1968 200D value east coast - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

MTUpower · #1 10-06-2011, 02:35 PM

I'm going to see a 1968 200D in what appears to be quite good condition. I do not know if it has original paint, but the engine seems to work fine, and the tranny shifts without noises. Not much visible rust, and the interior is said to be good shape. Odo may or may not work.
What is the range of price values that could be given for a car like this?

barry123400 · #2 10-06-2011, 04:34 PM

No real established market price on these I would think. Condition and what you feel it is worth to you in my opinion. Really check for rust in bad places before getting too serious.

Squiggle Dog · #3 10-07-2011, 12:11 PM

Typically you can pick up one of these inexpensively. They are too "antique" for most Mercedes enthusiasts, but too "foreign" for most classic car collectors. In reality, they are the best of both worlds. They have the styling of a 1950s American car, and the handling and safety of... probably a 1990s American car.

$1,000 seems to be the average sale price for one that needs work. A pristine, reliable daily driver might sell for $3,000-$5,000. A restored or very low mileage and preserved original might sell for $8,000.

I bought my 1968 200D for $1,200 after talking the seller down from $1,600 or so. I was able to drive it home, but all of the wear and tear mechanical parts were bad.

I spent over $3,000 in parts to make it a reliable daily commuter, but it still leaked water in and had rust problems. I tried selling it for months and couldn't even get $1,000 for it, despite having it on eBay, craigslist, and every Mercedes forum. I ended up having to part it out.

But, I still think they are great cars and I would indeed own another one because they are easy to work on, easy to get parts for, have decent acceleration, great fuel economy, are comfortable to drive, and are relatively safe.

The bad thing is that the weatherstripping to keep the car from becoming a bathtub will cost between $2,000-$3,000. And these cars like to rust!

alabbasi · #4 10-07-2011, 03:15 PM

Wouldn't a 68 be a /8 W115 model?

strelnik · #5 10-07-2011, 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MTUpower

I'm going to see a 1968 200D in what appears to be quite good condition. I do not know if it has original paint, but the engine seems to work fine, and the tranny shifts without noises. Not much visible rust, and the interior is said to be good shape. Odo may or may not work.
What is the range of price values that could be given for a car like this?

These are actually solid cars and have a good power train.

They need rust proofing around the rockers especially, because the steel is not galvanized.

The only place where people I know have problems with these cars is trunk seals. You can get these to be water tight.

The other point: they have mulytiple drain holes in various places which people neglect, so if you check them out in doors and rust proof the rockers and clear out the trunk drains which most people forget, Your car will last. As long as it hasn't rusted to pieces already.

Rocker panels are cheap or can be made, the ponton and Heckfloose ( 68 200D) bodies are pretty sturdy unless completely neglected.

Most people fail to tune these diesels so they run slow and belch smoke. they can be spiffed up with a little careful maintenance. There are a couple of Bosch books on the topic.

I have several ponton diesels to take apart and sell, so I' can't help you, but others here can.

1000-1400, cash, because you have a lot of maintenance to do.
The OM621 engine is pretty solid if not too badly neglected. The cam is the same as the OM6i5 and OM 616

Good luck!

KCM · #6 10-07-2011, 07:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alabbasi

Wouldn't a 68 be a /8 W115 model?

Could be a 200D W110 body or a 200D/8 W115 body as the last of the W110 models were still being made for 1968. I assume a midyear introduction, hence the /8 to tell the difference. MTUpower does not give enough info to know which one they are looking at. Today a manufacturer would bump up to the next year with a new model intro. Not sure if the W115/8 200D used the OM621 engine or the OM615.

Palangi · #7 10-07-2011, 08:39 PM

68 was a bad year for engines on these things. This includes both the last of the 200D / OM621's and the first of the 220D / OM615's. Cylinders oval out due to soft metal. If it has lasted this long, the engine probably has been replaced, but be wary of one with an original engine.

MTUpower · #8 10-07-2011, 10:25 PM

Here's a pic

NCfriend · #9 10-07-2011, 10:56 PM

Don't know these cars; but fins and curves are hard to resist!

If it helps there is a '66 200d locally in the middle of the east coast
1966 Mercedes 200d
Not mine, and even from 50 feet I don't think it compares to your photo
sorry: $800 obo

tram · #10 10-08-2011, 05:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MTUpower

Here's a pic

Don't think that's a '68 as there are no side markers. Probably a mis-titled '67.

t walgamuth · #11 10-08-2011, 07:10 AM

As a 68 it could be either the older fintail or the newer 115 body. Both are very very rustprone but the fintails are probably worse. The 115 will have the rear suspension that carries right through the 123 and 126 models, with the fintail having swing axles.

The value of any other than rustfree bodies is virtually nil as a collector device so the only value is parts or as a driver.

strelnik · #12 10-08-2011, 08:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MTUpower

Here's a pic

i have a spare OM621 engine I would sell reasonably if you needed it

Squiggle Dog · #13 10-09-2011, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Palangi

68 was a bad year for engines on these things. This includes both the last of the 200D / OM621's and the first of the 220D / OM615's. Cylinders oval out due to soft metal. If it has lasted this long, the engine probably has been replaced, but be wary of one with an original engine.

That's what I have heard and read, yet when I was selling my 1968 200D, I told this to an ex-factory mechanic and he looked at me like I was the most ignorant person in the world and said, "Where did you hear that?"

I replied, "I have heard from others that it was because of a steel strike at the time."

He laughed, "Ha, ha, ha, ha, ha! I always love hearing these fabrications that people come up with."

I said that I had heard it from factory mechanics, to which he responded, "I was in my apprenticeship when these cars were made and I NEVER heard of such a thing! Nothing like hearing it straight from the horse's mouth."

The guy was rude and arrogant; acted like I was just a dumb young kid that didn't know anything about Mercedes. I'm glad that he didn't buy it.

MTUpower · #14 10-10-2011, 11:55 AM

Here's the car. The engine starts right up after glowing and has almost no smoke. It drives just fine, but slow. There is a major fuel leak at the IP. The tranny shifts without issues. A/C is ICE cold, amazingly. Radio works, all gauges and other items save the right blinker work- it is now a "manual". The rust is hidden and the car has been repainted okay. The rust is not horrible, but certainly terminal. It used to be green and now it's a greenish creme. It looks like a nice sunday driver. What could this sell for around the country?

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barry123400 · #15 10-11-2011, 09:31 AM

Well depending on how long ago it was painted is also important. If not long ago they did a basic coverup. Rather than competent proper bodywork under the paint. Car has my favorite instrument cluster including the barber pole speedometer.

These to me are getting towards the real attention to detail assembly end period used by mercedes. Rust was always a serious issue. If still interested try to restrain yourself from paying too much for it.

You have to get this car up on a hoist and check for rust carefully in the chassis. Fresher coverup undercoating present walk. Mercedes went to unibody earlier than most makes. They just did not do proper rust preventative work to ensure long body lifespan unfortunatly. For the initial cost of their cars this was unfortunate.