1. $
2. $
3. $
4. $
5. $

Stiffer coil springs/lowering springs
Stiffer anti roll bar(s)
Polyurethane suspension bushings
Lower profile tires
Less weight/lower center of gravity
drive your mercedes slower, it is a mercedes

which bushing will decrease the roll the most?

So the #1 improvement will be from new stiffer springs.

Anti-roll bars will decrease the body roll the most, Stiffer/shorter side wall tires will decrease the sensation of body roll allot, if you do bushings you normally do them all, Stiffer springs will not reduce roll only slow it unless they are lowering springs then they would drop your center of gravity.

um... why do you wonder? specific reason? or are you just curious?

my 300cd coupe with only 14k miles rolls on sharp turns. I will go to lower springs and new lower profile tires and wonder if that alone will be enough.


not sure what bushings to change. All of them doesnt clear up what bushings to change will decrease roll.

sway bar bushings, sway bar end link bushings, shock bushings, and control arm bushings are all options. Im not sure what options are available for mercedes but if you can get them it is rather labor intensive and unless one of the originals has failed will probably be the smallest gain.

Is it like this? ranking on 20 star system.

20 points new sway bars $500-1000

9 points lowering car because this lowers center of gravity not because springs will stop the roll. stiffer will only slow the roll.

6 points. lower profile tires because lower center of gravity and less give to tires.

2 points new shock absorbers will only slow roll. 2 new bilstein Hds 140 each plus installation and new bushings. $400 dollars.
new shock absorber bushing will have ? effect but this is easy to get at so cheap to do or are the shock absorber bushing cheap also.

1 point. new bushings only if broken expensive change for control arm bushings.
sway bar bushings only if change sway bar.


I have 30 year old bilstein comforts (stock i believe) and i was going to change to bilstein Hd to decrease the roll and handling. But it might be better to keep them and spend the money on sway bars.
i think my shocks dont bounce when i push on a corner.
somehow i think i will get more than 2 points return on my ride if i change the front comforts to hds. Is 6 points for new hds in front more accurate???

Thank you.

on your car here is the order I would follow. and judge the performance changes before moving to the next step.
1. inspect or have a handling oriented shop inspect all your rubber body mounts and bushings. replace anything that is worn/aged. some pull all the rubber, and replace with urethane, or aluminum.
2. replace the shocks with HD's
3. change to larger wheels with lower profile tires. 17" wheels with 35 ar tires would do nicely.
4. replace both front and rear swaybars. you may have to go aftermarket or actually have one built to get the roll under control if the above was not sufficient...
5. install control arm travel limiters... not for the street...

__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

that I wonder.

If my bilsteins comforts are low mileage and the car doesnt bounce more than once.

then shouldnt i skip buying shocks and go right to the biggest roll help which is thicker sway bars.

if your were only to do one sways or HDs in front, at least for now, which one would you do.

nope. I'd do it in the order I listed. each will incrementally improve the body roll. sway bar is a large expense. rubber mounts, and shocks will make a big improvement. tires will make a big improvement in feel of the road.
for which end to work most... you'd have to consult a road racer... too stiff a rear bar can affect handling badly... it's gotta be balanced, although I think the stock 123 bar is pretty wimpy in the rear...

__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

w123 wagon sway bars are thicker by 2mm vs the sedan/coupe sway bars- that will help. Replacing the whole front sway bar is close to a 20 hour job. Vogtland springs were the stuff to buy a bit back- they lower and are stiffer. I still have the rear set in my garage because I have only wagons- and wagons rear end has the SLS- which I do not want to mess with.

I have heard that a w126 rear bar will help alot.

__________________
1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran, deutschland deutschland uber alles uber alles in der welt

... I'd not think a 126 bar would fit... the axles are 1.5" wider each... that's 3" more between the rotors...
does anybody know if they will fit?
I have heard the TD/Wagon rear bars are 15mm instead of the sedan's 13mm

since it takes 20 hrs to change the front swaybar, it would be a very costly change if add up labor and cost front sway bar.

Changing the rears to 15 mm is okay to do if you leave the fronts in?

Changing the rears will decrease the front roll also.