All MB Diesel drivers,

Thought I would put this poll thing to good use.

Background info:

I have a 1987 300TD with 241kmi that I've owned for 18 months and 30kmi. The car is exactly right for the family (third seat, wagon, diesel). The body though not perfect is relatively rust free (some flaking at the jack mount points and a thin ring around the hatch key hole).

I've already fixed the serp belt tensionor, rear accumulators, front struts and drag links, fuel pump shut-off, and glow plugs.

My mechanic believes that the head is cracked, the trans leaks oil and a rear bearing is shot. Let's round it all up to $4.5K total.

Here's the question: Is my own head cracked to spend this much money? Or should I suffer driving Ford rentals while I wait years for another?

Yes or No.

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-Mike
'87 300TD 304kmi (RIP)
'95 Toyota Camry Wagon 125kmi

You can find a used 87 wagon with lower mileage in that price range. Use the head and then the rest of the car as a parts car.

Bo,

Any leads on such a car are welcome. My experience is that they all start at $8K. Thanks,

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-Mike
'87 300TD 304kmi (RIP)
'95 Toyota Camry Wagon 125kmi

I have no leads now as I am not looking.

But I was able to find mine (see my Signiture) in November in that price range. A hard find, though. Took me about a year.

Well, Bo, what about yours. Willing to give it up in that price range? Seems you have more vehicles than you really need.

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-Mike
'87 300TD 304kmi (RIP)
'95 Toyota Camry Wagon 125kmi

I am willing to give up the 91 300E, not the 300TD.

I have two peole offered me $2k above what I paid for the wagon after they drove the wagon.

So far I have put in about $150 worth of work. All fluids, filters, etc.

Sorry.

That's a great car-if you like that particular car except for its engine woes, then I suggest you keep it.

I have an '88 TE, and last year I had the jack mounts properly redone-don't think they'll ever rust again, but that's because luckily I caught the problem earlyI had them painted with rubberized paint by a pro.

As to the motor, can't you get a short block for around that price? Then you'd have a warranteed motor. And resealing the trans while the motor's out is a relatively cheap affair, as it adds minimal labor (don't forget to re-seal the front pump).

Good luck!

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"If God had meant for us to walk, why did he give us feet that fit car pedals?" Sir Sterling Moss

Michael
2014 E63S Estate
2006 SLK55
1995 E500
1986 Porsche 944 turbo

Msyoder,

With the mileage on your engine, I would go for rebuilt long block ( not a short block) or a good used engine and another mechanic that doesn't charge $100+ an hour.

That way you will get a warranty on the entire engine which you won't get by just replacing the head.

You might start looking for another MB that you would like to own. Have you looked at Ebay, that's where I bought my last 2 cars. My philosophy is to buy a car before I need it so when I do need it I already have it and I am not in a bind to find one in a hurry.

P E H

P E H,

I gather that a long block is from the head down?

My mechanic's labor is $79, but perhaps they work slowly. He says this job is 20+ hrs. (including the front crankshaft seal). This is more than I saw posted on another thread. (3-4 for seal and 6-10 for head) He want's another $100 to do the timing chain, rails and tensioner.

As for owning multiple vehicles (parts car, etc.) that is out of the question. I live in Manhattan and the rent to park it would $200+ per month.

Could park it in my Dad's WV yard (with his eight Saabs!)

What kind of guarantee would the long block have?

Thanks,

__________________
-Mike
'87 300TD 304kmi (RIP)
'95 Toyota Camry Wagon 125kmi

Just got off the phone with Tom Hanson of Caliber motors. He says there is no long block sold for this engine.

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-Mike
'87 300TD 304kmi (RIP)
'95 Toyota Camry Wagon 125kmi

What I meant by a long block is one that includes the head with all the valves and camshaft , injectors and all the internal parts in the block such as pistons, oil pump, crankshaft, ETC. A short block might not include the head and associated parts. An independent rebuilder should be able to supply you with a long block as I described it.
There is also the possibility a a good low milage used engine.

P E H

I would get a second opinion on the head.that model unlike some of the later ones is not known for head problems.Second a head is not a very difficult job.You can buy a used one do what you have to do to it and install.Good luck.Michael

A rebuilt "long block" (basically a whole new engine) with warranty is quite expensive - about $7500. One of the reputable rebuilders has a website - check http://www.mercedesengines.com I suspect pricing is similar from other rebuilders and MB itself. Add shipping and installation; you're looking at 10 grand to fix it.

It isn't worth putting that kind of money into this car.

I vote for pulling the head, inspecting it, and then deciding what to do. Sometimes a cracked head can be repaired, though I understand that is rare with the OM603. A new, updated head casting is about $2K. That's probably your best bet. Considering that 250K miles isn't all that much on one of these engines, I vote for a new head , then you'll be good to go for another 100K miles.

thanks tx for putting me straight.I was judgeing it by my 80 wagon.

As suspected the head is cracked. Now off to the parts suppliers for parts. Here's the list of things I'm going to change:

New head (to get the redesigned one)
Timing chain
Timing chain rails
Timing chain tensioner
Cooling system hoses
Valve cover casket
Breather hose grommet

Already done:

Glow plugs
Fuel pump shut-off valve

Did I miss something important?

Thanks,

__________________
-Mike
'87 300TD 304kmi (RIP)
'95 Toyota Camry Wagon 125kmi