Well, I think it is broken. Had the car locked, and when I went to use the key to open just the passenger side front door. the key turned, stuck for just a split second, then let go with a small pop. Trouble is, I think something broke as the door will now not lock or unlock with the key. It works just fine with the drivers door lock and will lock/unlock manually from inside the car. It just will not work with the key in the lock cylinder.

I suppose I am looking at taking the door panel off, but can anyone give me a head's up at what I am looking at fixing to get it working again?

On a different note, the car has also started to intermittantly have a harsh clunky type downshift from 3-2 and 2-1. More 2-1 but still a lot harsher than it used to be. Up shifts are fine. BTW, the car is (of course) the 83 300D

Glenn

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2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 102K (hers)
2005 Corvette 55K (fun car)
2002 VW Jetta TDI 238K (mine)
1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 211K (kids)
1994 Ford F150 4WD 246K (firewood hauler)
1983 Mercedes 300D 384K (diesel commuter)

This sounds familiar.

My front passenger door cannot be opened before. I dug in and investigated, and found out the white bushing at the end of a rod was disconnected from the lock mechanism itself. You'll need the window up for this procedure, the door panel off and some basic tools to loosen the door handle assembly while you insert back the white bushing.

This, or the spring loaded mechanism that allows the door to be opened by the key OR the central locking has broken. You can get one new from the dealer. Either way, it will have to be opened up to see what broke. If it's the spring loaded mechanism, the part number you need from the dealer is p/n 123 800 00 80

More info:

Internal door lock mechanism/linkages - Page 2 - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum

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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg

The rod that comes off the door handle goes into a plastic conical piece on the actual door lock mechanism that brakes. In the older 123 this piece is metal and lasts for ever. But somewhere along the line they switched to plastic. I don't think this piece is available new unless you buy the hold lock mechanism. The only option is the junkyard. You might be able to retrofit one of the early metal ones into you mechanism.

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I am trying to fix an inop door lock on a friend's W123 300D and am unable to remove the door handle assy. I have also not been able to find info showing how to remove it. I removed the two rear facing screws, figured out how to knock the handle forward but can not for the life of me figure out how to get the bugger out of the door. I removed the door panel and loosened the front screw more (assume it should come out without touching this screw). I only had about an hour to get a few things figured out and ran out of time.

I am taking pictures along the way to share with others once I am done.

Issue with handle is that the key will not turn. It's as if it's the wrong key. The car has sat for several years and is a new project for my friend. I lubed all the locks and have the key working in the other 2 exterior locks, just not the drivers door. Perfect right?

Thanks in advance for the help. I have been searching and reading various unhelpful threads for the last 2 weeks.

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85 300D 3 pedal. Current project.
83 300TD (need rear wiper assembly dead or alive)
84 300SD Daily driver
85 300TD almost 400k miles and driven daily.
98 E300D *sold
86 300SDL *sold and made flawless 10 hour journey to new home.

When all else fail, there is the "Ofishial" W123 FSM how to do it procdures.

Section 72-240

A. Sedan

Note:
starting September 81 the door grips on driver`s doors
are provided with an additional safety lock.

During removal and installation, pay attention to
modified scope.

Removal

1. press off cover
this is the black cover on the door edge

2. Unscrew both bolts.

3. Press door handle forward.

4. On door handle without safety lock pull grip
bracket and remove entire door grip

5. On door grip with safety lock insert ignition key
into lock cylinder. Turn ignition key by 50deg to the
rear and remove door grip.

Note: if the lock cylinder cannot be turned, unscrew
fastening screws of door lock to remove door grip.
Then pull door grip laterally out of cutout and force
set pin out of turning rod on door grip.


Installation

6. Screw front mounting screw into door handle so
far equaling about the thickness of the door sheet
metal.

7. On door handle without safety lock, pull grip and
insert handle into cutout of door.

8. Guide rotary rod into rotary nut.

9. On door handle with safety lock, pull grip and
insert handle in door cutout. Simultaneously turn
lock cylinder with ignition key 50deg to the rear and
introduce turning rod into turning nut on lock.

10. Press back door grip, making sure that drive pin
engages in door lock. If pre-load between outside
door panel and front mounting screw is not sufficiently,
adjust screw accordingly.

Note: The clearance between the drive pin and
opening on the door lock should be about 1 mm.
Adjustments are made with the socket screw.

11. Tighten door grip and install cover.

12. Check function of lock with ignition key.


Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Thanks Charlie.

Sadly, like most attempts at technical writing, it falls short of a diagram or picture.

I have copied this info and will utilize and make another shot at handle removal.

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85 300D 3 pedal. Current project.
83 300TD (need rear wiper assembly dead or alive)
84 300SD Daily driver
85 300TD almost 400k miles and driven daily.
98 E300D *sold
86 300SDL *sold and made flawless 10 hour journey to new home.