First of all I have done the search Cooling System: but I do not quite get a straight forward instruction for the water pump repair.

The car is a 1983 300D NOT a California model.

Please also be easy on me as I just started doing a lot of bigger repairs myself. I can comprehend but just a newbie wrench who did not have cars growing up. My experience on this car are, replacing the fuel lines, transmission filter. oil and fuel filters, brake caliper replacement.

After being quoted 3-5 hours to replace this pump, I would like to do it myself.

I am loosing coolant and it is getting worse. There are no rips in the hoses leading in and out of the radiator or thermostat hosuing or coolant coming out of reservoir. The symptom is that the lip of the oil pan cover seemss to be weeping coolant but then it is really from coolant coming from the top. From what I've read that could be either the water pump gasket or the weep hole but I cannot visually inspect those.

Is there any other hose that I could inspect before assuming it is really the water pump

Here are the steps as I understand

1. Drain the engine coolant. That seems easy anything I should be aware of?
2. Remove the radiator necessary or not? If yes what to watch out for regarding the oil cooler brackets? How delicate is the plastic?
3. Remove the fans - does my engine need the grounded box wrenches?
4. How do I remove the belts. Does everything come off.
5. Pulley, Do I need a special tool to extract it. I heard discussions about a fan clutch. Does my engine even have one?
6. I am reading various post on the difficulty on removing the pump itself. There were some post on dremelling something that obstruct tools.
7. Once the pump is out, should I just replace it? I am still getting heat and the car runs at about 100 F or less, so maybe my impeller is good? My coolant loss is about 1/2 - 1 cup after driving and taking the temp up. Initial starting or refilling the reservoir does not equal to coolant leaking only at temperature above 60 F. I also get more of the leak when I have filled the reservoir.

A link to the pictures or illustrations would really be helpful.

I apologize for being dumb about this but I have never replaced a waterpump before. I may also NOT be searching properly.

Thanks

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Stuck on older cars
1983 W123 Sedan 300D Diesel Federal

An inspection mirror and a flashlight should reveal the telltale trail of the coolant coming from the weep hole. It's almost certainly a leak from the pump. You do have a fan clutch. You do need the ground down 10mm wrench. You do need to replace the pump. You do NOT need to remove the radiator, just the shroud. You only need to loosen the belts that go over the water pump pulley.
That was probably my post about dremmeling. That applies to the early 123's with the AC compressor high on right side of engine. Should not be necessary on your model.
Whoever said 3-5 hrs was looking to rip you off. I'd say it's about a 2hr job under most circumstances.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

1. Drain the coolant via the plug in the bottom of the radiator. But be ready when you pull the water pump as more coolant will come out.

2. There is no need to remove the radiator, there is plenty of room once the fan is out.

3. Ground wrenches will reduce your risk of stripping the bolt head. They aren't always needed, but a good idea.

4. The alternator and PS pump have adjusting bolts that allow you to slacken the belt and remove it. Once you loosen the bolts you can back off the adjusting bolt and remove the belts. It's been a while but I believe the AC compressor is the same.

5. The pulley will come right off by hand or a gentle tap with a hammer.

6. The biggest issue with getting the pump off it rusted bolts. The blocked tools refers to the waterpump housing. The harmonic balancer gets in the way on the older 123s and the 115s. But the newer models have a notch in the balancer that allows you to get the lowest bolt on the housing. You just have to rotate the engine properly to get to the notch.

7. I would just replace it. Especially if you can't determine if the gasket is leaking or the pump itself. A leaky pump is a bad pump. Using compressed air to pressurize the cooling system is a good way to find leaks without the engine running.

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Don't forget to check the condition of the bypass hose while you're in there. I can also be a source of your leak.

I didn't need to grind down my wrench to get my fan off...

Pretty sure you don't need to mess with the power steering belt.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Folks! Thank you, Thank you, Thank you. Everything make sense after these replies and I looked at it again. More stuff to do during Christmas break

And it does not look daunting now.

Ordering the pump and gaskets from PP. I hope the housing is till okay

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Stuck on older cars
1983 W123 Sedan 300D Diesel Federal

The housing is only really prone to corrosion. And maybe cracks. They are spendy for new ones. When I did my wagon's pump a while back I didn't even touch the housing. Just pulled the pump and replaced it and the gasket.

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