Does using a biocide require near-term replacement of fuel filters? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

shertex · #1 07-23-2011, 11:12 AM

Friend has 95 E300. When first purchased, was getting clogged fuel filters every several thousand miles (was told fuel tank likely contaminated)....although recently car has gone about 10,000 miles without a change. He suspects car wasn't driven much by previous owner, so I'm recommending using a biocide (like BioKleen) to address the issue decisively.

My question: if there are microbes/fungi in the tank, and if a biocide is used, does the crud simply dissolve and thus not clog the filter? Or does the biocide simply loosen stuff up, thus making it likely that the filters will clog?

Thanks.

leathermang · #2 07-23-2011, 11:21 AM

From what I have read it is prudent to keep new filters available for quick insertion... it all depends on the severity of the original infection..

Jeremy5848 · #3 07-23-2011, 11:29 AM

Agreed. Keep an eye on the primary filter. If it starts to fill up with crud, change it and keep changing it (possibly every few hundred miles) until it stays clear, then change the secondary and you should be good to go.

Jeremy

oldsinner111 · #4 07-23-2011, 11:38 AM

I clean my primary filter with gasoline and reuse.This way a filter last 6 months or more.

compress ignite · #5 07-23-2011, 11:58 AM

The Fungal Corpus (Little Black/Brown DEAD "Bugs",that would normally clog)
are dissected Microscopically and Burn Off Safely AFTER Passing through the
Filters.

http://mystarbrite.com/startron//content/view/94/124/lang,en/

t walgamuth · #6 07-23-2011, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by compress ignite

The Fungal Corpus (Little Black/Brown DEAD "Bugs",that would normally clog)
are dissected Microscopically and Burn Off Safely AFTER Passing through the
Filters.

http://mystarbrite.com/startron//content/view/94/124/lang,en/

x2 not necessary to change filters in my experience, but it won't hurt anything.

shertex · #7 07-23-2011, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeremy5848

Agreed. Keep an eye on the primary filter. If it starts to fill up with crud, change it and keep changing it (possibly every few hundred miles) until it stays clear, then change the secondary and you should be good to go.

Jeremy

So it sounds like that, typically with a bio infection, most of the crud is large enough that it gets trapped in the primary filter, with some smaller staff passing to the secondary. Is that correct?

Junkman · #8 07-23-2011, 03:01 PM

I change fuel filters every other oil change AND keep 2 sets in the trunk with tools. The tools are dedicated to the trunk and I consider the trunk to be their correct storage place - never in the tool box in the shop.

t walgamuth · #9 07-23-2011, 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shertex

So it sounds like that, typically with a bio infection, most of the crud is large enough that it gets trapped in the primary filter, with some smaller staff passing to the secondary. Is that correct?

not really.

compress ignite · #10 07-23-2011, 03:44 PM

Use Biocide (s) ,Then You: (HAVE TO) can add the Added Expense of filter R+R.

Use Startron and go about your business, without the Filter worry.

GregMN · #11 07-23-2011, 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shertex

....although recently car has gone about 10,000 miles without a change...

If it's gone 10,000 miles and still hasn't clogged a filter, whats the need to do anything?

Jeremy5848 · #12 07-23-2011, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shertex

So it sounds like that, typically with a bio infection, most of the crud is large enough that it gets trapped in the primary filter, with some smaller staff passing to the secondary. Is that correct?

So I thought but from the other responses it appears I am wrong. In any case, I have never had a crud problem in any of my diesels so I probably should keep quiet. Keep an eye on the primary filter anyway.

Jeremy

ROLLGUY · #13 07-23-2011, 11:34 PM

My '95 E300 only had one fuel filter (secondary on cars with both). I added a primary see through in-line filter. I have a Mitsubishi turbodiesel pickup that had a bad case of fungus in the tank. I installed a primary in-line filter. When the power gets low, I pop the hood and pull the inline filter and drain it into a water bottle. That keeps all the fungi from clogging the main filter. Once the problem cleared up, it goes for may tanks before needing the in-line cleaned out. This has saved several main filter changes (cost about $15 at NAPA). I have only replaced the in-line filter twice since installing it 20,000 or so miles ago.

shertex · #14 07-24-2011, 06:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregMN

If it's gone 10,000 miles and still hasn't clogged a filter, whats the need to do anything?

Perhaps no need. But my working assumption is that, although the tank has been cleaned out to some degree because of frequent tank refills (he drives about 2200 miles per month), there's probably still something growing in there.

t walgamuth · #15 07-24-2011, 08:18 AM

If there is no water present in the tank you should not get any new growth. Then the only way to get bacteria is from an infected supply tank. It happens occasionally.

If I had bacteria and used a good biocide on it I would consider it done unless I got reinfected.

I have driven some of my diesels a decade or more without infection.