How difficult would it be to slap a multilink subframe from a 124 onto a 116, 123 or 126?

For reference, here are some pics from Dave M/gsxr's collection -





The hard points are the vertical tubes with blue thread locking compound and the spring perches. Note the strut just aft of the forward mount.

I'm still looking for the pictures of rolling the subframe from a 123 for comparison. Charlie, do you have the keywords?

Sixto
87 300D

Here's a T123 subframe -



Already a key difference is the springs are ahead of the axles.

Sixto
87 300D

Seems like it would be nearly impossible, since the springs are located in front of the axles on the 123 and in front on the 124. There are also mounting points on the rear of the 124 subframe that aren't there on the 123 subframe. It's kind of hard to tell but it also looks like the distance from the front anchor point to the axle of the 123 subframe is longer than the 124 frame. Which would put the wheels in the wrong location.

Just curious why you'd want to make this swap?

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I think you'd need to torch out the entire rear frame sections that include the spring perches and all four subframe mounting points. I've been considering a similar concept for a Ponton ratrod project with a built 60X engine and 124 chassis bits. Lots of work

You might have to graft in a w124 rear tub into the w123 to be able to use the w124 subframe.

Only reason I can think of using the w124 rear subframe is if you are going autocrossing or some sort of road course racing.



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1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

I read an article about someone that did something similar. Plopped a 190D ponton body onto a 201 190D chassis. I'm looking for the article.

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Just thinking out loud I don't drive hard enough to appreciate the benefits of the 124's multilink over the 126's semi-trailing link. I don't have enough helm time in a 123 to know that it's different from a 126. I know a V8 easily overpowers the swing axle in a W109. Scary!

Sixto
87 300D

The 114 through to W126 all use the same design rear subframe. I wouldn't bother with fitting a W124 multilink rear assembly in there. What you need to find is a diff assembly with anti squat links, You can recognise these because they have alloy lower arms with 107 part numbers.
All you the same rear brakes but the anti squat rear ends have different brake hoses.
Doing this,you could bolt in a W116 450SEL 6.9 diff with LSD and anti squat with a high diff ratio for lower fuel consumption ( I know someone who has installed one in a W123 280CE ) or a W126 560 diff to add ABS .

Ah ha! So it can be done!

I've been looking for that answer for some time =>

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/289638-w123-w126-trailing-arm-compatibility-question.html

Do you know if he modified the rear anti-roll bar from the W126 to fit the W123 or if he modified the ends of the W123 anti-roll bar?

@sixto - sorry to thread jack => I can offer some pictures of the underside of the W123 in this thread showing how the metal work is put together just in case you do fancy grafting on a W124 rear end!

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body-repair-restoration/303669-my-w123-saloon-sedan-old-accident-repair-bit-rust-repair-thread.html

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

The anti squat rear end seems to be a bit unusual in the USA but everywhere else it's as common as dirt. I have owned W114's which had it. What must be remembered is that W114/115 and W107's are the same mechanically.
The W116 and W123 use the same basic chassis .
The W126 diff is simply a later version of the above. My 380SE has the alloy W107 trailing arms as does my W123 300TD.
This means that everything can be swapped about. You can use the W123 rear torsion bar with the W116 diff and the plastic and the steel tierod link rods can also be swapped about.
The easiest place to find an antisquat diff is under a 6.9.

In that other post,you can see the later diffs (series 2 W126) have different sort of rear mount .Thats no big deal,just look for Series one cars in the wrecking yards.
as an aside the 280CE really struggles with a 2.4 diff LOL!
I know a guy in your part of the World who can help,Marc Van deVelde ,
http://www.autopartsvandevelde.be/

Ron, So it's both easier and more benefitial to upgrade the older 108, 111, 113, etc rear to the multi-link format?

-CTH

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- cth350@gmail.com
http://www.111lakeside.com/

Hello , I'm new here and hope you can help me , I have purchased a 1979 240 D manual transmission and my plan is to install a 560 engine , 5 speed manual box and thinking of installing the entire rear suspension of a 560 sel , my question is = can I bolt it right up with out any modifications ?

Big custom job. Putting a 5-speed in a 560SEL is a big enough job. Get rear SLS from a Euro W123 sedan and you're most of the way to 560SEL rear suspension.

Put a 560 engine and 5-speed in this - 1982 Mercedes Benz 280 Euro Sedan. Rare 4speed Manual.

Sixto
MB-less

Hello Sixto , my concern is the torque of the 560 engine and the diff of a 123 , I install a Ford 5.0 in a 190 e and did not last so I have to install the diff of a 400 e , did you compare the bolt pattern of the 123 and 126 ? . Thanks

They're similar but not identical so you'll have to modify the subframe. Maybe you can fit 560 gears into a 123 housing.

Sixto
MB-less