The GH rear head has the similar manifold pad as the R4 setup. The advantage is that it can use the same hoses as in the stock with a little modifications. The GH rear head will put the Sanden compressor 90° towards the passenger side and will use sealing washers to seal the connection. In researching more, I think the QC head would use the same type of O-Rings as in the original Harrison R4.

Here are pics of the GH rear head setup.

Shot of the GH rear head.

.

DeliveryValve · #**103** 04-30-2013, 03:54 AM

This pic shows how much I bent the modified manifold to make it work with the Sanden. EDIT: this pic shows the bottom of the compressor.

The oil cooler lines had to be placed closer to the engine block in order for the Suction line to clear the side.

The discharge lower rubber hose will need to be lengthen to be properly seated underneath the fan shroud as in the stock setup.

The GH head uses a smaller diameter center mounting bolt. To prevent potential movement, I made a bushing to close the gap on the manifold.

I have a ways to go with this project. I still need to rip apart the dash so I can clean out the evaporator. I'm dreading this task and just dragging my feet on it. I'm putting in new hoses and a new parallel condenser that larger than my existing one. I'm looking forward to when this done.

.

ROLLGUY · #**104** 04-30-2013, 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeliveryValve

This pic shows how much I bent the modified manifold to make it work with the Sanden

The oil cooler lines had to be placed closer to the engine block in order for the Suction line to clear the side.

The discharge lower rubber hose will need to be lengthen to be properly seated underneath the fan shroud as in the stock setup.

The GH head uses a smaller diameter center mounting bolt. To prevent potential movement, I made a bushing to close the gap on the manifold.

I have a ways to go with this project. I still need to rip apart the dash so I can clean out the evaporator. I'm dreading this task and just dragging my feet on it. I'm putting in new hoses and a new parallel condenser that larger than my existing one. I'm looking forward to when this done.

.

Awesome engineering job! That will look almost factory when it is done! How are you going to deal with the different size hose when replacing it? Do you have metric hose and sleeves available?

daw_two · #**105** 04-30-2013, 10:22 AM

I recently purchased a GH head and compressor. These are enroute and I hope to have pics by the middle of next week. My pics though will be with the engine IN the car.

Thanks, DeliveryValve, for your assistance.