I recently changed my timing chain with an IWIS brand chain. I measured the chain stretch with the indicator method and could not see any unusual stretch, 304,000 miles on odometer, but I changed it anyway beucause of the performance mods I have done. It is easy if you follow the the instructions that others have posted and you use the correct crimping tool.

did you change rails and tensioner?

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'85 300SD (formerly california emissions)
'08 Chevy Tahoe
'93 Ducati 900 SS
'79 Kawasaki KZ 650
'86 Kawasaki KX 250
'88 Kawasaki KDX200
'71 Hodaka Ace 100
'72 Triumph T100R

The rails looked finer, I did replace the tensioner.

Wow! those pictures of the different brands of timing chains really speak for themselves! Definatly something to keep in mind!

Diesel911; do you or anybody else know if there is an overhaul procedure for the vacuum pump? I'm not sure what drives it- the chain?

On my old one ton, the vacuum pump failed on me driving to work, and when I was headed home, some dumbass broad discovered that she just HAD to turn left, and flew across two lanes of traffic...and cut me off in the process. I rear ended the hell out of that car, and put her taillights into her back window- all cause my vacuum pump failed, and I had no power brakes. Total bummer; at least for her! My insurance didn't pay her!

I don't mean to hijack the thread, but since the discssion of possible VP failure leading to timing chain failure has come up, I'd be interested hearing if it's worth it to overhaul the vacuum pump while you're performing the timing chain R&R?

All of you guys have been so helpful to me on here, and I just wanted to say thanks again.

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1984 W123 300D turbo
1989 SRW F-350 Reg. cab 4X4 &7.3 w/ Banks turbo
1993 Cherokee 2dr 2wd w/ 4.0 L6
2007 20ft Tiger car hauler trailer

If you Vacuum Pump is one with a Piston the complete overhaul cost of parts is almost as much as a new Vacuum Pump and you end up with no warranty.
The kit that replaces the parts that would fall into the Engine when they fail is around $250; the kit of the Piston end is arond $65.

About 3 months ago there was a thread on just replacing the bearing on the drive arm (my name for it).

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I'm at 150k with no service records, stressing about the chain myself

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at 150K it's likely you are fine, but it's not difficult to check it. follow the procedure linked in post 5 or so and see if you need worry.

what car are you driving?

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

The procedure doesn't seem too hard

I'm driving a W126 SEC,
I know W126's have interference engines as well

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Yeah, SEC being a gasser, r and r process is different, of course. But if memory serves me correctly, they were plagued with chain issues at earlier mileage.

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Thanks,
Mark in NC

"Spark plugs?...We don't need no stinking spark plugs!"
1985 300SD "Der Silberne Schlitten" 420,000 mi


Wish these were diesel:
2003 Ford Club Wagon 130,000 mi

M117 at 150K miles is ripe for a new chain. I wouldn't wait.

Sixto
87 300D

Guides are the biggest issue on the V8s. M117 you can only go with OEM style, M116... Meyle has upgraded rails that pretty much do not fail.

This is what killed my old '86 420sel

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

Just wanted to relay my own experience with timing chain replacement--following dieselgiant's procedure, I was rolling in the new chain (with tensioner removed) and the links didn't match up on the cam! See photo below.

My buddy who was helping suggested the tensioner should take care of it, and sure enough it lined up just fine with tensioner installed--so don't worry about it if there's some slop before getting it buttoned back up.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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1980 300D (non-turbo, 421k miles)
1984 300TD (turbo, 305k miles)
1985 Vanagon (170k miles)

this is incorrect in my humble opinion

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Jim

If the Vacuum Pump has a good seal to it when it reaches the Max Vacuum the Piston stays push up or part way up held by the Vacuum and that Pivot/Folcrum Arm with the Bearing (I do not know the real name for it) is completely or partially not riding on the Lobes on the Timers. So it is either not moving or not moving very much.
If there is a Vacuum Leak the Piston and Arm are moving their full distance all of the time.

In a recent thread it was said that the later models have a Van type Vacuum Pump. On those it is always turning.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I had the W124 diesel vacuum pumps in mind. Mechanically they are running anytime the engine is running and it does not matter if it is loaded up or not.

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Jim