Hello All--

What tools will I need to replace both my inner and outer rear bearings on my 1980 (w116) 300SD?

I've read somewhere that there is some kind of bearing puller/extractor that I'll need.

Thanks for your help!!

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1973 280 - Sold
1980 300SD - Sold
1982 240D - Stolen
1988 300E - Sold
1989 260E - Sold
1989 560SEL
1994 E420 - Sold
1997 E420
2005 CL500

There is this DIY, but for the W123 - W126. probably the same procedure.
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123RearWheelBearings

I replaced mine with a set of lower milage rear Trailing Arms.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I would not try to use a Punch to Punch out the Rear Hub. I have read of this expanding the threaded area on the Hub where the slotted Retaining Nut threads on.

I recently removed a Rear Wheel Hub (in case I need it later) on a 123 from my Old cracked Rear Trailing Arm.
The Manual calls for a large Slide Hammer and Something that mounts to the Hub to hook the Slide Hammer on to.
I did not have that or want to take the time to make something so I used (idea from an old thread) an old Brake Rotor reversed and some short Bolts (short enough that you can rotate the Hub) and used a Big Hammer to beat on the Rotor until the hub came out.

Doing the above damages both inner and outer Bearings. If you have not punched a Bearing Race out before I would use a Brass Punch to avoid damageing the Bearing Housing.

I was able to use a Punch going through the opposite side to knock out the Bearing Races.
If you have not Punced a Bearing Race out before I would use a Brass Punch in order not to damage the Bearing Housing.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

In the previous post #3 I mentioned a cracked Trailing Arm. The cracked Arm was replaced with a used Trailing Arm of unknow milage over 2 years ago and I have had no prblems with it.
So while replacing the Trailing Arm with a used one is a little bit of a Gamble there is a lot less labor involved.

In Post #3 I wanted to keep the Hub from the Cracked Trailing Arm after I found out that they could be Damaged removing them (like I said do not try to punch out the Hub as it has in one of the threads) and a new hub is $265-$300+.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Here is a pic of the Factory Slide Hammer and attachment Plate to pull the Hub.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Similar big slide hammers for pulling axles used to pretty common,if your local parts stores dont have one in their rental program check around with some of the older mechanics around town. Don

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Red Green "This is only temporary,Unless it works!"

97 E300D 157000 miles
87 300TD ?141k? miles

Autozone had a Free Rental 5 pound Slide hammer threaded for 5/8"x18; but, that does not help you without the plate to attach to the Hub threaded for the same Slide Hammer.
The Plate would have to be home made from scratch or an old Brake Rotor would have to be used to make it with some Welding.
In my case I felt it was easier just to reverse the Brake Rotor and beat the Hub out as is done in the DIY thread than to make a plate. Another factor was that my Trailing Arm was no longer on the Car; and without being firmly attached to something the slide Hammer would not have worked well.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel