why not just weld in a general piece of 12 or 14 gauge steel instead? no shipping, plenty of that near you, and if its not a concours car, and you are doing the welding anyway, why not use blank stock and bend a few edges to whip up a pan for yourself?

__________________
This post brought to you by Carl's Jr.

I'd have to agree with this opinion ^^ if your focus is on utility.

There is no need then to go original parts.

.

__________________
1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

I had planned to do just such a patch on the driver's side, which only requires an "L" section from the rear and some of the side.

For the passenger side, which is badly gone, the 4dr pans from fixmyrust dot com are $80 (edited price). For that price it seems like a lot less trouble than trying to DIY gerry-rig the spots where the seat bolts in. An experienced bodyguy made them readily enough for my old SD when I had the driver's floor done years ago, but that sort of stuff is way beyond the skill sets of me and my amateur-welder neighbour.

And if you don't get the mounts right and end up with the seat at even a mild angle, believe me you notice it. They had to redo one side on my SD because the slight tilt to the seat drove me nuts.

__________________


Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

I agree with you on the wonky seat - 'king nightmare.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!