Exploded or transparent view of ignition housing unit?? 1981 300D - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

showme · #1 01-26-2011, 11:11 AM

I've already got a post on here about my ignition switch problem, and I'm trying to narrow the parts list that I need down, but I'd like to find out what the mechanical insides of the ignition\steering lock housing looks like so I can troubleshoot where exactly the problem lies. I don't want to buy a new housing if its a switch problem, and vice-versa. Anybody have any pics or drawings of what's inside of the housing itself?? Thanks for any replies.

toomany MBZ · #2 01-26-2011, 12:23 PM

The pics may or may not help.

showme · #3 01-26-2011, 03:45 PM

Thanks for the pics, tmmbz, but what I'm really wanting to see is what's inside of the housing, like what moving parts are in there. Just curious about what might be going on in there between the tumbler and the actual switch. I still can't get the darn wiring plug off the back side of the switch. Tried all positions per the key\tumbler, but it's just not releasing it. I can't figure what could be holding that thing on. Since it's hanging under the dash, it's a bear to get decent leverage anyway, especially by myself. I'm pretty sure the housing is worn, but I've got to get it disconnected before I can even check it out, much less put a new one on. Thank you, though! Anybody else?

whunter · #4 01-26-2011, 05:11 PM

You set the key in position #2, and the wire harness connector comes off.

If the wire harness will not come off = the steering lock mechanism is JUNK = breaking/cutting the electric switch to preserve the harness.

I replace these three parts every time.

Fastlane: Ignition Lock Cover
http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1622651

Fastlane: Ignition Lock Cylinder - W/ Lock Undefined
http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1615412

Fastlane: Ignition Lock Housing, FYI: this comes with a NEW switch..
http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1605516

Ignition Cylinder Tumbler replacement + Key issues; mixed diesel/gas
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/142232-ignition-cylinder-tumbler-replacement%3B-mixed-diesel-gas.html#post1065596

.

showme · #5 01-26-2011, 07:38 PM

Thanks, whunter, that's kind of what I was afraid of.
I went out today and tried turning the inner (connecting) part of the housing to what I believe is all positions, then put the tumbler back on with the barrel ring to make sure I was in the right spot, but no go.
I was questioning my puniness for a while.
It seems to rock to one side or the other, but doesn't come out.
I've had problems in the past with starting, shutting down and having to manually return the key to the I position after getting it started in the II position.
Money is tighter than a gnats ass at our house right now, so I'm just screwed for the time being unless I can find a way to get it working temporarily.
I was trying to figure out how I was going to get the vac pump corrected before this happened, so this is bad on bad.
Thanks for the definite answer, though.
I had a pair of vice grips on the plug today while I was turning the key to each position.
Just the fact that it turns so far past the point of actuating the starter seemed to be an indicator that the guts of the housing was bad.
That's why I wanted to see what was inside of it, hoping that maybe it's movement depended on the actual switch behind it.
The idea of cutting the thing off had crossed my mind (the housing, not the plug).
But I hate to even think about that in case the switch itself is still good.
But if there's no other way to get it off, then that's what I'll have to do.
But it will have to curb-sit for a little while.
Thanks for the info and at least ending my head scratching episode.
I'd rather know what I'm facing, good or bad, than not know what the answer is.

Diesel911 · #6 01-26-2011, 08:31 PM

I have read both of your threads and I don not recall you mentioning you remved any Screws; I have assumed that you removed the 3 screws that hold the Ignition Switch (the Switch no the Key Tumbler) to the housing the the Housing.

I can also remember a Thread where one of the member said; with the Key Tumbler out you can reach into the Steering Colum Lock with a Needle Nose Pliers or something and rotate and rotate the central shaft tha actuates the Steering Wheel Lock. He sand if it does not work without the key tumbler the Steering Wheel Lock is no good.

The reason there is no exploded view of the Steering Colum Lock is because it is sold as an assembly.

showme · #7 01-26-2011, 08:49 PM

From what I can see, the electrical plug in has to be removed to get to those 3 screws.
They screw in from the forward side, and their heads are covered until the rubber connector is pulled out.
The column lock isn't stuck, it moves in and out OK.
I can turn the interior of the housing, but it keeps turning almost 360*, so the tumbler, which is the one thing I've replaced since I've had the car, apparently isn't bad.
At one point of messing with the housing interior, the column lock "trigger" (for lack of a better description) was moved far enough to the side that I could see a spring behind it, but I didn't want to stick anything down in there and screw it up, too.
I think what he was saying about the needle nose pliers is what I was doing with a screw driver.
It is possible to turn the mechanism inside the housing and lock or unlock the column bolt.
But I wouldn't think it should be able to turn past the usual point of ignition, which is able to do, with or without the tumbler in it.
But, per the screw heads, they're covered by the wiring harness black rubber\plastic(?) head that I can't get out.
I'm trying to get it out so I can check and see if the switch itself is shot, and allowing the whole thing to turn past it's starting point.
If that's the case, the housing may still be good and I would only need a new switch, which I would screw onto the back of the housing with those 3 screws we were talking about.

Diesel911 · #8 01-27-2011, 01:46 AM

It looks like you could have one of 2 possible Ignition Switches.
In the pic on the left it looks like there may be a Central Screw retaining the Wire Connector; at least there is a hole in the center of the Ignition Switch for something.

In the pic on the right it looks like this is the Ignition Switch that needs to have that inside slotted part turned in a certain positon in order for the Wire Connector to come off.

I could not find a pic of the Wire Connector to see if there is any sort of screw that would retain it.

soothappens · #9 01-27-2011, 02:32 AM

Here's the internals of my 81 300SD ignition housing.
Not sure if the housing is the same but the inner portion works on the same principal.

Steering lock repair

showme · #10 01-27-2011, 09:43 AM

Thanks for those pics, soothappens! That's the thing I was most curious about, and you answered the question of "what's in there?". As I said before, my steering lock, fortunately, isn't the problem on mine. I need to find out why the electrical plug on the back of the housing isn't releasing from the housing itself. It looks like, from what I can see, that the {-O-} type keyway connection is just an insert type that would slide right out, not a locking T that would hold it in, which is really stumping me. But thanks VERY much for letting me see it. Your pics are great, and I've been tempted to take mine apart just to see what you just showed me. It explains the spring that I'm seeing behind the triangular 'trigger' thing, only now that I think of it, it looks like my spring may be turned 90 degrees, in that, I think mine is laying 'across' the width of the tube instead of parallel to it. (Hope that makes sense) In other words, it looks like it's crossways instead of longways. Regardless, I'm pretty sure that, like whunter says, the housing has gone south. My main problem now is "How the hell do I get the plug off??" whunter may have the only solution, which for me would be to get the sawzall out, build a small frame for a brace and jig on the floor board and amputate the housing from the plug. It's almost like my trusted old Benz senses it's possible sale, and is doing everything it can to stall me out of the idea. Hmm. Maybe I do own a "smart car"!

whunter · #11 01-27-2011, 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by showme

Thanks for those pics, soothappens!
That's the thing I was most curious about, and you answered the question of "what's in there?".

As I said before, my steering lock, fortunately, isn't the problem on mine.

I need to find out why the electrical plug on the back of the housing isn't releasing from the housing itself.

It looks like, from what I can see, that the {-O-} type key-way connection is just an insert type that would slide right out, not a locking T that would hold it in, which is really stumping me.

But thanks VERY much for letting me see it. Your pics are great, and I've been tempted to take mine apart just to see what you just showed me.

It explains the spring that I'm seeing behind the triangular 'trigger' thing, only now that I think of it, it looks like my spring may be turned 90 degrees, in that, I think mine is laying 'across' the width of the tube instead of parallel to it.

(Hope that makes sense) In other words, it looks like it's crossway's instead of longways.

Regardless, I'm pretty sure that, like whunter says, the housing has gone south.

My main problem now is "How the hell do I get the plug off??" whunter may have the only solution, which for me would be to get the sawzall out, build a small frame for a brace and jig on the floor board and amputate the housing from the plug. It's almost like my trusted old Benz senses it's possible sale, and is doing everything it can to stall me out of the idea.

Hmm.

Maybe I do own a "smart car"!

As stated, the new assembly comes with a new switch = no loss to cut through the old switch freeing the wire harness.

showme · #12 01-27-2011, 08:15 PM

Thanks, whunter. Do you have any idea how deep the electrical connector sets into the switch housing? I'd hate to accidently cut into the part I'm trying to save.

whunter · #13 01-27-2011, 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by showme

Thanks, whunter. Do you have any idea how deep the electrical connector sets into the switch housing? I'd hate to accidentally cut into the part I'm trying to save.

Look at the pictures in post #8 = the pin section must be saved/avoided.

Yak · #14 01-27-2011, 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by showme

Thanks, whunter. Do you have any idea how deep the electrical connector sets into the switch housing? I'd hate to accidently cut into the part I'm trying to save.

If you're buying a new housing, can you just cut through the housing just behind where the three screws fit through? That should release the switch shown in post 8. Cutting at that point appears like it would not affect the plastic/rubber connector that is currently stuck.

That should also expose the option to rotate the switch portion just beneath the part number in View 2, since your connector is still somehow stuck to that switch.

Maybe a Dremel with cutting wheel instead of a sawzall for better control? And towels/rags/drop cloth or you'll have filings everywhere.