I started a new thread here from my past one to narrow down another issue for my ongoing front suspension issues. I wanted to replace the front shocks in the car but the lower bolts seem to be rusted into the control arm and also have those tiny ridiculous torx head bolts. Does anyone have advice on how to remove them?

You can get those fancy sockets that grip onto knackered hex heads. They might help.

To get more space to work on the screw head behind the shock remove the shock connection at the top (making sure you don't undo the internal parts of the shock by accident! This means hold a spanner on the flat whilst undoing the lock nut(s)) and lower the hub as far at it will go. If you are quick you should be able to get the top part of the shock out of the locating hole.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Be careful reinstalling those little bolts. I had to drill and tap both of them in the passenger side LCA after they stripped way too easily tightening them. I wasn't 'going for it' when tightening them, either. I ended use some injector pump drive bolts from the injector pump in my F350 that were left over, that were a tiny bit bigger that the originals.

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1985 300D-189k The 'UD', Ivory and Pinkamino
1979 300D-211k Dark Gray, Parchment
A 1980 Harley-~166k and
A 1994 Ford diesel pickup-349k and
A 1990 gasser Volvo wagon-145k

Those are nothing special bolts. I use a 10mm 12 point half inch drive with an extension. easy peasy. put penetrating oil on them and they should come right out. The tip about unhooking the top of the shock and leaning it either way is also crucial to the job.

A little different but a good setup once you see how it has to work.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Agreed, 12 point hex, not torx.

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83 SD

84 CD

I forgot to say when replacing them you are meant to use loctite.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Cook 'em, cool 'em. Three, maybe four cycles. Copious amounts of penetrating lube. I'm among the AeroKroil devotees.

Jay.

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On the road, currently:
'83 300D (German spec.) 168k mi. - - Wolfgang (tucked snugly away for the winter!)
'87 300D 375k mi. - finally went over to "The Dark Side"
'87 300TD 225k mi.
Cannondale 66cm CAAD5 w/Campy/Jamis Aurora
Hujsak Custom Fixie/Landshark Track Shark Custom/Ahearne Custom 29'er

Oh, yeah, if it's too late, and you've already buggered the 10mm 12-point heads, reverse drill bits are one of the seven wonders of the modern world.

Jay.

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On the road, currently:
'83 300D (German spec.) 168k mi. - - Wolfgang (tucked snugly away for the winter!)
'87 300D 375k mi. - finally went over to "The Dark Side"
'87 300TD 225k mi.
Cannondale 66cm CAAD5 w/Campy/Jamis Aurora
Hujsak Custom Fixie/Landshark Track Shark Custom/Ahearne Custom 29'er

I think we've seen some pictures of the underside of the car in other threads. I'm guessing those bolts are REALLY rusty. May not be an easy job.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Craftsman 12 point 10mm fit on mine.

Assuming you get them out, a tap to clean/re-cut the threads is probably a good idea to enable proper tightening torque on re-install. The new shocks should come with replacement bolts.

If you're unsure of the tap size, the bolt-matching templates at Lowe's/HD are useful. Diameter and coarse/fine thread need to match.

here's my DIY:

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123FrontShocks

Id recommend getting the liquid bottle of liquid wrench, or else kroil, and getting a good amount of that penetrating fluid on the bolts where they mount to the LCA. Give them a little while (a few days of continuous application would be nice), some sharp pressure (hit them via a screwdriver, punch or similar) to help break up the bonds and help the fluid to flow... then be patient.

If they are bad beyond that, youll need t move towards more severe removal processes...

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)