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#1
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Fuel tank strainer delete?
Hi all,
I am planning on cleaning my fuel tank strainer this weekend if I get the gasket in time. I was wondering if I should just go ahead and remove the mesh screen. My logic is that it is 10x easier to replace the pre-filter under the hood than it is to drain the tank and fight to get the strainer out. The only concern I have is a big chunk of crap getting caught in the fuel line. Perhaps I should retrofit some larger diameter screen around the strainer body? Part of the reason I am going to clean the strainer is because my car has almost no low-end power and quite lacking in power in general. When the turbo eventually boosts, it has some power but then it up-shifts too soon and all is lost (I know, different issue). It smokes a light grey haze at idle and smells like diesel in the exhaust and burnt oil. I am comparing it to my 7.3IDI's exhaust smell, so maybe the OM617 has a different smell altogether. It more than likely needs a valve adjustment, injector rebuild, fuel system cleaning, etc. I do have a new pre-filter and main filter on it.
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors. 2003 S430 - 107K 1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+. 1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K. Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge |
#2
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If you are continually having tank screen clogging issues than you've got bigger problems which will only be compounded by removing the screen. If you take the screen out all that gunk will get stuck in the fuel lines, which will be harder to clean out. I would think it would be better to get the tank cleaned out rather than just removing the screen.
If you do remove the screen, you could put a course inline filter in the hose right out of the tank. Then you could clamp off the line between the filter and the tank to remove the filter and clean it. Then you wouldn't have to drain the tank.
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Andrew '04 Jetta TDI Wagon ![]() '82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold '77 300D ~ Sold
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#3
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With no Fuel Tank Screen and contaminated Fuel I would be worried the Fuel Lines would get Plugged.
I have owned my 82 Volvo Diesel since 1992 and my 84 Mercedes 300D for almost 5 years now and have never had the Fuel Tank Screens plug up on either of them or had any lost power due to plugged Filters. The reason is that I buy 99% of my Fuel from the same station that Truckers told me back in the 1970s always had clean Fuel. So the short story is that keeping the Fuel Tank Screen clean so it almost never needs to be removed is done by solving the Fuel Contamination Problem first. So, what do you think is causing your Fuel contamination problem? Do you think it is something growing in the Fuel Tank or you just got unlucky and go a contaminated batch of Fuel from a Station? This is more complicated but you could remove the Screen and install a Shutoff Valve and install a separate Filter that Filters about the size of the Tank Screen down under the Car. That would protect the Fue Lines from getting plugged up and make it a little easier to change the Filter there as you would not need to drain the Fuel Tank. One of our Members carries a Funnel that has a Filter Screen in it and He stick that into the Tank when he fills up. I think He said he keeps it in a Bucket that has a Lid on it in the Trunck. That would prevent particles but if there is an organisim in the Fuel I do not think the Funnel would keep the infection out of the Tank.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#4
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Word From The Wise..
If you have poorly adjusted valves then that would be a CRITICAL diagnosis for ALL the symptoms you are experiencing. Go out and do that number one. Do the valve job, check and lube the throttle linkages ASAP. Then, take a look at any problems you might still be experiencing with the certainty of good vales and linkage.
Isolate the tank by making fitting a small "test tank" right in the engine bay. If your still having problems with that.. check the lift pump. Get the rebuild kit from peach parts or get a brand new one. 240D Lift Pump Work - YouTube Fuel pressure was the root of the problems i was experiencing on my latest go round of benzolack wrenchin. Things i shoulda checked first i finally arrived at after chasing several other things, including the tank strainer. Fuel pressure is pretty crucial for the ole 617. Sounds like you're on the right track. Go 'head and make sure that the screen is good and the filters o'corse ---> All the fuel line hoses and clamps---> the tank vent line ---> the lift pump ---> fuel pressure relief valve---> diesel purge. Just search the forum for those key topics for pretty much everything you want to now. If you are still having low power after that you're gonna have to check cylinder compression---> Fuel injector health---> IP timing and so on.. I think you'll find some answers in the fuel system quest
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Current fleet 2006 E320 CDI 1992 300D - 5speed manual swapped former members 1984 300D "Blues Mobile" 1978 300CD "El Toro" |
#5
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I guess I should have mentioned that I bought the car about 2 months ago and it has always been a turd when it comes to power. I'm used to Diesels being slower than gassers but when I put my foot to the floor in this car, it just mozies on up to speed until the turbo kicks in and it gets a little more aggressive. If I floor my 7.3, I immediately have power and whatever was in the front of the truck is now in the back.
I don't know for sure that my tank screen is clogged but I have been driving the car off and on for the last 6 weeks and of those 6 weeks, I see an awful lot of crud in the new primary filter I installed. I'm still in the trouble shooting stages right now. I'm trying to start simple and work up to more complex issues. I cleaned the banjo bolt and hose from the intake manifold to the electrical device on the driver's side and from that, I cleaned the connection to the ALDA. There was some crud in both connections but I did not notice much if any performance increase. I also lubricated all throttle linkages and removed the 3-2 valves for the EGR completely. The EGR has been bypassed for several weeks already with no noticeable difference. I plan to install a block off kit when I can get one.
__________________
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors. 2003 S430 - 107K 1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+. 1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K. Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge |
#6
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You are reaching a premature conclusion and speculating. I don't think there's any evidence at the moment that the tank screen is the problem.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#7
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You are right. I do not know for sure that the tank screen is my problem but for the cost of a $0.50 gasket, I will make sure it is clean. As this is a used and mostly abused car, I feel safe assuming the tank screen is dirty even if that isn't contributing to my problem. Since this car is new to me, I would clean the filter even if there were no problems just so I know it has been done. Just like changing oil and filters when you buy a car with little documented service.
__________________
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors. 2003 S430 - 107K 1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+. 1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K. Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge |
#8
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Even on used and abused cars with many many miles, the tank screen can be completely fine unless it has been subject to bad fuel or conditions necessary for the production of algae. Personally, I wouldn't go thru the work of cleaning a tank screen without determining whether there was evidence of a problem there by either swapping the inlet and return lines in the engine compartment or setting up a separate fuel supply under the hood. Two minutes of effort could exclude the tank screen as the cause of the problem without requiring a bath in diesel fuel.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#9
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Quote:
I suppose I could hook up some sort of fuel container and take it for a spin around the block. I could have a tank vent issue as well. I noticed that when I went to put some fuel in this afternoon, the fuel cap made a hissing noise when I removed it. It was surely a suction force acting on the cap.
__________________
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors. 2003 S430 - 107K 1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+. 1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K. Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge |
#10
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__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#11
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Quote:
Good advice !!! If the crud in your primary filter is black, you have a bug problem!! get some startron into your tank !!
__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... ![]() 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles ![]() 1987 250td 160k miles English import ![]() 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles ![]() 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#12
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Quote:
Mine had some hair, a leaf, metal droppings from the welds, wax, what appeared to be foil of some kind and 30 years worth of other assorted gunk. None of it was enough to cause problems but it's one less unknown on my list.
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'83 240D |
#13
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I have read about imploding fuel tanks. Cleaning the vent is on the list of things to do this weekend. I might just run it with the fuel tank cap off for now. I know the tank isn't imploded yet because I have all the trunk lining out to fix a rust hole in the passenger side wheel well and I can see the tank.
The crud in the filter is black. The old filter was completely blacked out, so I am expecting fungus/algae along with what ever other junk is in there.
__________________
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors. 2003 S430 - 107K 1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+. 1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K. Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge |
#14
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Well I got my big box of parts today. I'll have plenty to do this weekend. I'll update everyone once I get further into my diagnosis.
__________________
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors. 2003 S430 - 107K 1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+. 1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K. Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge |
#15
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Quote:
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__________________
Andrew '04 Jetta TDI Wagon ![]() '82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold '77 300D ~ Sold
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