See photo, this short piece of fuel line is leaking and the dealer just told me it comes as a unit with the check valve and is $122!! There is not enough room in the hose to be able to bend a straight piece of fuel line.

I am going to a local hose shop on Monday and hope they can make me something like this.

If I just hit a $300M lottery I would not pay that much for this!!

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1995 E300 diesel

Well, when you do post the specs and part numbers the shop used to make it... and someone else can do the same thing without reinventing the wheel....

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

How about the bolt down the center of the main fuel filter. $139. Had to replace mine as it started leaking. Although what I see in your photo does not look like the same thing I have - there is no knob on it to shut off the engine in that photo. Maybe someone substituted a bolt from a 96 or 97.

Rgds,
Chris W.
'95 E300D 342K

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Objects in closer are mirror than they appear.

the knob is busted, just a piece of sharp plastic to turn

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1995 E300 diesel

roger that. Seems to be the only place in the fuel line that even looks suspect. BTW I run B100 down to B40 in the cold months.

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1995 E300 diesel

Update:

So the local stealership wanted $122 for it
Phil @ Fastlane was $112
www.bimmerparts.com was $92

Still too much!!

The ID of the fuel hose is 8mm which is approx 3/8. I got some new fuel line, hose clamps, and a brass 90 deg with barb on one side and threaded adapter to a barb on the other. I cut the one barbed end down just long enough for a hose clamp. It should fit, I'll take pics after I do it today or tomorrow.

Total parts cost under $10

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1995 E300 diesel

8mm is closer to 5/16 fuel line that'll take bio or diesel or gas or veggy... for less than $1/foot.

Those quarters look close, if you need the bent shaped hose with tight turning radius maybe that's what you're paying for? But if you have room to cut ample fuel line and give it a curvy route.. should be fine.. if you have the room. But a brass elbow for $2 could also solve the job.

11mm is close to 3/8".

you can get a check valve for diesel on ebay for $11

clamps, re-use the Mercedes, nothing better!

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Cheers!
Scott McPhee

1987 300D

Apparently that is true, but when I was in the auto parts store looking at the fuel lines the guy handed me a measuring caliper and I set it at 8mm and it seemed to match up to 3/8 hose to my eye. Oh well, perhaps headed back there later!

There is not enough play in the line to use a straight piece. I would have paid perhaps $20 for a curved piece of fuel line but $92 is crazy

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1995 E300 diesel

So indeed it is 5/16, I did a temp fix with the 3/8 line last night. There is another braided line coming off the barb from the fuel filter that was also leaking- I assume from having Biodiesel dripping on it from the split hose. I simply cut off about an inch and that seemed to cure it.

Is this the return line? The braided line runs underneath the engine cover, can't recall where that goes from when I had that cover off before.

I'll take a better pic once I get the 5/16 hose and brass 90 setup in place.

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1995 E300 diesel

do you absolutely have to have the curve - I beleive some return lines without the check valve are just plain straight fuel hose.

As far as I can tell you need the curve- I wrapped insulation around my fuel lines from the back to the front so I can run higher levels of biodiesel in cold weather- it extends to just below the check valve and I didn't feel like taking it apart to see if I can re-route the fuel line.

So here are my pics as promised, I did get the 5/16 fuel line and a brass barb with a 90 threaded fitting and a threaded 5/16 barb. I cut the barbs just short enough to get a hose clamp on- it is a little longer than the radius of the curve but still fits fine under the intake manifold. I used some yellow tape on the threads.

In the second photo with the hose off you can see the check valve below.

There was a small crack in the curved piece of hose at the top and it was hard as a rock. It was also dripping fuel onto the fabric covered hose below and I cut off about 3/4 inch and slid it back on because it had also started to leak.

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1995 E300 diesel

Interesting. I'd have used a foot or so of fuel line and tucked it under the manifold.

Sixto
87 300D

I do not know what works better over time for diesel. But, I do know that if you use fuel or fuel injection hose on return line for either power steering or transmission, over time the hose gets eaten by the oil and leaks. On my diesel lines when needed, I have been using power steering/transmission oil rated hose.
Just a thought.

This is the common Fuel Hose; SAE 30R7 by GoodYear I buy at the local parts stores.
It is rated for: Leaded and unleaded gasoline, diesel fuel, gasoline blends of ethanol (E10), E-85 and sour gas.
http://www.goodyearep.com/ProductsDetail.aspx?id=10526

The other commly sold Fuel Hose is made by Gates and has a similar rating.

This is the Fuel Injection Line SAE 30R9 that is said to be lined with Viton:
Rated for Fuel Injection Hose recommended for gasoline, ethanol, sour gas,diesel and Biodiesel fuels.
http://www.goodyearep.com/BuLandingPage.aspx?id=17700&terms=fuel+injection+hose

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

thats certainly an option

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1995 E300 diesel