Red neck lower ball joint removal - Page 6 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Stevo · #76 03-04-2013, 05:55 PM

Right, thats what I did. I haven't installed a BJ yet, but the BJ, HF tool, and adapter fit inside the cove of the steering knuckle so it should work fine, thanks again and good luck with the SD problem.

whunter · #77 10-26-2013, 01:57 PM

for owner in need.

Quirky Mercy · #78 11-12-2013, 11:09 PM

I just replaced the lower ball joints and upper control arms on my 126.
Note to self don't waste your time with the ball joint press from AZ.
I tried to use it and bent that dude so bad I could hardly get it back in the case.
I just used an 1 1/4 socket and BAH with the knuckle in the vice it popped right out. I took them to a local shop to have them pressed in. $25 each was more than fair.

BillGrissom · #79 11-17-2013, 01:08 AM

Thanks funola and all for this very useful post and to whunter for refreshing it. I replaced the passenger's lower ball joint today, so it was very helpful. I add my experience.

On the driver's side, I just replaced the torn boot w/ a polyurethane one (Energy Suspension 13024) I had for my Mopars and repacked since that one had negligible play. The passenger's side one was open, totally dry, and ~1/4" play (ready to pop out). I used a pickle-fork to disconnect the ball joint stud from the LCA. I first tried the little air-tool one shown, but it was a bit wide (1") and the tips hit the spindle. I bought the 15/16" silver one ($10 O'Reilly's) and cut the tips shorter (but not enough). I added a thick washer w/ cut-out I have used as a spacer before, then it didn't bottom out and I was able to pop it fairly easy.

To separate the ball-joint from the spindle, I first wasted time trying a big puller to press it out in the car, but nothing for the puller to grab without getting cocked. I disconnected the spindle from the upper ball joint using the small puller shown in the photo, which worked well. Rather than dig a hole, I placed the top of the spindle on an old brake pad on the driveway (held w/ my feet) and used a framing hammer. I first hit the bottom of the ball joint directly, then added a 32 mm socket as it started to recess. I sprayed WD-40. I didn't have to swing real hard, just similar to driving a 16 penny nail in 2 blows. It didn't take long, but this is a CA car.

I bought an Autozone Duralast FA1603 ball joint ($23). The box said "Made in Taiwan" PN D10358 0A2. It is 1.784"D at the shoulder vs 1.768"D for the original, though starts out smaller. It is deeper past the shoulder, so protrudes more when installed. I considered installing a grease port, but I think most mechanics today use a needle tip to sneak in under the edge of the grease seal. I found much lower prices on the web (even Beck/Arnley), but couldn't wait, plus got Autozone's Ball-Joint Press "loaner".

Like most reported, pressing the new one in was very hard (>1 hr). I have a shop press, but no attachments to get around the spindle arm. I may buy some thick steel pipe and cut a slot to make a tool (like ebay one), since the C-clamp press proved difficult. The 3 tubes in the kit were too long (as others found), and I didn't want to make a custom tube like Rollguy did. Instead, I just let the end of the C-clamp rest directly on the ball-joint (w/o boot) as shown. I also started with the screw-side anvil flush against the bottom of the spindle. Don't fuss with spacer tubes until you get it flush (will be a while). You cannot just crank and forget. The stars must align to get it in. I greased it since no concern it would ever work loose. As I pressed, I constantly took it out of the press to see how it was cocking. I had to re-adjust to push on the other side more several times. I also tried beating the spindle sides with 2 hammers after each crank, which seemed to help slightly.

When I got the splines about halfway in, I seemed to have reached the limit of my arms and the press. I used a 1/2" breaker bar 19"L and a giant pipe wrench on the C-clamp body (otherwise vise would have broken off my wooden shelf). I applied maybe 300 ft-lbf to the screw. They could have used a finer screw, but I could see the body of the C-clamp bend as I unloaded it, so it was probably near its elastic limit already. I then applied heat from a propane torch to the thin part of the spindle, until ~150 F. It was too cold to get more flow from the bottle. That seemed to help and I was able to get it flush to the bottom fairly soon. I then add a spacer on the bottom so it could protrude and seated the shoulder. I cleaned and painted the spindle when done. I will install a polyurethane boot instead of the rubber one that came with it, and pack it well.

Pants · #80 09-14-2014, 07:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbobenz

ill usually prop it up and smack it with a socket and 5 pound sledgehammer. A framing hammer usually bounces off. BUT man, I wouldn't take my car to that shop again. I did one of these in the shop I worked at and 1 man with an air hammer can zip it out in ten seconds. Seriosuly, what shop doesnt have an air hammer.

Before I assume I can do this with my muffler-gun... I'm guessing many of the folks who've posted regarding their sledgehammer techniques, *do* have air-hammers (I take this to mean a one-hand, muffler-gun-style impact hammer that even small air compressors can run) so...might it really be as simple as using a muffler-gun with a punch bit on it for 10 seconds, or am I going to end up 'digging a hole'?

How many hours would we estimate this task at, start to finish, first-time/second-time?

79Mercy · #81 09-14-2014, 08:52 PM

Yeah i used my snap on air hammer and it took the old ball joint out of the spindle effortlessly. Our w123 ball joint press at work is pretty worn out, however still works decently.

whunter · #82 09-14-2014, 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pants

Before I assume I can do this with my muffler-gun... I'm guessing many of the folks who've posted regarding their sledgehammer techniques, *do* have air-hammers (I take this to mean a one-hand, muffler-gun-style impact hammer that even small air compressors can run) so...might it really be as simple as using a muffler-gun with a punch bit on it for 10 seconds, or am I going to end up 'digging a hole'?

How many hours would we estimate this task at, start to finish, first-time/second-time?

I have been at this for 35+ years, and my average time is (start to finish) two hours for both lower ball joints.

This is variable, because some are easy, and some fight to the bitter end.

An easy lower ball joint will zip right out using my
Ball Joint Service Kit for 2WD and 4WD Vehicles
and adapter kit
Master Ball Joint Adapter Set 14Pc

A tough lower ball joint goes in my 20 ton Shop Press
20 Ton Shop Press - Hydraulic Shop Presses on Sale
and the rare NASTY one may require additional persuasion from my oxygen / acetylene torch
Cutting Torch - How to setup and shutdown an Oxygen and Acetylene Torch
before coming out.

.

vstech · #83 09-14-2014, 09:40 PM

It takes me about 30minutes each side, start to finish... Unless the backing plate is stubborn...

Anybody interested in me shipping rebuilt ones and you shipping me your old ones? I have the press, and the eBay tool...

Pants · #84 09-14-2014, 10:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

Anybody interested in me shipping rebuilt ones and you shipping me your old ones? I have the press, and the eBay tool...

Might be...but they're too big to fit USPS flat-rate boxes, right? Shipping to Honolulu by other options is pretty much unaffordable. LMK, assuming too big, what the weight would be.

--Dave

Diesel911 · #85 09-15-2014, 12:41 AM

This is what I did the first time I removed the Ball Joint From the Lower Control Arm. You need to lossen the Nut and back it off to give enough so the threads on the Joint are not damaged and for the Ball Joint to loosen and hit the Nut with a 2-3 pound Hammer.

It ruins the Nut so you would need a new Nut.

It is not good to do that to the Jack but I needed something fast to support under the Lower Control Arm.

Later I bought the Real Mercedes Tool to do the Job and an OTC Pitman Arm Puller 8149 that will also do the Job.

vstech · #86 09-15-2014, 12:52 AM

This is VERY BAD plan!

Striking the nut/bolt of the ball joint mushrooms it and can create a rivet effect making it extremely difficult to remove. If you don't have a proper tool and must hammer... strike the sides of the LCA that the ball joint passes through.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

This is what I did the first time I removed the Ball Joint From the Lower Control Arm. You need to lossen the Nut and back it off to give enough so the threads on the Joint are not damaged and for the Ball Joint to loosen and hit the Nut with a 2-3 pound Hammer.

It ruins the Nut so you would need a new Nut.

It is not good to do that to the Jack but I needed something fast to support under the Lower Control Arm.

Later I bought the Real Mercedes Tool to do the Job and an OTC Pitman Arm Puller 8149 that will also do the Job.