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  #1  
Old 07-15-2012, 03:35 PM
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Grease nipple lower ball joint?

Has anyone drilled and tapped the lower ball joint to add a grease nipple?

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  #2  
Old 07-15-2012, 05:10 PM
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I certainly prefer zerks on ball joints. Can it be done without either damaging the ball or getting metal shards into the joint?
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  #3  
Old 07-15-2012, 05:12 PM
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scratch that idea. there is no room to get a grease gun on the nipple.
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  #4  
Old 07-15-2012, 05:25 PM
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I have pumped the lower ball joint boot full of grease using a grease needle, and a dental tool to let air out around the top bolt. I did not know the history of the ball joints on my '97, and I wanted to be sure to keep them lubed. I also lubed the upper ball joints the same way when they began to squeak. I hate "lubed for death" suspension parts.
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Old 07-15-2012, 06:00 PM
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I always enjoyed the "change oil and lube joints" session on my american cars... but the 30 years the unlubed joints these MB joints are lasting sure puts to shame the greaseable joints of the others!
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  #6  
Old 07-15-2012, 08:04 PM
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That's because they're over-engineered. The ball joints on a 123 are only a little smaller than the ball joints on my 2003 Dodge, which has 1000# more on the front end than the whole Mercedes weighs.
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Grease nipple lower ball joint?-000_0787-2-.jpg   Grease nipple lower ball joint?-000_0786-2-.jpg  
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  #7  
Old 07-15-2012, 08:46 PM
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if you use a flat bottomed cutting reamer rather than a drill bit, and was very careful with your depth, you could possibly do it. You'd also need a bottoming tap. You'd need brake cleen to remove the shavings and regrease with a high quality crown and chassis grease.
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  #8  
Old 07-15-2012, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nelbur View Post
I have pumped the lower ball joint boot full of grease using a grease needle, and a dental tool to let air out around the top bolt. I did not know the history of the ball joints on my '97, and I wanted to be sure to keep them lubed. I also lubed the upper ball joints the same way when they began to squeak. I hate "lubed for death" suspension parts.
I did this years ago with my old 123, it worked well.
Some where on here I have mentioned that I drilled a hole into my rear wheel bearings cavity on the arms & pumped grease into them. Got rid of a wheel bearing noise.
I like zerks on joints, when you pump grease in, you keep water & dust out. Dont burst the rubber seals though!
My jeep has zerks all over the front end. When ever its been through water it gets a grease.
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  #9  
Old 07-16-2012, 03:35 AM
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When they squeak, they'r dead and need replacing...
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  #10  
Old 07-16-2012, 10:59 AM
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As Funola said, scratch that idea with the lower joint. as I remember looking at mine last week with that same idea. there is that piece that bolts on just under the Ball Joint, think the tie rod bolts to it. there is just no room to get a grease gun in between the 2 pieces.
Maybe an angle zerk would work, but would have to be long enough to stick out between the avail space which seems tight.

Some type of plastic tubing like the black vac line from the vac pump to brake booster of proper size could be heat shrunk to some sort of pipe nipple and stick out between the space with a zerk heat shrunk to the tube.

My lower L/F on the 85 has a deteriorated rubber boot, so got me to thinking, what if.........?


Charlie
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  #11  
Old 07-16-2012, 11:18 AM
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A Friend of mine wanted to go in through the bottom of the Joint.
I know he got as far as buying the Grease Zerks; after that He has not commented on it.

I think a hole can be drilled there without issues but I am not sure there is enough available Metal there for threading.

If someone does not like the option of inserting a needle through the Boot they could buy the Tool to press the Lower Ball Joint off of the Control arm and remove the Boot and Apply new Grease.
With the correct Tool the job would not be a terrible amount of work and would not need to be done often.
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Grease nipple lower ball joint?-lower-ball-joint-drawing.jpg  
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Last edited by Diesel911; 07-16-2012 at 11:40 AM.
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  #12  
Old 07-16-2012, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T200 View Post
When they squeak, they'r dead and need replacing...
What we have here is a difference of opinion. I lubricate a lot of things that you and many others would just replace. I consider squeaking a warning that lube is needed. A check for play in the upper ball joints showed them to NOT be worn, just dry. The puzzler is that they are designed with the grease reservoir, the boot, below the ball joint. It took a while for the grease to make the climb.
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  #13  
Old 07-16-2012, 10:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
As Funola said, scratch that idea with the lower joint. as I remember looking at mine last week with that same idea. there is that piece that bolts on just under the Ball Joint, think the tie rod bolts to it. there is just no room to get a grease gun in between the 2 pieces.
Maybe an angle zerk would work, but would have to be long enough to stick out between the avail space which seems tight.

Some type of plastic tubing like the black vac line from the vac pump to brake booster of proper size could be heat shrunk to some sort of pipe nipple and stick out between the space with a zerk heat shrunk to the tube.

My lower L/F on the 85 has a deteriorated rubber boot, so got me to thinking, what if.........?


Charlie
Maybe a flexible grease hose or a bent copper pipe to a zerk will work?


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  #14  
Old 07-17-2012, 10:53 PM
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The knuckle assembly which I thought had a good lower ball joint turned out to be not so good after I cleaned and greased it up. The rust was keeping it tight and gave the illusion it had no movement. Anyway I got the bad ball joint out and did a test drilling. See this thread about how I got the ball joint out.

Red neck lower ball joint removal

The bottom of the ball joint is about 1/4" thick, plenty to tap a thread into. The metal is soft and easy to drill. I'll have to take a closer look to see if it is possible to somehow attach a grease fitting that is accessible.

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  #15  
Old 07-18-2012, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
The knuckle assembly which I thought had a good lower ball joint turned out to be not so good after I cleaned and greased it up. The rust was keeping it tight and gave the illusion it had no movement. Anyway I got the bad ball joint out and did a test drilling. See this thread about how I got the ball joint out.

Red neck lower ball joint removal

The bottom of the ball joint is about 1/4" thick, plenty to tap a thread into. The metal is soft and easy to drill. I'll have to take a closer look to see if it is possible to somehow attach a grease fitting that is accessible.

If you are able to Tap it a Grease fitting that points straigh down should be fine.
3 types to chose from.
One you can sipmply drive into the hole.
One that I guess is self tapping.
Or, one you have to Tap the Hole for.
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Grease nipple lower ball joint?-grease-fitting.jpg  

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