The car starts better the longer I let the glowplugs stay on before I start it. Should have mentioned this earlier, we tested the glowplug system. My Dad thought that was the issue, but everything worked fine. However, when I start the car, sometimes it shuts off by itself, basically a stall. Then I try again, and the car runs and warms up fine. Do I need to adjust valves?? The car recently had head work before I bought it. So I figured it would be fine. I really love this car, but would like to make it more reliable. Im thinking maybe if I clean the injectors?? I have no idea of it shop history, the guy was asking $1200, there is no rust, no carpet, needed little odds and ends. I want to clean the injectors, and use a carbon reamer around the glowplugs. Think that will help??

Brand-new Bosch glow plugs won't do any good if the preglow electrics aren't working. Put a voltmeter on the connection at each glow plug and turn on the key; make sure you have 10-11 volts at each glow plug.

Your oil choice is good, no help needed there. I don't think it is necessary to "clean the carbon out of the motor." I'm not sure what such a procedure entails and I don't think you know either.

At -55F, #2 diesel fuel will gel. I was in Nevada in 1990 when the temperature dropped to -35F overnight and the diesel trucks died like flies. You should use a fuel heater and/or #1 diesel, which is basically kerosene. You can mix kerosene with #2 diesel that's already in your fuel tank.

Many other tips have already been given by others. A block heater will need to have at least 4 hours in below-zero conditions to do any good. Overnight and in a garage would be better. At -55F, the engine may lose heat faster than it is generated by an idling motor -- you will have to experiment. Blocking the radiator with cardboard is a good idea but keep an eye on the temperature gauge.

Put a trickle charger on the battery whenever the car is parked in cold weather. The trickle charger will not only keep the battery fully charged but will keep it a little warmer and perhaps prevent the electrolyte from freezing. A cold battery loses much of its ability to supply large amounts of current to a starter motor. There are also heating plates that you can attach to the side of the battery to help keep it warm but the trickle charger may be enough.

Let us know what you end up doing and how it works out.

Jeremy

__________________

"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

Well, we had tested the glowplugs, but by now, I have forgotten what the actual voltage came to. I might be able to test later. No, it does not stay in a garage, my parents new Lincoln Navigator and 1968 Cadillac Eldorado are in the garage. I will be getting my license in less than 3 months and won't drive it much until then, if at all. I want to get two new block heaters and heater pads for the engine and transmission pan. Right now has only one block heater, and engine pan heater. Well, I cannot think of anything else. OH!!! Up here where it gets really cold, the gas stations only sell #1 diesel, all year round. I am not wondering if enough daily driving will make the car run better. My Dad thinks that it might help, because they used to have a 1996+/- Pontiac Grand Prix(I know its not an MB diesel) and it would not want to start if they didn't drive it daily, if they waited a few days, the car would not start or warm up very nicely. Hmm, well, I need to get ready to start school. I'm homeschooled, so working on the MB is school!!! Good Luck to everyone, Thank You , and God Bless!!

Assuming your engine is in good working order, your difficulties are probably related to the cloud and gel points of D1. You are well below both.

Talk to other local diesel owners and learn more about the types of fuel additives they use to lower the gel point further and what they do to preheat fuel being delivered from the fuel tank.

You obviously need to make use of plugins whenever you park for longer than a few minutes. Even gassers plugin at grocery stores in Fairbanks.

edit: parking outdoors during one of these cold spells pretty much guarantee's your MB is a paperweight until it warms up some.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

Warning some of this advice is only applicable to the extreme ALASKA weather and wilderness = Life or Death conditions that are daily fact-reality, and may be dangerous to you or your vehicle in other locations.



IMO "Amsoil" is seriously over priced, any full synthetic 0W-40 or 5W-40 exceeds the original factory specification for your extreme weather conditions.

Add two or three gallons of kerosene to each tank of fuel to prevent jelling.
Cycle the glow plugs twice, until you hear the relay CLUNK = turn off, then start the engine.

Timers to turn on the heaters four hours before starting.
A functional factory block heater is critical at -55° F.
A tarp to cover at least the front of the car-engine compartment will help.

A glue on oil pan heater and a battery warmer-heating pad is very helpful.
Adding a second battery + upgrading to a heavy alternator is smart.

Installed a 143A alternator in my W124 (86-95E-class) - with photos
Installed a 143A alternator in my W124 (86-95E-class) - with photos

"Alternator" 115 Amp Bosch AL129X works in 123s!
"Alternator" 115 Amp Bosch AL129X works in 123s! - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum


(consult your Father) I have seen effective diesel intake heater (heat gun) modifications for "Alaska" and "Hudson Bay, Canada".
If possible, carry a small 110V generator + power cords for long distance away-road starting as part of your emergency kit.
I assume you carry "sterno" in your emergency kit, (consult your Father) if you are in a dire (Life-Death) emergency and exercise caution, it can be used to heat the oil pan.

Carry HEAVY jumper cables.

Where can I find the Mother of all Jumper Cables?
Where can I find the Mother of all Jumper Cables? - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

Cold weather starting links

.

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Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
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1985 300SD
1983 300D
2003 Volvo V70

https://www.boldegoist.com/

Having spent nearly 3 years and two Austral winters in Antarctica, I can tell you that diesels can and do operate in those temperatures and lower.

That being said, once started in the AM they run until quitting time, including during lunch. They are then plugged in overnight. Some equipment will require more than one outlet.

Another thing worth mentioning is that they don't run on what we'd call "diesel", but rather JP8 which is closer to a kerosene blend. It has a lower gelling point than diesel, but lacks the same lubricity which causes long term problems.

As much as we like to think our MBs as being capable to do the impossible, some expectations just can't be met. At a guess, I think a well maintained and 100% functional car such as yours would be legitimate daily driver down to 0F, perhaps down to -10 with a fresh battery and plunged in overnight. Factor in lower compression, weak battery, tired injectors, or no outlet nearby and, as someone stated above, you have a driveway queen until the spring thaw.

__________________
1974 240D "Boldie" 170K.- New timing chain/freshly rebuilt IP/replaced valve seals/injectors/upgraded stereo/new Bilsteins with Yokohamas/fresh paint and rocker panels plus lots of welds.

I've never minded the cold much but I cannot imagine living somewhere that regularly sees temperatures of -55F. I think I'd just ride a Tauntaun.

I was faced with trying to start my 240D after having to replace all the glow plugs. High mileage engine, lots of blowby, and for sure a bunch of unburned fuel in the cylinders form failed attempts at starting. It was about 12F outside. Decided to creatively appoint the wife's hairdryer to give a little heat inside the cylinders. Didn't want to overheat the starter or drain the battery.
Removed air cleaner cover, and shot the hairdryer right down the intake. Cranked the car a couple of short cranks to change the volume in the cylinders. Then started it up. It was like starting a locomotive. Cranked for what seemed like forever as one, then two, then all four cylinders began to fire. Had a real good grip on the hairdryer. Car wasn't up to full idle before the hairdryer was removed. It died. Tried again, preheated for about one minute this time, and it finally got the idea that I really did expect it to run on that cold day (cold by Western Washington State standards), and it ran fine.
I didn't want to inject explosives into it (starting fluids), heard too many bad stories.
In your case a genuine heat gun may be in order. A hairdryer may only raise the temp of the injected air to 35F... just don't use a fossil fuel-fired heat gun, I don't think the CO2 in the air stream would help ignition. But I may be wrong! I've never seen -5F here, let alone -55F!!! Of course, this was in addition to an electric heat source under the oil pan. The 35 MPH winds tended to negate a lot of the heat; the upper part of the engine remained cold, although the oil temp was about 115F.
Bottom line I guess here would be make sure there is some heat-the oil, coolant, and intake air. Provide some sort of cover- I used a sleeping bag under the hood to prevent the heat from just flowing out of the engine compartment. I used a retired sleeping bag under the car on rolled up to block the wind from the north and east side. Kept it about 20" away from the heat source- a hotplate. You know the type. Basically a portable stove burner, about 10 bucks. In your case I would definitely recommend something more permanent.
We homeschool here, too. One daughter is buying a 300TD next week. Another is looking to get one around the end of summer. Yes, old Mercedes diesels were part of the homeschooling. Good luck!

snapped_bolt

I have no additional meaningful advice to offer besides, 'Get the hell outta there."

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Spent 3 years in Edmonton,, - 45 for 2 weeks,, block heater battery blanket,, cover the grill to prevent heat lose when using the block heater,, and oil pan heater,, not less then 500 watts, I have heard of the dip stick oil heater but never seen one,,, the oil pan heater is magnetic, and helps to get the oil warm, which helps starting,, also better for oil flow,, At 45 below C most people left the eng running if no outlets were available.

I can barely move myself at -55.

__________________
Jim

The heat gun down the intake is a neat idea, and sounds akin, at least to some degree, to what Cummins does with their ISB motors. Granted, they are DI engines and naturally will turn over better in cold temps, I bet all the above advice plus a little "artifical South Beach" will get that engine firing. If you guys have one of those big propane blast heaters (not really sure what to call them, but I see them at ski resorts on the outside seating areas, looks like a heat cannon basically), I bet it would be possible to introduce some powerful heat to the engine from a safe distance, on top of the block heater of course.

It is not as cold as you would think, but it is still COLD. I think I will talk to another W123 owner here in Fairbanks, and see what he suggests for the winter time. Thank You everybody for your help!!!

Buy a cheap used Honda civic or Toyota corolla to drive during the winters?

This seems to work.

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85 300 SD ~ 115K
82 500 SEC Euro ??K
78 450SL 164K