Bodhi damaged in accident - Page 5 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

layback40 · #61 04-29-2012, 04:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987

Layback, don't worry, I'd definitely want to get a lot of practice in before trying to weld the rockers. I just meant it'd be a good time to get started in the learning process.

Nothing worries me !

When you decide to get a welder, I would suggest a small relatively cheap gas-less MIG. They are very easy to use & do a good job on hobby type stuff.
I am sure your dad will have a few ideas as well.
Have Fun !!

vstech · #62 04-29-2012, 08:00 AM

meh... I really don't like the gasless rigs, especially for body work. the flux core wire needed for it, tends to leave garbage on the metal that ALL has to be removed prior to painting... a near impossible task. they are fine for learning on, but nigh useless for actual work on the project you are learning for! no, I'd find a used infinitely variable power and speed model with a tank. or buy a new one that has the option for a tank, then you can use the flux core wire to learn on, and switch to gas when you feel you are ready.

layback40 · #63 04-29-2012, 08:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

meh... I really don't like the gasless rigs, especially for body work. the flux core wire needed for it, tends to leave garbage on the metal that ALL has to be removed prior to painting... a near impossible task. they are fine for learning on, but nigh useless for actual work on the project you are learning for! no, I'd find a used infinitely variable power and speed model with a tank. or buy a new one that has the option for a tank, then you can use the flux core wire to learn on, and switch to gas when you feel you are ready.

The cheap gas-less MIG we have here gets about 10X as much use as our gas one. The wire we use isnt cored with flux. It is just like regular wire as if it has some how had the flux dispersed through it. We do have some flux core wire for hard facing & its like a tube with flux up the middle.
I think the gas-less one can be run with gas. Havent had any trouble painting over the welds, though thick yellow enamel is a little different to auto lacquer.
The variable speed & power is very important. Especially when working with thin panels.
The low duty cycle of the cheap hobby units isnt that much of a problem for a DIY. So what if you have to have a 10 minute break after a few minutes welding. Gives you time to re-assess your progress.

Its good to take the welder to the job & not the job to the welder. ~ small & simple is the key.

I wish I had learned welding with a MIG! So much easier than a conventional arc.

97 SL320 · #64 04-29-2012, 10:33 AM

Before the welding thing goes too far.

Welding in a complete rocker section is a reasonably complex task, on unit-body cars the rocker amounts to the frame rail, it's structural. The car must be supported to prevent it from sagging and many measurements taken prior / during the process when large sections are cut out.

If the rocker is just dented, a stud welder can be used to work it back into shape. This is where small nails ( like the stem of a pop rivet ) are spot welded to the center of the dent then pulled with a slide hammer / pry bar. It is a much more elegant solution than the old drill a hole and screw in a dent puller slide hammer.

A scrape that is say 1/4" deep and 2 ft long would be left as is and puttied over as the effort to pull it out would be too great.

If any welding is done to the rocker the inner structure need to be rustproofed, the less welding one does the better.

For rusty rockers, cutting out a minimum of metal can be better than replacing a entire panel. I make a cardboard template of the profile and have a local fabrication shop make me rocker sections rather than deal with used parts. For generic car use, the rusted sections are cut out, painted then a rocker repair installed over the rusted section. This type of repair amounts to the patch installed over the existing rocker, while not up to Pebble Beach standards it does the job.

As for what type of welder, gasless flux core isn't a good idea for body work. The flux leaves brown residue and the welds tend to have lots of spatter. A low cost welder is a low cost welder. For a entry level gas unit expect to pay $ 600 + anything less is just a big battery charger and will only frustrate a new to welding person.

Flux core does have its place as there isn't any gas to blow away in a windy environment.

BodhiBenz1987 · #65 04-29-2012, 05:45 PM

Just to clarify, the rocker panel was not damaged in the accident, or any of the structure under or around the door. The rocker just has a lot of rust (the typical jackport meltdown) that has gotten worse over the years and I'd really like to address at some time. The adjuster said the rust wouldn't affect the repair since it doesn't extend to the door's frame. So it isn't related to the accident or current repair, just something to keep in mind in the future. For now I just want my baby back to where it was before last week.

BodhiBenz1987 · #66 05-11-2012, 05:52 PM

Little update (took a while to get the wheels turning, figuratively speaking): Both my mechanic and the alignment specialist agreed the steering arm was bent, although they weren't sure if that's the only thing, since it is so dramatically toe-in. But, as a starting point they are going to replace the arm and see if it aligns. I managed to find the axle assembly I had sitting in a shed and remove the steering arm (and spindle) ... some flaky surface rust but otherwise looks good so they are going to try the used part for me. Hoping that does the trick ... I miss my car a lot!

BodhiBenz1987 · #67 05-14-2012, 07:46 PM

Got it back.

Replacing the steering arm with the used one corrected 3/4 of the toe-in and the rest they were able to correct with alignment. I drove it home about 20 miles and it seems to track well with no strange noises from the suspension. I did notice a kind of "wind" sound at speed that I'm guessing may be due to the door damage. I did replace the mirror unit in the alignment shop parking lot because it was too broken to adjust and made changing lanes/merging a little scary. Up next, finding a body shop. I'm really, really glad to have my car back and seemingly back to smooth driving though.

vstech · #68 05-14-2012, 07:49 PM

SWEET!

Stretch · #69 05-15-2012, 04:10 AM

Great news

pwogaman · #70 05-15-2012, 08:23 AM

LIKE

pj67coll · #71 05-15-2012, 11:21 AM

Great news. Well done!

- Peter.

BodhiBenz1987 · #72 05-26-2012, 01:36 AM

Just a quick update! Bodhi is back and all fixed up. I thought I posted an update a few days ago, when I picked a shop, but I must have lost it in the mayhem at work, heh. I took it to a local shop that does both collision and restoration. He was able to straighten the doors instead of replacing them, and they look pretty darn good. He also fixed the rust on the rear door and repainted the whole side, put on the used trim I have him (and cleaned up the pieces I didn't have replacements for) and put in a used window regulator I gave him (Mine had not worked for years, seemed like a good chance to replace it). It mostly looks terrific and cost me less than the insurance check. There are a couple minor imperfections in the paint I've noticed, but I think that's a detailing matter. Basically I'm pleased to have come out of all this with a car that looks nicer than it has in a long time and without losing any money (not that the money matters that much, but I won't have a job after mid-June, so it's a help). It's good to have my old friend back during a not-very-easy time for me.

As always I appreciate all the support here, and I'm looking forward to showing off Bodhi at Chad's GTG in the fall.

Pics are limited, as my camera kicked the bucket, but here' s a couple "before" shots, and a cellphone "after" shot:

Shiny!

Also, here's the bent steering arm. I couldn't tell by looking at it, but it was enough to throw the alignment way off