Sorry for the nOOb question. I've been looking for about a ~month now at 83-85 300SD.

Found a 1 owner '84 300SD MD car w/o any body rust. Put it on a lift yesterday and there's a few rust spots on running gear, but that's it. It's 119K car and everything works (including sunroof & A/C).

Few things need to be sorted out (lower ball joint, oxidized paint) but overall a great example. Ask is $6500.00

NADA has a fixed price on these (w/o regards to miles), other sites don't reach back to '84, so I'm a little stumped. Been monitoring eBay listings and it does "seem" high....but clearly condition is everything. I appreciate your collective thoughts...

Is this too much?

Thanks-PK

It sounds like a nice car. I recommend getting a mercedes diesel expert with experience in these older diesels to do an inspection for you. It may be worth the price or a lot less depending on a thorough checkout.

Is there documentary evidence of the true mileage?

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

For that price, comprehensive records would be necessary. Painting costs are high compared to most small mechanical repairs so it seems overpriced to me.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

although original owner has passed away, there is documents showing true miles.

Mechanic has been through the car. They are re-doing fuel filters & oil change, as well as the work I listed. Drove it with mechanic and all seemed well.

PK

Rust on running gear does not count in my book as something needing repair.

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

What Kerry said - oxidized original paint of this vintage is sorted by a repaint. Oxidation on clear coat doesn't buff out. But if you find a guy, let me know

Clarify "rust on the running gear." The transmission and axles are rusty?

How's the front suspension aside from the ball joint? It's typical at this age to need $2000 in suspension work so it drives and feels like a $6500 car. About half that for quality parts if you DIY.

How does it compare to this car - Mercedes-Benz : 300-Series 300SD in Mercedes-Benz | eBay Motors ? I can pick it apart all day long just from the pictures - a bad habit but the moderators tolerate me - but it looks to have all the major items in place: tons of maintenance records, no rust, shiny paint, etc. I prefer tex over leather for the long haul. The front seats need new horsehair pads, the front bumper isn't original (why?), white shocks = not Boge, Sachs or Bilstein = cheap replacement (what else did he cheap out on besides the antenna?), low on coolant but at least the reservoir is still translucent, the ricer air cleaner could mean bad judgment or a red flag. Is your $6500 candidate still worth the premium at least on the surface?

Sixto
87 300D^2

Yeah but he is "North of Boston" isn't that the real rust belt? The car is there too right?

I would hazard a guess that rust on running gear = problems elsewhere on the body. Those plastic panels can hide quite a lot of nasty stuff (if you are not familiar with them) as can that sodding MB rubberised undercoating...

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Six & Army,

Thanks for your thoughts. So the "rust" is simply surface, as the paint or moly coating on things like the pitman arm and various other "thick" steel parts has (long since) disappeared. It was the only thing I saw, so I called it out. I'd say it's simply surface rust from sitting here in the NE. No rust on the tranny or axles, just stationary gear, that has no weather protection.

Front suspension had tight tie rods (from manual twisting and seems solid on test drive). It went down the road well and (of course), has that truck feel in the wheel....One shock was bleeding, so it's being replaced. There is an entirely new exhaust from the manifold back. Transmission has new filter & fluid. (somewhat) new set of bundts and Michelins. Old tattered bundts come with it (for snows in the future)

Since the car was originally from Maryland, it seems like a very honest car. Auto check shows no accidents and an appropriate time table of registration/inspections in Maryland.

Seats aren't collapsed and blue leather shows a little dye absent on the wear points. He has matching leather touch up and will touch up (and condition) leather in those spots.

All work is being done this week and I will re-test drive before purchase.

Any additional thoughts?

Thanks again,

Pete

Get your hands on an owner manual if it doesn't have one and have at the climate control system. I've been into these cars for 12 years and I still can't figure out ACC. On the plus side, when it's working, I leave it in 2 white arrows mode with the temp wheel at 22*C whether I'm in Palm Desert in the summer or Reno in the winter. I might nudge the temp wheel 2*C up or down the first few minutes of a ride until the cabin temp sensor equalizes. That said, I still wish I had manual control of blower speed.

Is it due for a valve adjustment? Has chain elongation been evaluated? Does it already have a cam sprocket offset key?

Sixto
87 300D^2

Six,

I did inquire from the mechanic if a valve adjustment (and timing chain) was in order. He didn't "hear" any issues with the motor (running), so no, not at this time.

Has chain elongation been evaluated? Does it already have a cam sprocket offset key?

Don't know enough about these.....can you elaborate? The car will be in the shop this week, so this would be the opportune time to ask(?)......

Thanks again,

PK

Some folks take advantage of the valve cover being off to align the cam timing marks and check the crank TDC indicator to evaluate chain health. MB offers offset keys to bring cam timing back into spec when the chain has stretched. For the [IMO] nominal cost of rolling in a new chain, fitting an offset key doesn't make sense. If it were my purchase, I'd like to know how long the chain's been in service. If close to 150K miles, some would recommend a new chain. For the couple of minutes it takes, I'd pull the cam sprocket to make sure there's a regular rather than offset key. Mind you, I'm just bored when I suggest to check for an offset key. It's unlikely a pampered car would have one.

Sixto
87 300D^2

Six,

Thanks for the tip. Given the car belonged to an old man that passed (RIP), with 119K, you're probably correct. I will ask the mechanic what his (additional) thoughts are. If he didn't hear any chain noise and the valve cover looks "virgin" (never removed), it might be okay.....but it would be dumb not to ask....

Thanks again!

This thread falls short of useful with out pictures !!

A nice mechanically sound car is worth a repaint. Expect to spend 1500-2000 for a cheap paint job. Do some of the prep your self and get a cheap maaco spray for 6-800.

Upload some pics !

__________________
85 300D 3 pedal. Current project.
83 300TD (need rear wiper assembly dead or alive)
84 300SD Daily driver
85 300TD almost 400k miles and driven daily.
98 E300D *sold
86 300SDL *sold and made flawless 10 hour journey to new home.

Valve lash should be checked every 15K miles so I hope the valve cover's been off

Sixto
87 300D^2

X2

You'll be surprised what some members will pick out of a few pictures.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!