190D ball joint R&R. How much pressure is needed to press it in/out? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ah-kay · #1 08-02-2011, 01:24 PM

I tried to replace the lower ball joint and I ran into problem. I chained up the spring and separated the ball joint from the strut. I tried to hammer it out and no luck. I borrowed a heavy duty press from O'Reilly and managed to press the old one out, after blow torching it. It was a tough job and destroyed the old one in the process.

Now the question is how easy to press it in? If the same amount of force is needed to press it out is needed then I am afraid I may damage the new one.

Anything tips and prep I need to do to make it easier? I am thinking of heating up the rim and/or putting the new BJ into a freezer before pressing it in. If the worst comes to the worst then I may remove the LCA and take them to the shop to ask them to press it in. I never expect it to be so difficult with the W201. Why don't they make it like a W124 ( I think it is a bolt on assembly )?

Any thoughts? Thanks.

boneheaddoctor · #2 08-02-2011, 01:42 PM

You aren't pressing in a ball joint without a hydraulic press. It does take a LOT to press it in....after all, they can stay there for 200K + miles of potholes etc without falling out.

junqueyardjim · #3 08-02-2011, 01:42 PM

Putting it in the freezer for a number of hours will probably give you some working room, but if it went in as hard as they did on my W123 yesterday, I don't think you will get them in. But you might if you get your suspension set up on a really solid base, (use heavy steel jack stands), use something like a big heavy duty socket to protect the ball and have a heavy hammer to drive it in "in a hurry"! If you can't get it in all the way, fast, you will be up the creek. I think you should disassemble the suspension and take it to a shop where they can press it in for you.

Local2ED · #4 08-03-2011, 12:17 AM

I took mine to an auto parts/machine shop. Came back in one hour and picked it up cost me $10.00.

weird beard · #5 08-03-2011, 03:38 PM

just to get the last one I did out took a lot of heat and fighting. Don't even attempt without a balljoint service kit.

ah-kay · #6 08-03-2011, 03:58 PM

I have decided to remove the arm and take it to the shop to press it in. The press I borrowed from O'Reilly is quite heavy duty but I doubt it will do the trick. I returned it today as the loan period is 48 hrs.

The problem is that I can only do one at a time as I only have 1 quality chain to lock the spring. The 190D will be off the road for 2 weeks at least. That is why you must have back up cars when you tinker with old cars.

taylorsyn · #7 08-04-2011, 03:13 PM

I just rebuilt the lower control arms in my 190D, I took an angle grinder with a cut off wheel to the top half of the ball joint, with a flat surface then used a two jaw puller to pop the joint out.

Pressing it back in proved to be futile, I was using 2 pieces of hard wood and a 8 inch C clamp, it started to go in and then the C clamp bent.

I just took it to a machine shop and they pressed in the new bushings and ball joint.

scottmcphee · #8 08-04-2011, 03:28 PM

I think a 20 ton press would do it, but haven't tried.

bigblockchev · #9 08-04-2011, 05:53 PM

I have been quite successful using a bigish ballpein to hit the side of the arm at 90deg to the axis on the ball joint. I use a larger 2 plus pound hammer as a backup on the other side. No heat, no pullers no picklefork no screwed up threads just brute force and ignorance. I can't remember the last time this did not work. An old mechanic who restores 55-57 chevys to perfection taught me this. Try it out, it temporarly deforms the side of the link which causes the taper holding the joint to let go. If you leave the nut loose on the thread it prevents the ball from launching across the shop or hitting you in the eye. Cheers Dan

tangofox007 · #10 08-04-2011, 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigblockchev

I have been quite successful using a bigish ballpein to hit the side of the arm at 90deg to the axis on the ball joint. I use a larger 2 plus pound hammer as a backup on the other side. No heat, no pullers no picklefork no screwed up threads just brute force and ignorance. I can't remember the last time this did not work. An old mechanic who restores 55-57 chevys to perfection taught me this. Try it out, it temporarly deforms the side of the link which causes the taper holding the joint to let go. If you leave the nut loose on the thread it prevents the ball from launching across the shop or hitting you in the eye. Cheers Dan

"Separating" is one thing; "removing and installing" is another.

bigblockchev · #11 08-04-2011, 09:58 PM

I have found that reinstalling the ball joint is not an issue. If you remove the ball joint with a pickle fork or press you either screw up the boot or a press the threads. I did indicate that the deformation of the taper is temporary ie instantaneous not exceeding the elastic limit. There are times when you want to take a ball joint apart and re use it if it is still ok. or want to take the suspension apart to get at something else. This allows for that possibility without requiring an alignment afterwards. Percussive maintenance is an art but it has been successful for me. Cheers Dan

boneheaddoctor · #12 08-04-2011, 10:58 PM

The poster was actually asking about pressing a new ball joint into the steering knuckle after getting the old one out. Wailing away on a new ball joint with a hammer to pound it into the knuckle is going to result in doing it again real soon.

But your point in SEPARATING a ball joint or tie rod that doesn't want to let go at the taper joint is well taken. They can be a real SOB at times. Even with a pickle fork. I once destroyed a new picklefork trying to get a lower ball joint to pop loose.

Diesel911 · #13 08-05-2011, 11:53 AM

When I had to press in a Ball Joint on a 123 I used a C-press. The main issue I found with the C-Press is that the fit on the Threaded aera is sloppy making it hard to press something in straight.
Also some of the other parts of the Press were rough castings; also not good for precision.

Another thing I found out is that the URO Ball Joints not only had more surface area the OD was actually larger that the Lemforder Ball Joints I also had. That would mean the URO Ball Joints would have been much harder to press in.