My first new Mercedes was a seventies 280S (6 cylinder gas with crappy carb). It was a bigger dawg than my 300D. It was tobacco, like your 240. No inflection, of course.

Is your EGR disconnected?

You must have misunderstood.

And no, it's not a 'real bad choice'.

Amsoil AME 15-40 HD Diesel and Marine oil is what's recommended for this motor. It has the high tbn numbers and good sulfer and phos levels.

Sawdust?

I didn't know it had a egr.

__________________
Chris Brown
"OC", So-Cal
1979 240D, 122K, 4spd, Colorado Biege w/Tobacco, Pwr Roof, AC, Cruise, Becker Corona - SOLD
Past Benzos: 71 250 • 83 240D • 84 190E • 04 C240 • 11 GLK350 • 13 c250 Coupe
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...ine=1276896801

Ill add my opinion/experience on the matter (everyone knows what they say about opinions).
From what I have read across many forums and from people if you have never changed the automatic transmission fluid on the car before never change it again, only top it off, the reason being that the transmission is well accustomed to the fluid in there and changing it can disrupt the functionality of the gears and trans fluid unlike power steering fluid is sealed in the trans and really never contact the outside environment whereas power steering fluid can suck up moisture.

On the other hand if the transmission fluid has been regularly changed (15k to 30k miles) then yes continue changing accordingly. I would bet that a car that has its fluid replaced on the regular will last much longer with a regular change.

Again it is all up to you though, keep doing your research.

__________________
Nosce Te Ipsum "Know thyself"

I have seen this too but it has no basis in logic. The assumption would be that the 'old' atf is what's holding the transmission together. Hogwash. And that burnt oxidized fluid with no lubricating properties left is better than new fluid. Some will say the new fluid with restored detergent properties will strip out what's holding the trans togther - that makes no sense either. If a slushbox fails after changing the fluid it was going to anyway. It's one of those cause and affect assumptions gone wrong.

A transmission doesn't become 'accustomed' to a fluid. It's a wear assembly that relies on the fluid to operate. Leaving worn out fluid in it doesn't help it.

A transmission doesn't fail from changing the fluid. It will fail if you fail to change it.


EDIT: I will say the one auto trans I ran to some length with amsoil atf was our '01 BMW 325 'vert. They don't even have a dipstick, it's a sealed unit. BMW says it has 'lifetime fluid'. Yeah right. That means the life expentency is about 100K miles, then it needs a rebuild. I changed the fluid, filter and flushed the TC by moot method at 75K, and it had about 115K when we sold it and worked perfectly. Most of those boxes go at 75-100K miles. And they're expensive. Everyone said, "Oh no, you can't use anything but petosin ATF in those!!" Whatev, huh?

__________________
Chris Brown
"OC", So-Cal
1979 240D, 122K, 4spd, Colorado Biege w/Tobacco, Pwr Roof, AC, Cruise, Becker Corona - SOLD
Past Benzos: 71 250 • 83 240D • 84 190E • 04 C240 • 11 GLK350 • 13 c250 Coupe
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...ine=1276896801

That is a big mistake.

When I bought my 240D, the trans oil had not been changed in years. It was black and it was watery, and it started slipping when taking off. I drove it back from Florida on the assumption that it would hardly shift at all, and I drove at 50-60 MPH.

When I got home, I took it to a transmission place, and they said my seals were dried up and it needed rebuilding. I went home and searched this and found a Lucas product; I think it was called transmission fix. If anyone needs the name, I can double check. I put 2/3 of a pint in and the slipping went away immediately. A couple of weeks later, I changed the trans oil and filter, and a month after that, I did the torque converter, the trans and filter (both times, Amsoil). The Amsoil support line indicated that all I probably needed was to put their trans fluid in. Their tech support is useful. In any case, it hasn't slipped in almost 3 years now. Trans oil should be changed every 25,000 or two years.

I can see this, however. Mercedes wants you to use a leather or total lint free cloth in checking the trans oil because the smallest particle can clog the small oil channels. If it hasn't been changed in a long time, I can see doing it gradually like I did. Partially drain (like a third) the trans and add fresh oil. I use the synthetic because it is better, and cleans better. Drive it for a week or two and do it again. Last time change the trans, torque converter and filter.

And CJ, Amsoil does not recommend that oil for my 240D. They specify 5W40 European motor oil. Diesel isn't in the name.

AMSOIL Online Product Application Guide BENZ+240D+A (copy and paste if necessary)

I even double checked this by calling Amsoil back when. In any case, it has been doing fine.

My 83 240D has an EGR valve on the intake manifold. There is a 3/8-1/2 inch hose coming off my valve cover, and it goes into an oil trap that is right in front of the "carb" and air filter. The EGR is regulated by a vacuum and electric according to the manual, but I do not fully understand the function. When I looked at this system, I replaced the air filter and looked at the carb. I have two worn linkage parts over there that are about $250 for the pair, and this kept throttle plate mostly closed all of the time. I was able to get it adjusted properly despite this.

If I were to continue with the EGR shut off, I probably should run a new hose off the oil trap aimed at the ground the way the older cars did (no trap, but came off the valve cover to vent the engine). I haven't done this because there is a great shop up in Milwaukee, but they will only work by the book, and hook it up again. If anyone needs their INJECTION PUMP rebuilt, these guys can do it.