My drivers side power window will not roll up all the way. I know that it is on the same circuit as the passenger side rear window, and that passenger side rear window goes up and down ok. The 25A fuse is not blown, but the connectors feel hot to the touch, compared to the other fuses. I took the switch out of the console, and unplugged it, and plugged in a switch that worked in other windows; still, no power to roll up the window. My assumption now is that there is a problem with the window motor itself. Would you draw the same conclusion? Where is the window motor? Are special tools needed to take panels off the door to get at it? Is this motor repairable or must it be replaced?

Members of this group have helpedwith excellent advice in the past. I hope tha someone has helpful advice for me with this problem.
Regards, all.

I replaced the driver's side window regulator (lift mechanism) because part of it was broken and could not be fixed. Getting the side panel off can take a bit of doing to avoid breaking/cracking the panel. It is easier if you have a special tool that will remove door panel clips/grommets - mine is a Snap-On and has a flat end with a u-shaped area that slips around the grommet to pull the grommet from the door itself (this is the best way because the metal won't crack/break like the door panel can) - you may find this tool at a local parts store since this grommet is common for US and foreign cars. There are several grommets holding the panel to the door - at least 6, probably more (I don't recall now). The arm rest has two large #3 Philips head screws holding it to the door, the door release has a smaller #2 Philips head screw that is accessed after removing the plastic cover (gently pry it out from behind the release handle), then the map carrier or pocket at the bottom of the door has a small hook attaching it to the door - you need to be careful to avoid breaking the pocket hook (if you break it, just epoxy it back on), and the door lock needs to be un-screwed to allow the door panel to be lifted over it. Try to avoid tearing the plastic liner between the door and the panel because the plastic helps keep water off the door panel and, thus, avoid rotting cardboard caused by exposure to water (if it is torn use some duct tape to repair it). Then you can examine the window lift mechanism for damage (mine was broken, but the gear on yours could have a broken tooth on the gear, a track could be messed up, etc., etc.) and then the electric motor.

I may have overlooked something, I'm sure another member will reply with their suggestions.

I do not know if the electric lift motor can be rebuilt (I never tried as mine are all OK). Several places sell them or the local salvage yard may have one.

Hope this helps!
Good Luck!
Tom

__________________
America: Land of the Free!

1977 300D: 300,000+ miles

American Honda: Factory Trained Technician & Honor Grad.
Formerly:
Shop Foreman;
Technical Advisor to Am. Honda;
Supervisor of Maintenance largest tree care co. in US for offices in Tex.

There is one more thing that you can do if you have to wait for parts and you want to use the car and don't want to have the window down. Get a piece of 2x2 and cut it the correct length and put it under the window frame to hold window shut.
Bill

__________________
94 dodge cummings,86 ford 6.9,75 mbz 240d[ sold], 82 mbz 300sd,83 mbz 300sd

Darn! I knew I would forget to mention the 2x2!!

__________________
America: Land of the Free!

1977 300D: 300,000+ miles

American Honda: Factory Trained Technician & Honor Grad.
Formerly:
Shop Foreman;
Technical Advisor to Am. Honda;
Supervisor of Maintenance largest tree care co. in US for offices in Tex.

That would look a darn sight better than all the tape that is sealing the gap up, at present. So; Wood It Is...for now.