Change tie rods in pairs or not? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

byronnash · #1 10-20-2010, 10:54 AM

I'm finishing up a series of repairs on my front end/steering. Upper Control Arms, Steering Damper, Idler Arm Rebuild, Drag Link, and tie rods. I have one tie rod left. The right side tie rod was visibly bad so I changed it. The left side looks ok, no torn or cracked boots. I had my wife rock the steering wheel back and forth while I watched for play. I'm no expert, but they did not seem to move. Is it good practice to change them at the same time or just when they need it?

vstech · #2 10-20-2010, 10:57 AM

I'd just change what's bad.
then of course set toe in, or have an alignment done.

oh, I got my spring compressor now!

byronnash · #3 10-20-2010, 11:01 AM

I need to setup and get the toe in adjusted ASAP. I did have bad toe in, after tweaking a little the other night now I have toe out.

That's good that you got your spring compressor. I think my LCA bushings are shot unfortunately. I'll post some photos soon for a diagnosis.

Fattyman · #4 10-20-2010, 11:12 AM

I'll have to disagree with Vtech on this one.

You have changed the other side because it was no good. How much life do you think the "good side " has left in it. You're there already and Murphy's law is just waiting to come into play. I have seen it happen too many times. You're going to have to get it aligned anyway so why pay for that twice? That's my 2 cents.

pawoSD · #5 10-20-2010, 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fattyman

I'll have to disagree with Vtech on this one.

You have changed the other side because it was no good. How much life do you think the "good side " has left in it. You're there already and Murphy's law is just waiting to come into play. I have seen it happen too many times. You're going to have to get it aligned anyway so why pay for that twice? That's my 2 cents.

I second this, a tie rod costs a lot less than an alignment!

byronnash · #6 10-20-2010, 11:38 AM

I was planning on just doing the alignment in my driveway. But, since I still have the ball joint puller kit on loan, I might as well swap it out now.

pawoSD · #7 10-20-2010, 11:53 AM

I hope you used good german made tie rods and not the china junk floating around out there. Or you might be back at it again next year.

byronnash · #8 10-20-2010, 11:59 AM

They are from peachparts(fastlane or allparts) so I assume they are good.

pawoSD · #9 10-20-2010, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by byronnash

They are from peachparts(fastlane or allparts) so I assume they are good.

If they are lemfoerder then they are good.....

MBeige · #10 10-20-2010, 03:12 PM

What's the difference between the left hand thread and right hand thread tie rods? One for a specific side of the vehicle or what?

Also why do some cars have the long tie rod ends (short adjustment "rods") and some have short tie rod ends (long adjustment "rods")?

JB3 · #11 10-20-2010, 03:28 PM

tie rods do not need to be replaced in pairs.

its A. plausible to get another 50,000 miles out the existing one on the opposite side, and B. its just about the easiest piece of the front suspension to change, so if you do need to replace it, wont be hard later to do it. I did one when I bought an 83 because a boot was ripped and it was loose, and never replaced the other one for the rest of the time I owned the car. It was still good when I sold it.

Id only replace the one in question, and inspect the boots of the other one like you have. If its good and still tight, there is no reason to change it at this time.

pawoSD · #12 10-20-2010, 03:37 PM

You can't just replace them, the car needs to be aligned afterward. Its impossible to get the new one exactly the same length as the old one.

JB3 · #13 10-20-2010, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

You can't just replace them, the car needs to be aligned afterward. Its impossible to get the new one exactly the same length as the old one.

hes probably going to do that anyway, what with everything else hes added.

If the original rods not bent, you can measure carefully and get the new one really close though in lieu of or before an alignment. Ive done that before, I did not notice exceptional tire wear and any pull after. I ended up doing a driveway alignment a few thousand miles later when i got "new" tires.

Was a PITA though at the time because the replacement rod end was a different casting shape than original. I had to measure from the base of the tapered cone part of the threaded post after I had squared them on the new and old.

Counting the turns or threads would not have worked with the oddball castings

wrench56 · #14 10-20-2010, 11:46 PM

I agree with Fattyman, Murphy's Law is a Mother and don't mess with Mrs. Murphy!! if you replace one tierod or tierod end, the front end needs aligned. Why pay for an alignment twice to save a few bucks by not replacing both sides. I am in the process of replacing tierods and sway bar links on my '94 S350D. As soon as that's done, it's down to the tire shop for alignment. That is if the radiator shows up and I find the seal driver for the front hub seals before the front end parts show up.
Wayne

vstech · #15 10-20-2010, 11:55 PM

I've seen the tie rods in question.
one has been replaced recently, and it's in fine condition.
the other one is ripped, and needs replacement.
that's why I recommended only to replace the bad one.

or I could be thinking of another car...