W124 Custom made bracket for jacking point? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

benedict · #1 10-31-2011, 07:15 AM

Hi everyone,

Does anyone know where I might be able to buy something like this of the shelf?

It would give me somewhat more confidence getting under the car with a set of these. I have a good set of ramps but they don't help for suspension related work.

Thanks

Air&Road · #2 10-31-2011, 07:51 AM

No, but it would be SUPER easy to make and pretty cheap to have made if you don't weld. Go find the correct size tubing and let the welding shop cut and weld the plate. Probably no more than an hour of shop time.

That said, I assume that you are using a floor jack. If so you can throw a floor jack just inboard of this point at the rear. There is a beam that runs the whole fore and aft on each side beginning with the front turn up rails all the way to the rear fender opening. You can put it in there about anywhere with no worries. To lift the front, place the jack under the most forward FLAT section of the turn up rail.

benedict · #3 10-31-2011, 07:59 AM

Larrybible Thanks.

I have actually jacked up the car where you mentioned but I was looking at something like these brackets as a way of putting the car on jack stands.

I'm due for a complete front/rear suspension rebuild, so thought the brackets would be a safer option.
Not terribly keen about placing jack stands under those plastic bumps...all a bit slippery for my likeing.

vstech · #4 10-31-2011, 08:41 AM

that would scare me to use as a jack stand mount...

Zulfiqar · #5 10-31-2011, 10:41 AM

A thick bolt snug fitting into the jack hole would be perfect, The bolt can then rest on the U in the jack stand.

ToddM300SD · #6 10-31-2011, 12:27 PM

There is a similar tool made for air-cooled 911's. It has a square-shaped shank. I had one for my Porsche. It worked great with a floor jack. Peach Parts should make one. I don't know if I'd want to use it with axle stands. That jack hole is made to support one side of the car. I would not want to be under a 4000lb Mercedes if the support gave out!

Todd

WINGAS · #7 10-31-2011, 12:29 PM

1/2" drive extension works fine. Don't know if Craftsman would warranty it for this app!

1/2"-5/8" grade 8 bolt would work fine as well.

Zulfiqar · #8 10-31-2011, 12:32 PM

Ive seen the bolt in jack hole used by many tire shops to lift such models that were lowered. but only one side a time, - I too would have a hard time trusting that one bolt for all the weight.

sixto · #9 10-31-2011, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benedict

I'm due for a complete front/rear suspension rebuild, so thought the brackets would be a safer option.
Not terribly keen about placing jack stands under those plastic bumps...all a bit slippery for my likeing.

How can it be safer to rest the weight of the car on a cantilevered member that isn't firmly attached to the car? Since you're fabricating anyway, fabricate cupped saddles to fit between your jack stands and the rubber lifting pads. Or set the jack stands just forward or aft of the rubber pads.

Here's how gsxr supports his car for rear suspension work -

Sixto
87 300D

leathermang · #10 10-31-2011, 12:47 PM

I believe on the 123 models...which have something like this for jacking up the car using the side holes.... that that is for jacking up only and that the jack stands are supposed to be used before you get under it... it puts the means of raising far enough from the LEGIT point under the body for the rigid jack stands to be placed under the car....and the weight let back down on them.... ( from pics in the 123 FSM )...

Air&Road · #11 10-31-2011, 01:40 PM

Jack stands? Ooo... I just assumed that you wanted to make one of these to raise a corner for tire/wheel work. Are you talking about setting all four corners on jackstands using these?

If I'm putting my worthless butt underneath the car I want my jackstands under something that can't slip out of position. Sixto's picture of jackstand location would be much more substantial.

BTW, sixto, you're missing a few parts out from under the rear.

Orv · #12 10-31-2011, 02:21 PM

I like the idea of using two sets of stands. I was under my car the other day while it was on two stands, and it occurred to me that I was putting a lot of trust in the locking hardware. I'd feel a lot safer with a backup if one stand failed.

vstech · #13 10-31-2011, 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixto

How can it be safer to rest the weight of the car on a cantilevered member that isn't firmly attached to the car? Since you're fabricating anyway, fabricate cupped saddles to fit between your jack stands and the rubber lifting pads. Or set the jack stands just forward or aft of the rubber pads.

Here's how gsxr supports his car for rear suspension work -

Sixto
87 300D

... the craftsman yellow/black stands are ok, but the gray mastercraft or whatever brand those little stands are, are really dangerous. I've had several fail where the tongue pivots on the release handle... very difficult to see until you've not got them locked in position... careful, careful, careful!!!
good to see you are on concrete, and have backup stands to your stands!

Jeremy5848 · #14 10-31-2011, 02:50 PM

I use the car's own jack to get the car up in the air and then put a jack stand under the rubber pad. I use a small piece of plywood as an additional cushion between the jack stand and the car.

I have seen adapters like the one in the OP's picture, made to fit in high-end (professional) trolley jacks. It allows you to do the same thing I do with the car's own jack but maybe a little easier (a few pushes rather than many cranks).

Backups are good. I've used a second jack stand, a block of wood, a spare tire, anything to provide a little insurance. When jacking with the car's own jack, I almost always leave the jack in place at the last place, with most of the tension released so the weight is on the jack stand. Keeping the jack in place provides one more backup and keeps the jack out of the way -- one less thing to trip on as you move around the car.

Jeremy

benedict · #15 10-31-2011, 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixto

How can it be safer to rest the weight of the car on a cantilevered member that isn't firmly attached to the car? Since you're fabricating anyway, fabricate cupped saddles to fit between your jack stands and the rubber lifting pads. Or set the jack stands just forward or aft of the rubber pads.

Here's how gsxr supports his car for rear suspension work -

Sixto
87 300D

Sixto, Point taken.I'm just trying to find the safest way without the use of a workshop hoist.
Does your car in this picture have the plastic body skirts down the lower sides? I like where you have your yellow/black (?Crafstmen) stands, but I'm not sure that my car is that accessible to place the yellow tongue of the stands. Will check when my wife returns with the car but I'm pretty sure the plastic body on my car rolls under 2 or 3 inches covering the rail.