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#31
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Hi Jan,
The European non turbo 300Ds (or 240Ds etc) didn't have tachometers. So you won't see much official information about them. If you look in the FSM you might get some joy for the turbo chassis numbers (for example 123.133 or 123.190 - don't bother looking at too much stuff past about 1983 because they started to put in "computers" <= I use the term very loosely!) The plug on the end of the sensor does indeed go to the amp and the amp then has a plug that goes to the gauge and then there's got to be some sort of modification to give it power (which some people take from / tap off from the glow plug supply). Please note:- I still haven't finished this project yet. The car is still in bits (and might get scrapped if things don't improve here). Oh I've just had a thought. There's a Dutch forum member who had a tachometer on his W123 200D (for his privacy please send me a PM if you want his name!) that used a bit of wizardry to take a signal from the alternator. Apparently these were for sale on ebay at one time.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#32
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This may be of help to this thread:
Installing a tach in a w126 diesel
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2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily 2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily 1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended 1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper 1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL 2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped 1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above 1992 BMW 525i -traded in 1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103 1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one 1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold |
#33
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For what its worth:
I had the motor out of my (diesel 6.2) Blazer and while out I made a bracket (using a water pump bolt) to mount the sensor (123 from Ecology wreckers) at harmonic balancer before re-installing engine. Mounted amp (same place as MB!), Works perfectly!! On power from glow plug relay, clock power from batt with fuse. Its not @ tdc, I didnt want to modify the timing probe holder on the 6.2. -corne- |
#34
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The 200D, 240D and N/A 300D had a bracket to install the pickup on the crankshaft. If you wanted a tachometer, you could install one, but you had to buy all the parts: tachometer pick-up, diagnostic plug, tach amp, wires, brackets. The power for the tachometer doesn’t come from the glow plugs, but from fuse 12.
The turbodiesels without a tachometer always had the pickup on the crankshaft and the diagnostic plug. If you wanted a tachometer, you had to buy a tach amp and a tachometer and the wires/plugs. For the USA this system was used until MY 1983. After that year the tachometer used a signal from the flywheel and from the EGR computer. The tachometer was different, because the signal is different. The EGR system also used the signal for controlling the EGR. In Europe no EGR was used, so the crankshaft sensor system was used until 1985, but not many people installed tachometers on their diesels. There is no problem to install a pre-1984 tachometer in a 1984-1985 USA W123 diesel, but you need the tach amp and some different wiring. I had a 200D with a tachometer which took the signal from the alternator. I bought it from ebay from a seller who could convert a tachometer for alternator use. You needed to make a W terminal on the alternator, but that is not that difficult. There might have been mechanical tachometers, which were driven from the oil pump drive, but I’m not sure. So there are: - crankshaft tachometer, on the back it says 6000 Imp - flywheel tachometer, on the back it says 14000 Hz - alternator tachometer, aftermarket, no indication, rare |
#35
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I get the feeling that they are meant for diagnostics only - something a mechanic would fit during a service but you wouldn't drive around with it fitted.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#36
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Nice, the resuscitation of the thread worked.
Wow what a forest still... Wonder what type my tach is. I will check if thereīs a bracket of some sort near the crankshaft. I have a 1986 W123 turbodiesel here which will be the donor for my current car. Nice motor. so before spending lotsa time n dimes to make it all work on the NA 300D, I will check out the stuff presented by Govert. Thanks! J. Ps: The idea for a tacho really came from changing the differential on my 300TD. It had a 3.92 diff under it and was kinda hysterical to drive over 90kms/hr since here in Norway they as a standard put 195 70 14 tires ( or 195 65 15) under this car. Changing to a 3.69 from a donor 300TD I found helped some, but still not good. The speedo was also way out. Now I redid the whole front end and rear subframe and used the 3.07 diff from the 300TDT. Kinda cool, never had a car where the speedo was spot on! The tires on the papers following the car are 185 HR 15, meaning 185 82 15 ( =100kg extra load-type rear axle). So youīre guessing right that itīs become all a game of juggling with numbers between diff, gearbox, tire sizes and rpms within the torque band. Fun yeah, but a tacho would really help sorting this out. Especially when the 617 turbo is moving in, so I can benefit from the boost from 2400 rpms, pulling trailers op these hills. For more anal analizing; I really like the dead on speedo now and the rpms are certainly allright. The big BUT is, sure enough...there is one, I want more clearance under the car and therefor preferably have the high tires in place again. Gives me a full 2.5 cm( 1 inch) extra. With these dubious backroads in honkytonk Norway my oilpan quit being happy. Someone having a spare skid-plate?? (or a G wagon for that matter lol...) learning...learning.. Last edited by degier; 12-12-2012 at 08:31 PM. |
#37
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Skid plate? Did I hear skid plate?
Have a look here Heads up cheap dealer part - W123 skid pan / skid plate If you are quick there might be some left - and they're quite cheap (for the dealer) - don't bother with the rubber bushings they come with the skid plate anyway (and if your's don't I'll send you my extra set if I can find them!) Nice information about the differential. I was wondering if a 3.07 would help. In the end the 300DTs were fitted with a 2.88 (just in case you're interested). For ride height => Mercedes actually fitted taller springs (and possibly spacers) with 15 inch wheels for countries with crappy road surfaces. Have a look at the FSM chapter 32-010 for all of the variations on the theme. The part numbers are listed but I'd be surprised if they are still available. Here in Holland they sell taxi springs "taxiveren". This guy is usually a good bloke to get in touch with Mercedes onderdelen voor iedereen | www.SterOnderdelen.nl I asked him recently for more information about the springs - he didn't send me all of the data I wanted though so I'll have to chase him up on that one... ...I'm a bit busy with other stuff at the moment though. If you do change the ride height, this thread might help you set the suspension up afterwards How I adjusted the toe in / out, camber and caster on my W123 300D
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#38
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Stretch,
Cool, but I canīt find the info on where to order the skid plate. I have a company registered. Maybe I can order myself...dunno. Otherwise my friend here in Trondheim. Yeah I was happy with the ī86 model 300TDT, but surprised it didnīt have the ī85 model 2.88 diff. Luckily the 185 HR 15 wheel-size possibility will take care of that. Then again...you should see the roads here. Forget the zooming about with 130 km/hr like in the sewer delta of Europe (The Netherlands). Thereīs a 10km bit of 100km/hr near Oslo the rest is some 90 bits, but mostly 80Km/hr intermittent with 70 60 50, and yes even 40 now with speed bumps, on the main E (european) type road through Norway!! I would be crying if it wasnīt such a joke. You should see those faces of the dutch tourists that come up here, ending up driving for days instead of enjoying their hard-earned holidays hahaha... Norway is so fizzing rich but with a road standard below the Albanian one. Anyways...sorry for the detour, point is...the 3.07 differential might just be fine for the driving here. Ok back to topic maybe? Oops.. Tacho, yeah... Edit: found the page at MB and checked with the local MB pusher. 395 kroner ( =54 euro) so its is ordered. Cheers. Last edited by degier; 12-13-2012 at 08:51 AM. Reason: update info |
#39
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Great I'm glad you got a skid plate for a good price - I got mine from "the dealer" you might hear about him being mentioned once in a while!
I don't worry about being off topic - as far as I'm concerned so long as it is kind of about cars then it is fine - and if you must butt heads about other topics then there's open discussion on this forum too... ...but let us know about how you get on with the tachometer!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#40
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Okidoki,
Now that I have done the front end, sub frame etc...maybe time I get hold of such a FSM... hahaha. No, serious, canīt find one as of yet. lol. Just had a 4 wheel alignment done, but thanks. The front springs have the car sitting 1 3/4 inch higher than standard. Like the north african 123s. Wonder how much it will sink after the motor-swap. I also put a 15mm rear sway bar under it and heavy duty bilsteins are waiting in the garage. Itīs just so cold Iīll wait a bit with that. -20 C is too much for monkeying about. Maybe the tach arrives before Norway shuts down for christmas. Now that would be worth ho-ing for. Jan. |
#41
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83 SD 84 CD |
#42
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This is great. Thank you.
Never came across this on my hours of searching, getting lured to download THE manual, and it turns out to be a Haynes. The laughs, the tears... See if there is a print button somewhere.. |
#43
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You're welcome, those are pdfs, so simply print 'em out.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#44
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Quote:
![]() The cable looks like a speedocable, but possibly the cable has nothing to do with the tachometer. The tachometer is an early Euro model, with a red line. |
#45
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I believe that's a gasser tach, different from a diesel?
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83 SD 84 CD |
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